I understand I gotta be clear so I'm confused on where to start.Well first off my mechanic is my buddy and does me good on the labor so he's gonna check and fix all the little things headlights,fan wiring, alignment,brakes,tune carb ,all that but after that I'm not sure where to start,I try reading a lot and I was thinking of putting a 262xe cam in then I read well if your not gonna replace the 882 heads don'tput a cam in,so then my buddy says you should put a smaller carb, I think its a speed demon 4 barrell over I think 750 800 maybe ,but then I read some people run that size carb and its fine,so everything seems to have 2 sides.Bottom line this is gonna be my daily driver ,I'm not planning to race ,drag race ,anything like that ,I just want a car that ya has some power,sounds nice,again I have the 260 hp 350,882 heads,edelbrock intake,speed demon carb,deff stock cam,bbk long tube headers,dual 2 straight pipe they come out right before the rear tires id like a smoother sounding exhaust that goes out the back, the gas goes right in my window,maybe springs I like the high in the back low in front stance ,oh and where the radio should be is diff gauges temp and all that ,but id like to keep that ,but I do want a damn radio tho any suggestions??

 

What gear ratio do you have in the rear and do you have a L.S.D. (AKA Posi.) ?
If its the 2.73 with open differential ( non- posi. )then that's where I would start.
It does not matter how much torque you have if its not being put to the ground properly. ( one wheel peel )

 

I couldn't read that.

I have a suggestion. PUNCTUATION!

http://grammar.ccc.commnet.edu/grammar/marks/marks.htm

 

run the exhaust out the back if you want to stop smelling fumes.

for more power, your gonna need better heads than those 882s.

 

Since your post this time starts with "where to start" I'm going to answer it.
Patience and communication!
First, break up your problems into logical categories and post them as seperate questions with descriptive titles (not "help") and post them in appropriate forums. (There's one for engine, body, stereo)
Second, write in English with punctuation, not textspeak. I know you are too advanced for our primitive communication, but YOU want info from US and few people here want to read your posts so far. So suck it up and use some of the writing skills that made it past all the PC feelings training you got in school.
We want to help you, but personally I'm not reading any more of your posts unless you are willing to change format.

 

Going to do my best here


When I got my car it had the XE274 cam installed with 882 heads and about 8.8:1 compression. While it was not ideal I got it running fairly well. The 262 cam is mild and would probably work with your heads and static compression.

That being said to change the cam you are already doing 75% of the work required to change the heads. I would probably do both at the same time.

Yes you want a smaller carb. Get a 600cfm and you should be all set. The reason 750cfm q jets work well is because of their small primaries. Holley, Demon and Edelbrock all have the same side primaries and secondaries so larger carbs tend to not work well with some engines.

600cfm can support any NA 350 reving under 6000 RPM.

Save money, get some vortec heads either aftermarket or factory. ANYTHING USED get checked by a machine shop. Make sure they have screw in studs and replace the springs to handle your valve lift. Then get roller rockers. Get self aligning if you do NOT use guide plates.

Get a catback system off summit or craigslist. Then bring the car to a good exhaust shop and have them install it and fab up a new Y pipe. I love my magnaflow exhaust but get what you want. I got mine on craigslist near new for $240. I also got my friend a nice flowmaster near new for $120.

Move the aftermarket gauges to a pillar pod like this

 

Thank you that's a start...I've been looking for heads can anyone tell me what exact vortec heads I need, I know sbc 62-68 cc what should I go with? and does the year matter?

 

http://m.ebay.com/itm/231162621505?cmd=VISPEC ??

 

You want 1996-2000 Vortec truck heads number 906 or 062. They are all 64cc but I think they generally measure 62cc.

Any used or factory head will require a trip to a shop to be check for cracks. Then have them machined for screw in studs and better springs.

Or get an aftermarket set.

 

They are bare with press in studs. Also they claim 2.02 valves which are NOT factory and can even hurt the flow of factory vortec heads.

Factory 906 or 062 heads flow great on the intake side but can benefit from a 1.6 exhaust valve.

 

http://m.ebay.com/itm/181287443448?nav=SEARCH

 

They are different than GM vortec heads, the combustion chamber looks off and so do the intake ports. Also he claims 2.02 valves where dart says they are 1.94. Either way 2.02 on a 165 intake runner may be a bit overkill.

http://www.dartheads.com/products/ai...tfile_id/1264/

 

How about this camhttp://www.rakuten.com/prod/comp-cams-12-262-4-xtreme-energy-cam-cs-xe262h-14/225106259.html?listingId=299816222

 

You will need new lifters as well so maybe get a kit

http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP+Cams/249/K12-238-2/10002/-1

 

This is actually really simple, since it looks like everyone else has you covered on the mechanical stuff, here ya go:

That rake that you want (high in the back, low in the front) can be had on stock springs by doing one of two things; A) buy a set of air shocks for the rear (they allow you to adjust the height with a simple use of an air compressor, and for driving purposes ride reasonably well) or B) buy a tire for the back end that is taller than the standard 26" tire.

option B is what I did on my car, I'm running 275/60/R15 on 15x8 rims. No cutting or beating was required to make it work either.

For comparison i've attached a picture, my Father's car on the left has air shocks in the back that give it the stance, with a just slightly larger tire on the back. My car on the right has just a tire size upgrade.

 

RedLeader289,
Really nice looking cars !

 

Well I gotta check the rear but there was a v6 orinally so I don't know if the p/o changed,I know there's a diff gear ratio

 

Probably ~3.20-3.40 and open diff. Also probably means your speedo is off. I would download a speedo program on your smartphone and compare the 2.

 

Thanks, Ron!
it's been said before by many but your car looks great as well!

 

Ok update so it turns out I have a mild cam already in the car and also have drag air shocks also,so I should be able to raise the back with air comp.....on the other hand the drag shocks suck for everyday use, anyone recomend a decent brand for decent price also is there any other mods I can do sometimes the vibration I want my car to feel like more wholesome lol like everything is one with her.

 

Odd, they may be old and shot if they ride that bad. Bilstein makes good shocks/struts for our cars that provide a little bit of lift in the back.

As far as vibrations go, swapping out all your old bushings with energy suspension poly bushings would be a good thing, and fairly cheap. (sway bar, end links (front and rear on both), motor mounts)

If you have vibrations inside the car then something just might be loose.

 

I can gt a good deal on these they say universal but idl if they fit http://m.summitracing.com/parts/hal-ec1958p anyone hav thes

 

I'd shy away from most "universal" parts when you can get car specific ones for cheaper or the same price.

Like these:

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/kyb-343211

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/kyb-kg5562

and for the front:

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/mon-71728st

 

I would forget about the motor for now and get the rest of the car in proper shape.

New suspension components, ball joints, bushings and brakes.

 

Pic of air plug

 

Besides being upside down what is the picture of?

 

I think it might be the nozzle that goes to his current air shock setup.

Btw in case you didn't already know, that tag on your diff. cover is indicative of a posi-unit being in there

 

Oh sweet a second picture was added.

 

Also, I think I like what you did with your exhaust there

 

So what the p/o put that rear end on or? I put that up I was jw if anyone had that setup how jigh I could ride it and if anyone could help me figure out the rear end.

 

??????????????????

Yes the car has a rear end in it but it may not be factory. Pull the cover and count teeth.

 

Not necessarily, it could have come from the factory with a posi unit (aka someone custom ordered it or something). I'm not sure how high you can jack it up, best bet is to google the max psi for whatever shock you have.

What do you want to figure out about the rear end? Looks like a 10-bolt with a posi unit.

 

If you crawl under the car and look on the passenger side of the rear axle (can't remember if it's facing the front or back of the car) on the axle tube will be some numbers stamped that will tell you everything about the axle.

 

Probably there's numbers on that tag,but wouldn't say the p/o wanna keep the v6 rear end what are the pros of having the posi over the v6?,and Idk what brand shocks they are I just get frustrated this cars a big ? Mark I can't get a hold of the guy who did all the work and half the stuff doesn't have numbers like the carb...

 

The V6 and V8 rear ends are the same (might just have a difference ratio). So chances are if it had a good gear ratio then the p/o just left it in there. That tag might have the ratio on it as well.

 

Ron you said I should start with the rear end what exactly change the gears or?

 

Take the diff cover off and see what is inside.

 

think of it like a big metal Christmas gift

 

So the e- brake connects to the back left right?

 

And does anyone know if I buy 2 headlight assemblies w motor thwy should jus plug in and work right?

 

The ebrake goes from the center to both the back right and left

If they are from the right year. I know at some point they changed but I cannot remember the year. I think it was 89.

 

82-84 headlight assemblies are slightly different from 85-90, 91-92 are different, 85-86 have different connectors and motors from 87-90

 

10 bolt the tag was nothing

 

Almost all of our rears are 10 bolt. They can be 2.73 to 3.73 factory and can have a posi with any of the above ratios.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/390784772070?lpid=82 will these work

 

I don't see why not.

 

I guess you could just swap in a rear that has what you want, that is if you want a Auburn L.S.D. or worse yet a Gov-loc.(AKA Gov-bomb).

IMO if you decide to stay with the 10 bolt I would rebuild it using the Mechanic you have, that is if he’s done it before and already has the tools needed or the best "rear end" shop you can find. Set up is very important. You might be able to keep the 28 spline axles and gear set but it’s the New 28 spline Posi / LSD you want. (With support cover).Something that could at least take the abuse a 5.7, Turbo trans. street car will put out.

Here’s what I did with my little 5.0 and 700r4 with Corvette Servo.
It’s a long thread but worth reading if you’re planning on doing this.=
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...de-photos.html

 

So if I wanted to buy exhaust system like this I would have to get y pipe as well?http://m.ebay.com/itm/130804168838?nav=SEARCH

 

Yes, because that system there utilizes 1 pipe to the muffler and then 2 pipes going out and to the tips. You would need a Y-pipe to bring your 2 headers into the single pipe.

 

So if I want my exhaust to come out the back can I just get 2 4' straight pipes, or would I have to go get pipes that go up and around the axle/ rear end