SneezeCheese

I am wanting to cut a hole to change the fuel pump im not super experienced but i know some basics. What i need to know is a start to finish guide including tools i will need and parts to get the job done. Im not stupid but an idiots guide couldn't hurt. Please help this is my only car i have to do this asap!

Gumby

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/7...king-high.html

SneezeCheese

So the fuel line the needs to be cut is where? Inside the tank or is it the 4 lines out the top? So hose clamps and tiny tubing cutter is all i need and tin snips and new fp? And you need to cut the hole like the picture shown in that thread?

SneezeCheese

Thanks for that btw. Appreciate any help in the confusion.

Restrorob

iTrader: (7)

Read these;

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...tal-above.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...cces-done.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...4-post160.html


Just for the record, I dropped my tank as in the proper way to replace a fuel pump......

Gumby

only cause GM was to cheap to put in an access door, it wasn't done for anyones bennfit but the bottom line.

Took GM till 2000 to join the rest of the car builders who provide access doors for service.

Gumby

well line on top need cut so you can lift the pump out, that pics in that post would allow it come out out without cutting but that was a butcher job.

I only cut enough to remove pump.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Sad...

Stewie

I've got a 92 bird. I cut the hole a little larger than the diagram shows. Made it a little easier to get the tube cutter on the lines. But, it is not a quick job. As I recall, took me 2-3 hours. Never regretted doing it.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

yep

Eric-86sc

iTrader: (18)

especially if it truly takes 2-3 hours to cut the pump out. In that amount of time you could have the tank out the right way.

Gumby

And then every time after that it takes about 5 mins, I had to go back in 3 times, Id shoot you in the face before I dropped the rear end 4 times.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Not sure y everyone thinks its just sooo hard to lower that rearend? Sure if the car is rusty and not maintained it'll suck because of rusty bolts. Doesn't anyone want to look around for problems while under there or is it a "if i don't see anything wrong, nothing is" kinda attitude anymore?
Nothing wrong with a little preventative maintenance.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

^^^^^ soooo true, not sure y i bother posting.
Its the same people that do things like this to the whole car then wonder y their car doesn't bring top dollar...

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

I get a kick out of reading the threads that start out with something along the lines of " access panel for fuel pump" and I say say "here we go again!"

I think it needs to be a sticky for "Access panels for Fuel Pump Replacement"

OK.....continue , carry on soldiers!

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

What size torch tip should I use for cutting the rear hatch area to make a access panel for a fuel pump replacement in my unmolested 88 GTA?
I need to get it done ASAP.
Thanks

SARCASM

Gumby

only funny part is I fully welded the interior of my car, long before I did the pump, which meant I was welding right over the lines just half in away with out knowing. Them 999 cheesy spot welds they use are a joke. Plus a rear STB is in place. Lets talk about how that isn't needed.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

"only funny part is I fully welded the interior of my car, long before I did the pump, which meant I was welding right over the lines just half in away with out knowing."

Glad you're still with us Gumby!

Gumby

X2 as the first time I did the pump, I follwed the direction and used the cheap plastic quick connects it provides. after time the power wire had metled back from the juice jumping the tiny gap inside. Over time it had melted back over an inch, till the juice could no longer jump the gap to provide power to the pump. Like a giant spark plug goin with gas tank half full or less. [fumes are what explode, I run half or less for weight ]

that was the 4th time I was in, time 2-3 were problems with that bulk head connection, which I had to wire around finally and put in a back up hot switch.

Stewie

No I couldn't. I'm old, slow, and don't have a garage or lift. Maybe someone with the right experience, equipment & tools could drop an axle and tank, install a new fuel pump, and reinstall the tank and axle in 2-3 hours.

BTW, I've got a complete axle with posi traction that I'd like to someday swap with my current axle. If you want to drop by for 2-3 hours and help me do it, I'll buy you dinner at the best fine dining restaurant in town.
(It's called the Melting Pot. Dinner & drinks will cost me $100-$150 plus tip.)

Stewie

Gumby, I'd drive (more likely push) mine over a cliff before I'd drop the axle 4 times.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

If you were in central IL, I could do that and do it in about an hour for ya.

couchmotors

dont cut because you will also have to cut the lines to get the pump assy out of the tank. it is alot easyer to just lower the rearend by unbolting the shocks and letting the rear swing and drop the tank

Stewie

Half hour and that includes taking a 10 minute break for lunch.

willexoIX

I pulled my trans with a jack, 4 stands and a limerock driveway. Gas tank would be a quick job even without a lift. Hell, I did my rear shocks inside 20 minutes.

Melting pot is hands down the best dining experience I have ever had, and so was the food. The waitresses weren't bad to look at either

willexoIX

Did you say Darwin Award? LOL

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

willexoIX

Well I can assure you its not that hard to just drop the tank. Had it out in 30 minutes having never done it before, the longest part is putting the tank back in.

LarryD

Seems a matter of personal choice on cutting in the access door with your tank in and changing the pump or taking the tank out to change it.. Pro's and con's either way.. Personally don't like sparks around gas tanks but it seems a lot of people have been successful that way..

I had to change my tank due to the fuel filler neck leak so did the fuel pump at the same time, therefore, it was coming out anyway. It wasn't to bad to do just a lot of busy work with dropping the exhaust tail pipe, gas tank heat shield, then disconnecting the track bar and shocks and dropping the differential down with a floor jack.. Oh, and you need to pull the fuel door and pocket out to allow the neck to wiggle its way out as you drop the tank.. I also disconnected the fuel lines at the sub-frame rails before pulling the tank... I used crib blocks I had built positioned under the sub-frame rails for support while dropping the axle.. The taller the better to get more room for dropping the tank.. Did that for solid stability of the car and not having to worry about coming off jack stands.. Careful to make sure the coil springs don't pop out (tie them in for safety) when you lower the differential. Lastly, the tank needs to be as empty as you can get it or it's a bit heavy to maneuver..

Now, if you want an access door for later then cut it in and add disconnect fittings for the fuel lines while you have the tank out. I didn't do that but seems like to me much easier to do the access door that way and no sparks to worry about (especially if your tank has a leak like mine did which was not visible).. Gives you a chance to install some nice disconnects and do a real clean job on the access door.. Next time you will have the access door if there is a next time...

Special tools required: Floor jack, crib blocks to support the car (or jack stands if you want), right size sockets and end wrenches for the larger bolts (some deep wells make it easier), and a breaker bar or two... Impact wrench is nice but not really required.. Assorted screw drivers, end wrenches and small sockets.. Take pictures.. If cutting in the access door I would recommend a cutoff wheel instead of a torch for a nice clean cut that is easier to work with...

If I had to do it again, I would again drop the differential and tank.. The key is getting enough height for the car off the ground and getting the differential to drop as far as you can.. It can be done without a lift but takes some patience and ingenuity.. Good luck either way you decide to go...

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

You pretty much have it Larry. I don't have exhaust on my car, so it was easy for me and Will to take out my tank, and it was a fluke of a thing going back in as the last time I did it it wasn't that hard.

If you have a bone stock car its a huge pain, but if you've got modified exhaust its sometimes easier. Half the battle is getting the car high enough in the air for you to remove everything and then having the strength to put the tank back in if you've got gas in it. I had half a tank in mine when we did it, was comical how it took 3 of us to put that thing back in the car.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

I can tell you that the number 1 best investment I made before dropping my tank, was an air compressor and impact gun. It still took me nearly a full day to get it out and back in the first time (only time so far). I can't imagine the a$$pain of doing it with sockets and wrenches.

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

This. I've got Snap-On Battery impacts, best things ever.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

This thread is like a really bad car wreck you see on the highway.......you just gotta look!

Compressor...Check
Impact Gun...Check
Jack/Stands...Check
Dunnage...Check
Time...Check

Beer in fridge....AFTER completion......Check.

I say this cause I'm getting ready to upgrade my FP to a Walbro 340 and adding a Hot wire kit to the TTA.

Just trying to get amp'd up........say like a Pep Rally before the big game!!!!

couchmotors

and when the rubber hose that you put on the line you cut rots and starts leaking and 60 psi of fuel starts coming out and catches on fire when it hits the exhaust can you say
CAR-BBQ and how do you like your ribs ooh ya extra crispy.

willexoIX

#1 it wont rot overnight; the original rubber line has lasted over 20 years.

#2 IF you do it CORRECTLY, and use (whodathunk) FUEL INJECTION HOSE, you won't have that problem.

Gumby

There is rubber section on the lines factory both in the rear and under the hood. Those section are already 20+ years old. new section of FI rated hose are gonna out last the factory rubber parts hands down.

so you better change thsoe factory rubber section fast if you believe your own BS.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Not to hijack a thread, but will those FI hose parts be sufficient to cope swapping from carb to FI? Can it be clamped down sufficiently? Or should I get the hardlines flared and put actual fittings on them?

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

To avoid all this I just went with SS braided hose with AN fittings. Spend the money once and never need to spend it again. The next time I pull my tank I'm putting in a sumped tank with AN fittings so I can run a inline pump.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Well what I want to know is how SneezeCheese made out, now that we all put our feelings on the subject out there and p#$@ed in his Corn Flakes.

I think we had some great advice....BOTH ways

I hope he gets/got the job done.
Like 75% of all the other problems on here people have; never find out the result.

Done ranting and hijacking SneezeCheese's thread.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

"next time I pull my tank I'm putting in a sumped tank with AN fittings so I can run a inline pump"

Won't that be kinda NOISY?!!!

Gumby

double hose clamps on each end.

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

Can't hear it over my exhaust anyway. #Racecarproblems

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

got me on that one!

willexoIX

Fuel injection clamps would be the proper clamps to use. Flare fittings even better. AN fittings would be best.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

An AN fitting like this?

Russell AN Aluminum Fuel Line Fitting

Podium

iTrader: (2)

Its funny to read about guys getting out of shape about this.

willexoIX

I don't care what someone else does to their car. That said I'll be damned if I'm cutting a hole above the gas tank in mine.

couchmotors

i have owned 9 camaro's from 1977 to 1999 and all in between. I hold 13 ASE certs. also I'M an A&P license mech. i believe in doing stuff the right way the first time and not having to go back and doing it twice. yes there is some short cuts that are great and everyone has gone off the deep end with this thread. but cutting a large hole in a unibody car is never a good thing. yes i have seen it done. but it takes the same amount of time and less trips the the parts store jury-rigging stuff back together,if you do it correctly the first time. i have seen people do this and use vaccuum line and catch there car on fire. but if you use FI hose which is steel braided it will work and double hoses clamps. it will work for a while . i just fixed a camaro that had this done to it and it keeped losing prime on the pump. they had cut all four lines on top of the tank... but ha it your ride do as you wish. i have hijacked this one for the last time

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

Yup. Pimpin aint easy.