DONE!..need some BREAK-In TIPS!...
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,100
Likes: 127
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 2
From: huntsville, al
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 6.8 HSR N2O
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 9" Moser 3.50 True trac
Re: DONE!..need some BREAK-In TIPS!...
This has been my experiance.
Although I've built dozens of motors with no problems, the first time I used synthetic oil as a break in oil my rings didn't seat. Was it the reason? I'm not sure but it sure was a coincedence. I used "store brand" 10-30 the last time with no problems. Ran it for 50mi, changed it with the same type oil, ran another 500mi, changed it with synthetic. No problems.
As far as priming the oil, I recommend it. If you use the "drill on the pump shaft" method, you really need and old distributor hollowed out for the priming shaft to go through. You see the distributor housing makes part of the oil passage way. If a dummy housing is not in place you are only priming the pump, oil filter and maybe getting oil to the bearings. The valve train will be left out. It's better than not doing it (IMO) but you're not getting the full benefit. I still leave the coil wire disconnected til I get at least 10# of pressure while cranking it. Again, many motors have been started and given a lifetime of service without this step, but I do it.
Now for the "drive it like you stole it" mentality- why? Sure roller cam motors don't need the cam break in like a flat tapet cam, but all the other components (pistons/cylinder walls, rocker arms, pushrods, timing chain and sprockets etc) must and do wear to each other. This takes a little time and until it happens there's more friction, heat and metal shaving coming off all these parts as they wear into one another. That's why I change the oil twice before 500mi. So again, many motors survive this infant abuse, but I don't take the chance.
Your sensors like tps, iac etc should be fine. I have a HSR 350 and it ran pretty good actually with a stock 350 chip. You will want to find a tuner or better yet, aquire the equiptment and skills, to tune your own chip. There are a few pretty good mail order tuners out there that can get you 70-80% there. It's probably better than a stock 305 tune but NO ONE will spend the time and dedication on YOUR tune as you will. Besides there are too many conditions that a tuner can't anticipate. You kinda "just gotta be there" for the last 20-30% of a tune.
I contacted Brian at www.sales@tbichips.com for my "starter tune". He's seems to know these 3GC's and only charged around $125 for a chip. It was probably closer to the 80% range for me. Good luck, take your time, break her in right- then spank her like a bad girl!
Although I've built dozens of motors with no problems, the first time I used synthetic oil as a break in oil my rings didn't seat. Was it the reason? I'm not sure but it sure was a coincedence. I used "store brand" 10-30 the last time with no problems. Ran it for 50mi, changed it with the same type oil, ran another 500mi, changed it with synthetic. No problems.
As far as priming the oil, I recommend it. If you use the "drill on the pump shaft" method, you really need and old distributor hollowed out for the priming shaft to go through. You see the distributor housing makes part of the oil passage way. If a dummy housing is not in place you are only priming the pump, oil filter and maybe getting oil to the bearings. The valve train will be left out. It's better than not doing it (IMO) but you're not getting the full benefit. I still leave the coil wire disconnected til I get at least 10# of pressure while cranking it. Again, many motors have been started and given a lifetime of service without this step, but I do it.
Now for the "drive it like you stole it" mentality- why? Sure roller cam motors don't need the cam break in like a flat tapet cam, but all the other components (pistons/cylinder walls, rocker arms, pushrods, timing chain and sprockets etc) must and do wear to each other. This takes a little time and until it happens there's more friction, heat and metal shaving coming off all these parts as they wear into one another. That's why I change the oil twice before 500mi. So again, many motors survive this infant abuse, but I don't take the chance.
Your sensors like tps, iac etc should be fine. I have a HSR 350 and it ran pretty good actually with a stock 350 chip. You will want to find a tuner or better yet, aquire the equiptment and skills, to tune your own chip. There are a few pretty good mail order tuners out there that can get you 70-80% there. It's probably better than a stock 305 tune but NO ONE will spend the time and dedication on YOUR tune as you will. Besides there are too many conditions that a tuner can't anticipate. You kinda "just gotta be there" for the last 20-30% of a tune.
I contacted Brian at www.sales@tbichips.com for my "starter tune". He's seems to know these 3GC's and only charged around $125 for a chip. It was probably closer to the 80% range for me. Good luck, take your time, break her in right- then spank her like a bad girl!
Last edited by antman89iroc; Apr 29, 2008 at 01:34 PM.
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