stuart69427

Heat from Y-Pipe meltig my Fram X2 Oil Filter? It melted the two sensors attached to the oil filter two, but those were already like that when I bouht it. That is a brand new filter. I bought the small one that is supposed to go on our cars. I bought the X2 so I wouldn't have to change the filter next oil change, which is a thousand miles away... (I changed my filter and oil a month and a half ago, and I already have 2000 miles, having to go to school and drive far to work is a killer on miliage)

I know that one of the sensors is the oil pressure sending unit, what the other one? which is which?

What is a good exhuast shield wrap? Do I just buy the stuff from Summit? Which brand is the best?

Camar_Hunter_c

Well ignoring the possibility of the heat melting the oil filter case, Cause that s damn near impossible, unless Fram went to even cheaper methods of production. BUT FRAM IS JUNK.

TomP

You shouldn't buy the small filter, buy the PF-52 equivilant. Starting in '88 (isn't that your year??), GM stopped using the PF-47 (small) on the 2.8, and started specifying the PF-51. The PF-51 had problems with the anti-drainback valve, so it was replaced with the PF-52. (The PF52 is the fixed PF51.)

That goes for ALL our 2.8's, including the ones from 82-84. (And of course it's the same for the 3.1's.) With the larger filter, you get more filtering medium, which will keep the oil in better shape. You will need to put in 4.5 quarts instead of 4 quarts, though. The extra filter takes an extra 1/2 quart of oil. You should prefill the filter with oil before you install it. We can't fill it all the way because of the angle our filter goes on (the oil would pour out), but we can fill it up a bit.

And I really don't see how the heat would melt the filter. Aren't those the filters with the little grip coating at the end? Is that's what melting? Fram filters have degraded over the years... there was an oil filter study done by a guy named Russ. I can't find HIS page, but here's a link that has a copy of what he did: http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corve...lterstudy.html He got into some legal crap by posting his findings, so to get around it, he made a separate page, called "Conclusions" (the link is at the top), in which to post his findings. But avoid Fram... I used to use them, just because of the color, and now I go with either AC/Delco or Purolator.

The two sensors... one is oil pressure for either the dashboard gauge or the low pressure "idiot light". The other sensor is the fuel pump safety switch. This does not cut power to the fuel pump if oil pressure drops! Instead, it's a safety for the relay. As soon as there's oil pressure, this switch closes, and lets power get to the fuel pump, bypassing the relay.

The idiot light/gauge switch/sensor has one wire. The fuel pump safety switch has two wires.

Don't wrap your exhaust pipes, two reasons: 1, They speed up the rusting process of the pipes, since moisture gets trapped. 2, you can set your car on fire. There's a guy that used to be part of v6fbody.com, who now hangs out at camaroz28.com, his alias was 13secondv6, can't remember his real name, but... his engine caught fire!! He wrapped his headers, and the wrap caught fire one day. Oh yeah, his name is James. Anyway, stay away from the wrap.

You can buy replacement connectors for the oil pressure sensors from Pep Boys.

stuart69427

Thanks Tom...

Its the Black Grip stuff, its bubbling Guess I'm buying AC/Delco, I think I saw that Super Track Sells them PF-52 the AC Number or Fram? (The Dealer is a 40 minute Drive through rush hour traffic with idiot drivers, I can get to Super Trak, by Pepboys, im 5 minutes, So I'll check there. Like I said Only a thousand miles until I have to change again. I put 10W-30 in this time, should I do it again or put in 5W-30. I noticed a lot of peple using 10W-30 instead. I actually got it by mistake.

I dont think its just the connectors, cuased the entire casings on both sensors has melted off and the coils are exposed.

What if my pipes are already rusted No wait, I don't want fire... Then How do I keep those manifolds from melting all me ****, IE Spark Wires, Sensors, and all that crap?

WaynesRS

Im living proof FRAM is crapola ! When I blew my engine , they told me my filter was clogged . I dont use FRAM anymore . I use AC DELCO but PUROLATER is also REAL good to .

WaynesRS

Plugwires , use wire separators .
For your connectors and all that crapola , just make sure they aren't near the manifolds .

Camar_Hunter_c

Fram filters have no metal parts besides the case. All other parts inside are made of cardboard!.

stuart69427

that ain't good...

SSC

Just some interesting info, Dodge & fNord have recently discourged Fram filter use on "Powerstroke" (Thats what she said and other deisel engines because of filter medium failure/blockage causing severe damage.

WaynesRS

Wayne has recently discouraged using Fram filter on third gen f-bodys on all engines . Due to the crappy internal cardboard design , these can cause blockage of small particles and Fu(* your engine up Thats whyI strongly recommend Purolater or AC Delco , with these strong well built filters , you don't get the crappy cardboard filtration ! Do you want more than 170k miles out of your engine ? Pick Puroater or AC Delco for longer engine life and better filtration of oil . Pick Fram , if you'd like to be fu(*ed on the side of the road because of crappy cardboard internals .
Purolater , AC Delco available at your local auto parts stores , and Walmarts . Fram , I don't know where in the hell to buy that $hi* at !

But seriously SSC , that doesn't surprise me . Makes you wonder if the FRAM company is just making crappy filters from cheap materials to make major $$$$ .While the others put quality work in theirs .

KED85

IF I am correct, I believe Fram is part of Motorcraft Division of Ford.
KMART SELLING AC PF-52 for




$1.73 EACH BRAND NEW.




I bought a dozen!
Check to see if your local KMart is closing!
I GOT TONS OF GREAT STUFF FOR FREE!
Like I saved so much money buying stuff, I got a upright Battery Charger from Exide for free.
(I saved over $110 charger was $60! down from $100!).

Just reroute all the stuff away from the exhaust.
Use zip ties & anything.

TomP

I haven't been to a Kmart here in years for auto parts... they never carry my filters, they're always out of my oil- I gave up.

I thought Fram was part of Allied Signal, not Ford. Did they get sold again?

stuart69427

Well should I do my oil change early? I have 945 miles left to go. I do around 50 a day. Ok AC Delco makes PF-52, thanks for answering my question subconsciously...

Nobody hasn't said which oil is better... 5W-30 or 10W-30? Which bravh is the best? Defiantly Synthetic....

I am currently using Valvoline 10W-30 Syntehetic...

WaynesRS

Valvoline is pretty good oil , that's what my Uncle has gotten me started using . As far as the BEST for synthetics , I think MOBIL 1 is . Everytime you turn around in the TECH and even in here and someone is talking about synthetic oil they recommend MOBIL 1.
I myself am switching to Valvoline synthetic next semester because I dont wanna change brands . My Grandpa was a mechanic for awhile and even owned his own shop for awhile and he always said stick to the same oil , he said he had seen cars that were switched and sometimes , not all the time , they smoked after they had switched oils .Now this may be different with todays newer cars and computer controlled engines .

TomP

I went to Valvoline just because Kmart never had my Penzoil 10w30 in stock. Now they never have ANYTHING in stock, except for 10w40.

I used to run 5w30, then my dad suggested I use 10w30 to slow my oil leak. It worked, the oil leak slowed up quite a bit. (I'd find out later that it was the distributor o-ring.) Now that I've got no leak, I've kept the 10w30 in there. It doesn't get to sub-zero here that much, anyway.

stuart69427

i think I'll stick with Valvoline 10W-30, cuase I haven't seen any problems...

KED85

Change the oil 3K or so.
I like AC filters
I use any brand oil I can, as long as it's detergent oil.
I saw my 211,500 engine block without the intake, when I changed heads.
I was impressed. Spotless, no carbon build up at all.
I bought about 30-40 quarts of oil at $.65/each from the Kmart closing.
Exxon oil.
I got 5 cars.
I grabbed about 12 PF35 filters for the Wife's Camaro 68 6 cylinder, too.
I was lucky to find about 5 PF 25 filters for my 67 Camaro & 74 Corvette.
Tom, I think this location close by is an "unloading" location.
I'd never believed that I got all this stuff from Kmart

SSC

Yep, Fram seems more concerned with advertizing than making a good product. As far as I know Allied hasent sold out to anyone and they do make good air and fuel filters.




As far as oil and viscosity.

Depending on how many miles are on the engine 60K+ theres no reason not to switch to a thicker oil, its actually a good Idea to do so. The thicker oil has more viscosity "molocules are thicker so it lubricates better" and with increased engine wear the thicker oil protects better. So as far as GM engines are concerend 10w 30 a higher mileage engine would be better suited to run 15w 40 for summer use and 10w 30 for winter.

As far as Penzoil, Keds favorite brand Junk!!!!!!!! Penzoil uses a parafine "WAX" base for thier oil which leads to sludge buildup in the engine. I ve talked to many people in th T-G-E page about the sludge Ive seen in Penzoil engines, its not a good sight, But if you change oil on a regular basis its not as bad. Valvoline is the best dino juice IMO! As far as synthetic AMSOIL seems to be the best and I suggest you guys check out thier web page www.amsoil.com/ . The AMSOIL can be used for a year with 2 extra quarts and 2 filters. Of course with a 2.8, 3.1 or 3.4 that comes to 2 filters and 1 quart of oil on top of the 4.5 quarts it takes to fill the engine up the first time. Not too bad, a year of oil for $40.

Ah the joys!

KED85

I extracted my dead 2.8
I used any oil in that engine.
The oil valley area is spotless.
It seems the best answer is to just change your oil (3K or so) & keep the engine from overheating alot.
That's what I did for 211,500 miles.
Worked fine, too.

grimesjm1

Valvoline and Castrol are both good brands of oil. Pennzoil is terrible, as well as Quaker State. I know most people say every 3000 miles for oil change, I have went every 4000 for years now, with no problems. And I don't exactly baby cars, either.....

FAST RS

I like valvoline Max Life before i was using that i was using synthetic blend but when i went to the max lifge i didnt burn as much oil my oil looked cleaner longer it made a big difference in my car ive been using it since it first came out. Before i hada add a qt or 2 between oil changes now i barely have to add any

stuart69427

Yea, im going to use Valvoline 10W-30 Synthetic... only 600 miles to go (changing it religously )