amlv20

I got a 90 rs v6 3.1 has been my daily driver for close to 7 years with no major repairs ever needed. Had issues with fuel pump tranny and ECM but that was many years ago and repaired accordingly. Tune up with plugs and wires was done about a year to a year and half ago. On Friday night I was running errands with gf and noticed it started weird, this car has always started as soon as key was turned. But I noticed that it took a second longer and the starter sounded strangely louder. When I was leaving for home it shut off on me after about a minute of driving down the road.it would start and stall, at times not start at all.i could hear fuel pump and no blown fuses.i got it towed home(love aaa) and messed with it some yesterday I have fuel pressure above 40 psi and it fires up every time. But stumbles and stalls or shuts off as soon as I open the throttle.checked spark at #6 plug and had a spark but seemed a little slow and would mimic what the engine is doing like when it was stalling the spark would almost disappear also I didn't like the color was almost orange. So I got a new coil and tested the ign module at orileys and it failed so I got a new one too. Installed them and no change. At one point it didn't start at all with no spark. I omhed the coil wire to cap and found 3.4k ohms. The rotor was all black in the center almost like carbon tracking or it burnt. I cleaned it and still the same. I replaced cap and rotor and ohmed the pick up coil at 770ohms I got. New one but that one also ohms in the same range.i haven't installed yet because this dist is different it doesn't have the pole pick up piece I'm used to seeing with the vertical fingers that go bad and bend. This has a flat pice with six tips pointing inward and a six pointed star connected to the shaft inside. I can see the pick up coil under it but I'm not seeing how to get the center star off the shaft when I pry up rom under it the magnetic outer ring flexes and I don't want to crack it.so I just replaced cap and rotor and its still the same. It doesn't make a difference if I disconnect the est bypass connector. I ohmed to injectors I could get to with out removing intake and both 12.3 ohms.but engine starts up fine but once rpm falls to idle speed engine stumbles and misses then stalls or shuts off if I crack open the throttle. It only throws up code 33 but I think that's due to the poor running condition of the engine not being able to produce the correct vacuum.also alt out put is good at 13v so it's not over under charge. Also disconnected map and no change. Going to see if I can borrow the shop scan tool tomorrow and see if any pids are off. Any ideas thanks.

batsibf

how are the breaks, realy hard or normal when pressing the pettal, what dose the engine do. have you tried to put a little pressure on the accelerator when starting?

coolrimsatleast

Starts/doesn't start, runs and dies randomly/ poor spark..... Sounds a lot like the ignition control module. I've had that go bad a few times over the years and had pretty much matching symptoms.

I've heard of the coil getting old and possibly cracking in some way, allowing moisture in, which causes a lot of problems. I'd try replacing that ICM first.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

1. It's an aftermarket reman dizzy. Completely different setup. Probably best to replace it as one piece unless you can figure out how to get the pickup apart.
2. Alt output at 13V running is NOT good. Stock regulator in the alt should be putting out about 14.5V. Even at idle. Also check the battery voltage with the engine and everything off.
3. Check the voltage on the pink wire at the coil. Should be battery voltage.
4. Unplug the injector harness connector under the TB and check the resistance between the pink wires and the blue and green ones. Should come out to 4 ohms. 6 or more means a bad injector.
5. Check for vacuum leaks. And not just around the vacuum lines, but also the PCV valve, hose, and elbows, and the valve covers.
6. Also may want to do a compression check.

amlv20

Sorry for never updating my desperation post. I figured out how to replace the pick up coil and after the engine wouldn't start at all. Found the green wire poked through the insulation and shorting to dis case. Replaced it and now starts but runs the same. After damn near replace the ignition system.cap,rotor,ign module, pick up coil, and coil it still runs the same. Checked ac volts and disconnected alt still runs the same.if throttle is touched it will stall.wont start touching throttle.used a scanner and all pids seem normal. Checked resistance on the six way injector connector and found pink/blk to drk blue is 1.7 ohms compared to pink to green is 4 ohms. Disconnected one at a time then started engine. When disconnected middle injector on passengers bank(#3?) found engine idles normal and can be revved up, connect injector and engine immediately stalls.i suspect bad injector shorting out ecu driver causing ecu shut down.so now today I go to replace injector and the retaining clip that hold the injector broke in two when I was twisting it out. So tomorrow I need to go to pick and pull and pray I find one.anyone ever put injectors back in with out the clip? I figure the rail bolts would hold the injector down, I just don't like how easy it is to twist back and forth compared to the rest.any one done it before?

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I dont have the clips from the injecor to rail on my car. Havent for about 5k miles. I just have the clips on the wiring harness only. Ive pushed my fuel pressure up to over 55psi before while racing and as long as your o-rings are good and you have the rail tightned down well it "should" be ok.

Now after saying that above. If I was you, I would put the clips back ON. I didnt because I lost those damm things and was in a pinch.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Meh... Unless you forget to bolt the fuel rail down, the injector isn't going anywhere. And about the only place to get a replacement one is either a yard (good luck) or aftermarket, or possibly the dealer.

The reason the injector twists easier than the rest is that the o-rings are new and the others aren't. Don't forget to use oil on the rings as you put the rail back into the engine (I hope you bought replacement rings for the other 5 injectors as well or you may end up with a vacuum leak).

amlv20

I like doing things right, it was Sunday so no dealer and no after market only napa had it in the system but didn't even show it at the wear house.went to pick and pull and found plenty came out with five.then I went to go back together and the rail line o rings were torn, oriley and autozone didn't have any, napa was closed.this morning went straight to napa and picked one up.finally finish and engine fired right up.the idle was way high, figured iac counts cleared since I had the battery disconnected, so I let it idle and set the timing. Idle was still high for my liking and when coming to a stop the idle was unstable and engine stalled a few times, I figure time to search idle relearn for this thing since no car I've ever worked on needed a relearn procedure the computer always figured itself.searching this forum I was surprised by how every post almost recommended idle relearn instantly. I didn't check out every thread but the ones I did I was surprised no one would mention throttle body cleaning and would go straight to mention the relearn procedure. Anyways I cleaned the throttle body nice and shiny, put some gas in er and went for a good drive.now idles smooth, especially when coming to a stop. Life's all good for now....

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Good to hear that she runs well.