sputter at idle, eratic
#1
sputter at idle, eratic
after driving when i come to a stop i can watch my tach bounce around for a second or two then it seems to smooth out. it has only stalled on me once though. i checked all the vacuum lines and theyre ok. anyone had this? the only codes i have are for a long standing problem w/ o2 sensors, rich. any thoughts.
#2
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Like mine ya need tune up & such.
Start with cap and rotor & go forward.
I know your mill is "secure" (not so aged).
It's the components that need freshing up (ignition system).
Follow by a new oxy sensor & ya good to go.
On my car, just changing oxy sensor was "the solution" for passing smog (along with new CC). I haven't done a tune up in about 15,000-20,000 miles.
Make sure you so have correct called for 3.4 plugs. Both my 3.4 engines came to me with 2.8 plugs in them.
Start with cap and rotor & go forward.
I know your mill is "secure" (not so aged).
It's the components that need freshing up (ignition system).
Follow by a new oxy sensor & ya good to go.
On my car, just changing oxy sensor was "the solution" for passing smog (along with new CC). I haven't done a tune up in about 15,000-20,000 miles.
Make sure you so have correct called for 3.4 plugs. Both my 3.4 engines came to me with 2.8 plugs in them.
#3
Seems like every week I have idling problems that seem to come and go. It has been this way for years. These computer management systems on the V6 cars are tempermental to say the least. Some days it will idle perfect for minutes on end sitting a a long traffic light continually stop and go all week long. next week it'll have a day or two that the dam thing feels like it wants to die if you sit at a light more than 15 seconds- seems like outside temperature has nothing to do with it.
Keep in mind that this car has everything perfect on it as for money spent on replacing a sensdor or such if it is thought to be faulty, yet the idle gremlins always come and go. I have written it off in the past as the crappy So Cal fuel we have, but my other cars are not affected by it-funny. We just have a poor tempermental coumputer management system.
To cure this, I just run my idle rpms at about 1100 rpms. When it ever acts up it will not bounce down any lower than about 800 rpms. Otherwise if it idles normal at 850 and then acts up, it will stumble down to 500 and dam near stall. There is no rhyme or reason for it, but it does it.
Vacuum lines are perfect, egr new, IAC new, TPS, O2, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ICM, PCV, new brake booster about 2 years ago (rpms unaffected by stepping on brake pedal), very hot coil in perfect shape, 140 amp coil, diehard gold battery two years old. The idle gremlins even before I installed the new motor about 4 years ago also (current motor was a brand new GM crate motor, now has about 40-45k on it). The two sensors I have not replaced on this car in the last 5 years are the IAT and the MAF
Keep in mind that this car has everything perfect on it as for money spent on replacing a sensdor or such if it is thought to be faulty, yet the idle gremlins always come and go. I have written it off in the past as the crappy So Cal fuel we have, but my other cars are not affected by it-funny. We just have a poor tempermental coumputer management system.
To cure this, I just run my idle rpms at about 1100 rpms. When it ever acts up it will not bounce down any lower than about 800 rpms. Otherwise if it idles normal at 850 and then acts up, it will stumble down to 500 and dam near stall. There is no rhyme or reason for it, but it does it.
Vacuum lines are perfect, egr new, IAC new, TPS, O2, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ICM, PCV, new brake booster about 2 years ago (rpms unaffected by stepping on brake pedal), very hot coil in perfect shape, 140 amp coil, diehard gold battery two years old. The idle gremlins even before I installed the new motor about 4 years ago also (current motor was a brand new GM crate motor, now has about 40-45k on it). The two sensors I have not replaced on this car in the last 5 years are the IAT and the MAF
Last edited by v6#21; 10-04-2005 at 11:30 AM.
#4
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
how old is your coil.
how old is the ICM in the distrib.
Describing the problems I had when one of these was bad. I replaced both at the same time.
how old is the ICM in the distrib.
Describing the problems I had when one of these was bad. I replaced both at the same time.
#6
cap, rotor, plugs, wires, ICM, coil, etc etc etc are all less than 2 years old at the most. i had the ICM go out last summer and that was not a fun time, two months later the coil died on me on the other side of the state in farm country, lol. it should be ok, the top end is coming down this winter for some working over and ill just replace all the vacuum lines then as well as any sensors that havent been yet. i didnt know you can get reman MAF sensors through GM for like $60 or $70. ill probably get one of those too since mine has occasionally thrown a code for it in the past, just not in a while.
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Here's all ya gotta do.
Spend the day doing a vacuum hose swap to new hoses and patch the old cracked lines.
Follow up by the final 1/2" THICK WALLED heater core hose swap for that main engine vacuum source, by distributor base.
That'll solve "all" the problems.
To access all hoses best, do the top end intake removal/flip.
Nurse back at end of day.
Been there after the swap.
It's necessary.
Pay attention to the EGR sensor set up. Lots of cracked aged hoses there, ya know!
Spend the day doing a vacuum hose swap to new hoses and patch the old cracked lines.
Follow up by the final 1/2" THICK WALLED heater core hose swap for that main engine vacuum source, by distributor base.
That'll solve "all" the problems.
To access all hoses best, do the top end intake removal/flip.
Nurse back at end of day.
Been there after the swap.
It's necessary.
Pay attention to the EGR sensor set up. Lots of cracked aged hoses there, ya know!
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#8
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Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
You should do a full tune up every year.
Plugs cap/rotor wires.
Get life time warranty wires, just trade in once a year.
2nd and 3rd gens seam to eat ign parts much faster then other cars.
Both my old 2nd and 3rd went nuts at one time like you decsribe and a simple full tune up fixed it.
Plugs cap/rotor wires.
Get life time warranty wires, just trade in once a year.
2nd and 3rd gens seam to eat ign parts much faster then other cars.
Both my old 2nd and 3rd went nuts at one time like you decsribe and a simple full tune up fixed it.
#9
i plan to completely redo the ignition this winter as well as all the vacuum lines, so ill just let it slide for another couple weeks till the winter beater is back on the road. freakin head gasket on my 87 ranger blew almost 90 miles away from home, lol.
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