brandon_mckay

i am 16 and me and my dad worked on my car for quite a while but it always seemed never to work right (even when i bought it). well come to find out there was a bunch of wiring problems, and trouble codes any ways i didnt have time to work on it anymore so i took it to my friends high school where they have a shop and will work on students cars. The teacher thaere who worked on it for me is a very smart mechanic so i brought it to him they fixed a whle lot of wiring and cleared all of the trouble codes they had a scan tool. But the car is still hagving the same problem it is terrible on fuel and it has no power it takes a lot to get my rpms up and even when they are high it still doesn't feel like it has any torque or power at all it is a 1988 2.8 mpfi from what i can tell everything seems fine so it should work any suggestions? all help and suggestions would be GREATLY APPRECIATED o when me and my father worked on it we set the valves according to the haynes manual?? i just thought maybe it was something to do with this

2.8RS

iTrader: (5)

Check for vacuum leaks and your compression first. Have you done the usual tuneup stuff and do you have anymore codes? Just if you don't know these cars don't have a whole lot of a topend.

brandon_mckay

the shop teacher replaced all vacuum lines we did a compression check it all read around 120 psi and we did pretty much the usual tune up in addition to putting a new temp sensor 02 sensor i put a cat back exhaust on whne i did this i looked at the cat and it was fine. As far as i have been told they fixed all of the codes

brandon_mckay

its not so much top end but allaround dad has driven it he had a 3.1 corsica and says they arent even comparable we know there seems to be something wrong but cant figure it out
o another thing that i find very strange if you go start it after it has cooled down usuallly only after a whole night and drive it it seems to work how it should for a few seconds but then it just gets horrible again dad has driven it then and said it felt like it was working like it should.

brandon_mckay

sorry if i wasnt clear when i said a regular tune up i only meant a general tune up that would apply to any car not the ones done that would get specific for example i havent checked any voltages at sensors or anything

kscamaro89

iTrader: (1)

is there any color to the exhaust idling or when you gun it?

brandon_mckay

no there isn't that is what is puzzling??? the compression is the same in all cylinders it is at 120 psi any other ideas?

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Just an FYI, your Dad's Corssica will beat your car on almost any given day. The car is lighter, the heads are lighter (aluminum) and flow quite a bit better then your iron heads. Why do you think so many are going to aluminum FWD heads/pistons?

di11avou

iTrader: (1)

Does the the check engine light come on when it starts running poorly? Was one of the codes they cleared number 43? When I first got my car, as soon as it warmed up the check engine light would come on and I'd lose all power. Turned out to be a bad knock sensor. Just my .

brandon_mckay

hmmm im not sure becuase the guy who i bought it from was kind of messy when he put it all together i can't even find the check engine light essentially i dont know but i am not sure if they checked for that after they let it warm up or not it would be interesting to find out dads friend has a scan tool so ill check here soon . anyone else have the same code replace the sensor and have the same results( more or less i wan't o know if this is a common problem with these cars?

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Scan tool on these OBD1 ECM's is a paperclip or jumper. The ECM will flash the code when the key is in the "on" position (do not start). Click on the FAQ's at the top of the page to get the code chart.

kscamaro89

iTrader: (1)

Bad fuel map or ECM? I'm not quite sure if this would cause this but it definitly wouldn't be good.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Again, use a paperclip and follow these instructions...

https://www.thirdgen.org/service-eng...ht-error-codes

let us know what the codes are, and it might be an easy fix.

MDv6man

sounds like you may have a bad ignition module or ignition coil. Not totally bad...but bad to the point that it starts running like poo after it gets warmed up

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

darx

I had the SAME EXACT PROBLEM!!!

Look under your car, there should be a L shapped thing with a spring next to it, if the spring is detached from the L shapped thing, then the exhaust is covered.

Basically, connect the two back together and start it up.

Lemme know if it helped or if you don't understand what the hell i'm saying...

you can contact me here

highschool-dropouts@hotmail.com

kscamaro89

iTrader: (1)

You might want to be a bit more specific. Where under the car are you speaking of?

Corky

Brandon,
Check your timing. Sounds like timing was set without disconnecting ESC connector. Car will eat gas and run sluggish without proper timing setting.
Check it out, it's simple & doesn't cost much.
Corky

darx

Its the Cutout switch, or exhaust valve, i just talked to my brother, it could be the same problem with yours, but my camaro is modified, he said its probably not on your.

You might also want to check your cadi converter, there is a chance it could be clogged, that could be an $100 - $200 fix at a mech, but if you know what your doing, or you take it to the shop, the piece runs around $80.

Here is what my symptoms were.

I would start the car and it would sound normal, but when your press the gas, it sounds as if air was escaping, and the RPM's are running low.

When you drive it, it feels like there is something holding you back, as if you had a flat tire or something. The Top Speed is around 55-65, and it sucks up Gas like no other.

Close enough?

xcel92

i would try the o2 sensor.

1989RsCamaro

for the guy at the top of the page who says these 2.8L v6 dont have alot of top end thats BS my friend, i have 1989 2.8L v6 with T5 manual trans and it will do 120 in 4th gear, and 5000rpm and thats not even yellow lining it, it yellow lines at 5500rpm lol..but ya, check vacum hoses, take the screen out of the MAF sensor, edit the air box where the filters are if you have the TPI setup all you have to do is basicly gut it out, so the filters sit on nothing but the little thin black line in the center of the sqaure for the filter..replace the coil with a MSD High performance coil, new rotor button and if you still have the factory distributor, fork out the 150bucks and get a new one lol...trust me well worth it..if all else fails the replace fuel injectors which im thinking about but mine seem to be working fine with 188,200miles on them lol.new plugs,wire...if none of those work then fuel pump and fuel filter are the only other things...or blown head/intake gasket i did read that in the HANES manual..or if you have T5 manual trans cluch could be slipping some causing loss of power to wheels..check timing as well..if all else fails convert to a v8..cant go wrong.