Alright guys, I have been looking for a clean install for my cooling setup that I can do myself since I hate doing electrical.

Here is the setup:

DIF Dual Fan Controller
DIF Dual Fan Controller Install on S13 S14 240sx
3 Row radiator with Dual Fans
Ill be using a 40amp fuse. Fans run at about 18amps ea.

NOTE: With this setup this will make it very easy to remove any components and re-configure to a new setup or new routine.

It states being run off the coolant sensor (2 wire). What I am trying to do is have this work so both fans turn on at 200* and off at 185*. Now I see they can be turned on at any point within range of their controller (150*-200*), but what I do not see is what turns the fans off at a certain temperature. In which if this is run off the coolant sensor that means it is running off the ECM turn off temperatures, correct? If so what would those be?

Please let me know what I can do to make this install as easy as possible and work for what I want. I can do everything up until how the fans turn off, which I want off at 185*. Please explain this in a bit better detail than I know of right now. Thanks.

 

What's wrong with using the factory dual fan control?

 

Possibly being kicked out of house within next month, car is about 2 months worth of work away from being drive-able, not to be a jerk but I don't need a response like this. Tell me how I go about getting this to work so that both my fans turn on at 200* and off at 185* without using the stock cooling setup besides the coolant temp sensor).

Here is my story.

My car came to me with a serious overheating problem. From cold start to overheat would take about 30 seconds. This car went from 0* overnight sitting to over 200*+ and boiling in about 30 seconds of run time. May be a bit exaggerated but it happened very quick. So I decided to remove all cooling components and start upgrading for my future plans. In this process I found that my single fan setup was garbage (Good for stock not for me). So I removed it and realized no connector to the fan, since it was cut. So I looked over at my auxiliary switch and that too was cut and now a frayed wire. So no fan turning on was problem one with cooling. Then I looked at the fan relay, which looks to have been cut 4 or 5 times, replaced and redone again and again. So problem 2 may be poor wiring to stock fan relay. Then I got under the car to see the air dam condition, stripped and hanging on by a thread. Basically just touched it and it fell right out. So third problem was air dam was not flowing air to the radiator since it was hanging and just bending back towards the car and not sending air up, so I removed this and plan to have a nice sheet-metal one made up, shorter, since I will be lowering this car 2" in the future as well.

I DO NOT want to ever have to worry about my car heating up past 200*, So I am taking care of this first and final. I want this cooling to be ready for Drift/Drag/Street/Gymkhana/Auto-X, where I will be just banging this car around hardcore.

So here I am with a poor wiring job to my fan relay, no fan or auxiliary fan connectors, some manual switch in my interior, a beat up radiator, a broken water pump.

So I decided to bypass all of this trying to stay away from any other problems the PO made and have my cooling run off an external setup, this dual fan controller and the battery and coolant temp switch since I know this works properly.

The relay, fan, radiator and other stock cooling parts are too butchered for me to get this working right since I will not be pulling my dash apart to find all these wires this car has leading into the interior for the butchered aux switch, relay, and stock fan wires.

So my next choice is to get a whole new setup, which I have above. Which makes things simpler for me.

So lets say I have all this setup. What else is needed for it to all work.

Stage 2 Water Pump
Stage 2 180* Thermostat w/ 3 hole bypass
New air dam
3 row radiator with dual fans running at 2800cfm total
DIF Dual fan controller
Working coolant temp sensor.



To me it looks like I just need to know how to figure out how to turn the fans off at a specified temp. Which if this uses the coolant temp sensor means it will shut off at the fan shut off temp of the ECM...which is? I just want to know how the fans will turn off. Since we know this bypasses the ECM turn on temp of 220 and 243 or so (Highest turn on is about 210* which doesn't reach the first turn on of the stock ECM). So no need to worry about ECM controlling that point, but how will it control the turn off of these fans. As I want to keep this car below 200* and above 170* at all times.

AM I GOOD TO GO? Please explain.

 

I H8 WWD,

I don't see any info on when it turns off. My guess is it leaves the fan on until you turn the engine off.

I use a Dakota Digital PAC-2000 controller which allows you to independently specify the turn on and turn off temperatures of two fans. The Dakota works by replacing your secondary fan switch with one of their's. I would prefer not to hack into the CTS wiring anyway. Just an idea. See this thread:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...-fans-not.html



They don't sell the -2000 anymore but its replacement, the -2700, is available.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DAK-PAC-2700/

 

The ECM will ground out the fan (turning it on) at temp X. At temp Y the ecm will open the circuit (turning it off). The problem is your DIF unit won't know what the ECM is trying to do. It is just intercepting the signal from the CTS. So the DIF will keep the fan until until it loses power (when you turn the engine off)

Actually looking at your pictures more, there is no CTS output back to the ECM. How is the ECM getting the CTS data. The ECM uses the CTS for a lot more than just turning the one fan on and off. Do you have a manual for this thing? I'd like to take a look at it.

Do check out the Dakota digital unit though. That thing is a piece of cake. And I can help you set it up if needed.

 

EDIT: Wrote this while above two posts were posted

Also if this setup means I don't need a Hypertech fan switch I can just get a nice plug for the passenger head and get my headers finally put on, which I am waiting to do to see if I need a Hypertech fan switch or if I can do away with it and get this setup, allowing me to finally get my headers, valve covers and plug wires on the car, along with wiring the battery and starter up since that's at a stand still until I figure this out.

 

Are you talking about the DIF or the Dakota?

I'm not sure what you'd need with the DIF. Need to see some instructions.

With the Dakota, you need a temperature sensor somewhere. I put the sensor in place of the fan switch in the passenger side head. Are your heads stock? If you so you would use this sensor.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DAK-SEN-04-2/

Other sensors can be found here:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...er-temperature

 

I as a SIMPLE QUESTION & I get a BS response & fussed at? Screw it.....

I HAD an answer for you, but your not gonna hear it now.

 

Alright let me see if I get this Dakota unit right.

I will need.
Dakota 2700
1 Extra Fan Relay
1 Sender (To stay away from messing with the stock CTS and to work with future autometer gauges)

Then wire it all up.

Does fused battery 12v mean an inline fused will need to be used?

Looking at the diagram the only thing I am unsure how to wire in is the ignition switch when the key is turned on. What did you splice into for this part, and what can be spliced into besides what you chose?

I believe I will put mine on the flat faced section of the dash that faces the passenger (Right side of radio, right below dash pad)

Will I need extra wire? Or is there a substantial amount of wiring with this kit. Anything else to look for? Size of fuses, relays etc.

This kit is way better than the DIF.

 

I'm to frustrated to get less than an answer (3 years of the car sitting and no progress put me there) and I am sorry for that, in which I guess I will have to say I thought I was getting help when I bought this car and am now doing everything by myself within a couple month period, all learning for the first time along the way while having a move and extra bills in my face as well. It's to much for my young self.

87350IROC gave me a straight forward response, didn't see a turn off so in turn told me of a kit that does have one, since my main question was how to get the fans to turn off after install.

Thanks for the answers guys, helped a lot, also since the Dakota kit has very detailed instructions I think wiring this in will be very easy for me.

Anything else would be greatly appreciated, need to start buying the last parts and assembling the rest of the car ASAP.

Sorry again Stephen if I came off like a jerk (even if I said I didn't want to be a jerk). It just sucks being almost 4 years into a car I have yet to drive more than 3 miles. And now with having to move, and paying bills I normally didn't have to, its all getting to me and being pushed onto you guys, especially you Stephen (the past few comments I had on you were jokes but still), so again I apologize and would like to hear what you have to say, please don't punish future searchers from good information. Thanks, especially for the quick responses. Its crazy how much of a jerk I can be without being one in my own views.

 

Ok, In my case my car already had stock dual fans. So I just reused the stock relays. If you don't already have the stock dual fan setup, you may want to order the additional relay.

As far as the sender/sensor. Do you have those autometer gauges now? If not, I would just use the plain sender until you get the gauges, then change to the autometer sender. If not you may have to do some custom calibration on the PAC-2700 which does sound easily do-able.

I mounted mind to the side of the heater box above the passenger foot area. For 12v fused, the easiest way is to tap into a hot line off the interior fuse box. I think I used either the radio hot or the power antenna hot. The Dakota box is very low current so you shouldn't run into any problems with excess power draw. Since you are grabbing from the fuse box, no additional fuse is required.

As for keyed (ignition) hot. I pulled either the ignition hot from the radio or the power antenna. I can't remember which. Either should work fine. I don't remember wire colors for these. I'll see if I can find out tonight when I get home.

If I remember correctly, the kit came with no wire. So you'll need a spool of normal hook-up wire.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ml#post4477418

I gave up trying to help some people after this one. You might have a much simpler solution, but get a lot of trash talk.

 

Ok guys. Thanks for the input. Please keep this technical. There's a lot of good info on this thread.

 

I posted this in another thread for new battery cables and leads.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...ery-power.html

 

Again I would just pull the 12v from a source in the dash somewhere. The Dakota uses virtually zero power. It doesn't send current to the fans, just the "signal" wire for the relays. It will not affect current draw from other systems.

 

Alright should be last question.

What is Fan PWR 12v and 12v difference in the Dakota diagram for the relays

Fan + to relay black wire
Relay red to ignition switch tee off into ignition switch for dakota unit (use same ignition wire)
Relay green to battery +

Dakota unit 12v power from washer bottle power wire
Do I ground the other wire from the washer bottle harness?