if this is the wrong forum..sorry I figured since its a HSR...and you guys been working with me...

ok ive been working on this thing for the last year and im finally done and ready to crank it...I just thru on my old plug wires and will put the new ones on after breakin....
I need some up to date break-in tips....Ive never cranked a new motor...so help me out guys!!..please?

I still need to fill it with all the fluids...oil and water/anti ........

I need to know what is the procedure for cranking a hydraulic roller cammed motor.

do I put just all water or mix it as usual?..in the radiator

I know I need straight 30 oil....im going to get some cheap stuff from AZ...costal 30 wieght....cause im going to change it right after the breakin and I dont want to spend alot on the breakin oil...will that do?

anything I can set before I start it? like TPS, IAC, anything? if so are the settings the same as with my old TPI?


timing? I was used to looking at my stock balancer but I now have an ATI super damper, how the hell do I read that thing? which way and numbers are for advanced? ..LOL


I have the Kirban fuel pressure regulator and it now shows with the key on 38psi.....I read the directions that came with it and it say I cant raise or lower til the car is running with the vaccum off.....I tried the old TPI way and it didnt move..so they must be right...

I dont have a chip so I will be cranking off my old custom chip that I had with the TPI 305...which has the EGR removed. I forgot what else was done to it.....will that chip get me cranked?

this wil all be done with straight 1 3/4 super comps...dont have the exhaust run yet...



If theres anything else I add to this...





any tips! or anything Ive foregotten?


thanks guys!!

 

fire it up and drive it like you stole it. the only thing that needs to be broke in is the rings. everyone has a different way of doing that. total seal says the rings should be seated after one night of racing. so let her eat.

 

The mechanic who built my ol' high-compression 355 had me run it continuously at different RPMs (1500 to about 4000, if I remember correctly) for about 500 miles, he said that that would give a better seal with the rings. After that 500 miles, change the oil & drive it like normal..

I did as he suggested, & it lasted me for several years as my daily driver...

 

I wouldn't recommend firing it up and driving it like a retard....It's a brand new motor that prolly costed a pretty penny. Be very careful and attentive. Especially if You plan on running a 305 chip. You really oughtta get a custom chip burnt before turning that engine over. You wanna make sure Your timing, fuel pressure, and tuning parameters are within an optimal range before You go.... "Drive it like You stole It" I have a 383 that I plan on running with HSR, and Vortec heads. So I will be paying close attention to Your thread here.

 

guys I cant drive it...it has no exhaust and the car is not tagged....

that was funny...I cracked up when I read.."drive it like a retard"

So u think I cant even break it in with the 305 chip in it?...MAN!!.....I dont have the money for a chip right now...I dont plan to drive it till I get more money..I done brunt all my CC up!!!

what about breakin procedure?...just put oil in and crank it up? cant be that easy!....whats the setting for TPS, IAC..etc?.what about fuel pressure?

I did a search and come up with all kinds of ways to do it...but they are old..and im thinking a hydro roller cam is different from the searches I did...

oh this is a retro fitted roller if that changes anything.

 

Sounds like it's about time ta start pimpin some hoe's so U can get that chip!

 

The engine won't even run correctly with that 305chip...there is no way you can break her or set the timing properly without first getting the correct chip to run that new 383.

 

prime the oil system!!

 

I didnt prime it all all...will that be a problem?...I read somewhere on here that priming is not really nessasary...true? or not?

damnit!..I dont want to have to dip into my overdraft to get a new chip...LOL..but I will if I have to....seriously..it wont run right with the chip I have in it...not even to set timing and all?

I guess I'll give pcmforless a call...are they good?

 

priming helps because otherwise the oilpump is full of air, resulting in a dryout for maybe half a minute,,, plus it might airate your oil, also no good.
but its still not nessasary

im guessing its a 350 now? using a 305 chip wouldnt be to smart, dont penny pinch the last few details. you got a beuty of a motor,, givr what she deserves

 

its a 383..with AFR 195's...226/232 531/537 custom cam, 58mm TB,underdrive pullies, 1 3/4 super comps, hell I dont even know whats all in it...its been so long..

 

Chevy pumps are submerged, there's no air in them unless the pan is empty.

 

IMO priming a Chevy V8 is a waste of perfectly good elecricity. Beyond unnecessary, in a properly built motor. In an improperly built motor, it's merely useless; won't repair improper building. About all it is, is a "security blanket", intended to provide a nice warm fuzzy feeling.

Resist the urge to just "fire it up". Put the exhaust back on it. If it's not there, it's not ready to run yet. Finish the project. Fill it full of fluids. Set the timing to where it belongs (pretty easy to put the motor at the exact static timing you want, like 10° BTDC or whatever, then set the dist to be firing at EXACTLY that spot). Make sure everything is already assembled perfectly like throttle linkage and vacuum lines and all that. You gotta do all that sooner or later anyway, might as well be BEFORE you ruin something by not doing it, there's no benefit whatsoever to running the motor before it's really all complete. Get it to the point where it's READY: when you can close the hood, sit down, insert the key, turn it, and back out of the driveway and go for a spin. DO NOT dink around with half-assing a bunch of stuff and taking shortcuts, just so you can "hear it run". Bad idea.

 

yeah I hear ya!....I wont do it now till I get everything ready...I talked with LSRacingchips.com and he said not to crank it without the right chip in it...305 chip wont cut it...so Im going to get a chip from him...pcmforless was a ****....did give me any info about the chip he could do...LSR talked to me for a bout 30mins...


how do I set the timing without it running?...

are the TPS setting the same as TPI settings?

what kind of fluids you reccomend?


thanks for the help guys!

 

i seriously suggest you dont waste your money with mail order chips, youve got like 5000 in parts, spend the 500 bucks, tow the car to a shop with a dyno that can do custom tuning.

Theyll burn an initial chip that runs way rich to make sure they dont damage anything, from there they'll back off on the fuel until they get close.

They shouldnt really be running the motor over 3 or 4 grand.

Then once thats done take the car out and put around for a little while, a good couple days of driving is more then enough, personally i like the idea of having them put a rev limiter into the chip at around 3500 because you dont really want to go over that anyways.

then once the rings are seated you go back to them and theyll finish the tune for you. Run the motor flat out and find the peak of your powerband, have them dial everything in real nice, and put a rev limiter in where ever you see fit.

 

theres no where around here that does dyno tuning.....most people around here never even heard of a HSR.......Ive heard lots of good reviews about LSRacingchips....


I can set my rev limit anywhere I want..I have the Digital6 MSD box...so with the turn of a switch sets my max revs..

 

i gotta a 383 with dart heads. a solid roller cam 258-262 with 630 lift. i'm telling you fill all the fluids check the timing and go with it. i work at a toyota dealership as a mechanic. i got 5 ase's. i wouldn't tell you to do something that i wouldn't do. look at these guy's with these dragsters. alot of them run a standard small block or big block chevy. how do you think they break them in????

 

I'm getting my chip from LSRacing chips. They have done many engines almost identical to mine so Jayme is just sending me the chip he used on these engines and I am expecting it to be darn close. Actually my chip should be here in a day or so...

 

Check your PMs

 

Make sure your wires are not touching the headers, looks like #1 is just laying on it, could just be the angle of the picture.

 

What injectors are installed now? If they are the 305 injectors, it actually would run ok at anything light throttle, and maybe up to 3500 to 4000 RPM full throttle, on the 305 chip, as long as it's still the MAF setup, and the fuel pressure regulator is set to stock pressure or a little higher. Above that, you'll be maxxing out the MAF and Injectors, and possibly fuel pump. Get bigger injectors, some chip burning equipment.

Oh, it WON'T start well being the 87 MAF system on a HSR with no cold start injector. But, it might still start (and starting fluid could also be employed, as long as you spray it directly into the TB (not on the MAF), and reconnect the MAF / ducting before cranking).

Also, I'd prime the oil system and slowly rotate the engine 4 revolutions to get oil up to the valve train, through the filter, and to the main bearings. Every bit helps there. 10-20 seconds of dry running is not worth it, no matter how many people got years and years of service out of THEIR engine without priming.

 

i prime my engine on the stand to check pressure before it goes in the car. and then before i start it. and you could unhook the coil and turn it over before since you already have it pretty much together.

 

Sometimes I agree with you. Sometimes I don't. Here is one of those later times.

Although i've never heard of anyone having a problem by NOT priming, I've stood by many a friend and watched and waited and waited and waited and waited for oil to finally come out of the pushrods. Wondering, how much wear was happening to everything not being lubricated because air was working it's way out of the system.

On older style flat tappet lifters, we used to soak them in oil. Now Comp cam's says DO NOT soak the lifters, as oil can go on the other side of the plunger keeping them from compressing.

I'd prime it, along with fill the filter with oil, use a PH5 (1 quart filter) etc. I like the whole "crank the key, immediate oil pressure, immediate oiling of top end" idea.

-- Joe

 

Yea definately, I like for everything to be well lubricated especially on the first crank up. Its a very critical time in my opinion.

 

non-detergent straight 30 weight or High detergent straight 30 weight oil for break-in?

 

If it's a roller cam, no special oil required. You can go straight to synthetic if you want. That's what the factory does; and what I do. I figure if they (all of them) can get away with it millions of times a year and can warranty em for however many miles, it can't be too bad.

 

it is a roller motor....but I purchased 7 quarts of high detergent straight 30 wieght for the cost...Im going to dump it after I run it to get all the crap outta the motor...Im know there shouldnt be any but I just want to make sure..

so will it be ok to run what I got?..



I dont want to dump $7 a quart oil..ya know?

 

Yea that's fine, I would drive it for about a 100 miles and then change it.

Also, we need sound clips!

 

lol...cool? yeah I'll take a vid of the first start-up so I have it on VID blowin up....

 

how would I prime it the way your talking about? I dont want to remove the dizzy...if I dont have to....

guys Im sorry for all the questions but Im totally new at NEW motors and I dont want to **** up my investment.

now what about the TPS and the IAC? are those setting the same as my old TPI?

 

just take the power off the coil. or unplug the distributor wires. it should still turn over.

 

and that in a sense will prime the motor?...wont hurt it to turn it over like that?....I know dont just sit on it and crank and crank and crank.....

just a few times, corrrect?

 

turn it over untill you have oil pressure.

 

how will I know? by watching the gauge on the dash?

 

I just did a search for detergent oils....and someone said its bad to use HIGH DETERGENT OIL...and that is what I got....I guess I should take it back and get ND oil or just regular straight 30 wieght?

 

I use GM break-in oil everytime with my engines. Also, I would take off the dizzy, put a drill down it with a gear and let the oil pressure come up and through the pushrods, etc and then turn the engine over a few times with it still priming.

 

i use an ash based oil. valvoline. don't know why. just had good luck with it. it won't hurt the engine to turn over at 100 rpm's till the pressure builds up. it was turned over and over when it was built. no different turning it with a wrench than a starter. you can do wichever way you feel more comfortable with.

 

Don't worry about the oil.

I can't feature paying $7 a quart for oil. I can't even imagine what that might be, if it's not racing synthetic or something. Go ahead and use it. Or, return it and just get some regular Mobil 1 10W-30.

I wouldn't (and don't) pay the slightest bit of attention to 100-yr-old "old wives' tales" about what kind of oil to use in a new motor. Most of that is just left-over lore from days gone by, when parts were made out of very different materials. Like for example, you didn't "put in" main bearings, you melted the Babbitt metal and poured it into a mold that was installed onto the bearing saddle in the block and then reamed it to size. Those days are gone. And gone with them, is all that crap about non-detergent oil for break-in and all that other black magic talk.

The factory uses regular 10W-30 synthetic such as Mobil 1 as their fill fluid in new motors, which are just like yours, built out of the same parts and the same materials. They work fine with that. Their motors don't need an oil change until a normal oil change interval (although most of us can't build one that's as clean and free of various debris inside as they can, which is the only reason why we have to change ours sooner), they don't use any kind of magic special oil or additives, they don't pray to any special gods or perform any voodoo acts to ward off evil spirits. It's just a chunk of metal... definitely non-magical.

Don't get all wound up over this. It may seem like a giant leap of faith to you, and like a very scary cliff to jump off of, turning that key the first time, especially if this is the first motor you've built; but I can guarantee you, it gets done AT LEAST 20,000 times EVERY SINGLE DAY around the world. It's very common-place and ordinary. And VERY VERY FEW of those 20,000 daily new motor startups have any special oil or other magical and mysterious ingredients. And, the HUGE majority of them go on to live lifetimes of hundreds of thousands of miles over a period of decades, with no particular special effort on the part of their owners. Yours is no different.

I've gotten it down to a point that I put the motor in, assemble it completely, time it properly (I can usually set it before startup to within about 2° of where I want it), adjust the valves, glue the valve covers down (yes, I know how to adjust the valves, even if they're solid lifters, and get it right the first time every time); fill it with fluids, close the hood, and literally reach in the window and turn the key to start it. Then let it warm up, pop the hood and check the timing if I think I need to, and go for a test drive. Then put the car back into service, give it to its owner or whatever, when I get back from a spin around the block.

Change the oil after 500 to 1000 miles. The reason isn't something that the engine will do to it; rather, it's all the dirt, dust, shop towel lint, leftover bits of sealant, and all of that sort of stuff that got in the engine during the build process, contaminating it and plugging up the filter. In fact, you could leave it in there for a normal change interval, if you just change the filter and replace the quart or so of oil that comes out with it. That's what I do.

 

OK...Ive ordered my chip and got everything hooked up and ready to go....
my chip wont be here til next week....I cranked the motor over with the coil wire unhooked to get oil pressure and it came up to 65 or so psi's...
I hooked the coil wire back up cause I couldnt stand and and I wanted to hear it at least crank one time and I was going to cut it right off....

well it wont crank....why? cause its cold? dry motor? what? someone told me that Im going to have to prime it with ether?....

how come? why wont it just fire up? if its not one thing its another! damn all this crap!!!

is it normal for a brand new engine to not fire right up?

CC is 10:6-1 does that make it harder to crank?

Ive checked everything and its all good and correct.

 

ok..one thing I noticed is with the ECM...

you know how when you turn the key its suppose to blink once and then stay lite...well when I turn the key it just comes on without the blink...

Im outside trying to figure this **** out.....I got fuel pressure...its at 40psi
and I read somwhere that I can hook a timing light to it and see if its within the correct area....and the timing lite wont come on while Im cranking it...


any ideas?

 

Sound like you don't have spark getting to the plugs. You sure you have power running to the coil? My old friend once forgot to put the rotor back in the distributor.

 

coil is hooked up and rotor is in... ...as far as power going to it..how can I tell?

 

I figured it out!>.......I fried my ****in MSD box AGAIN!!!!!!......I bypassed it and hooked the plugs directly to the coil and it fired right up!...I let it run for about a min or so and cut it off.......DAMN DAMN DAMN DAMN!!!!..im going to wait till I get the chip and the new box to set timing and all....

I cant believe that I screwed up the box again!...I checked and checked to make sure that I had the plugs correct!...now I gotta buy another box...

 

Atleast you figured it out and it was an easy fix. I'll be firing mine up in a few weeks.

 

easy fix? hell...big time money fix more like it..them boxes cost a pretty penny!....now I gotta take all unroute all the wires cause I had it mounted inside the car. ..and I gotta see how uch MSD will cost to fix it.....they replaced my box the first time but that was 2 years ago...

I guess i'll just wait on my chip and box...so it will be another 2 weeks before I can get anything else done...

 

When you cranked it with the coil wire disconnected it probably flooded. That is if the coil wire was the wire to the distributor cap center post.

If you disconnected the power wire to the coil then it is OK. No juice to the coil is no juice to the ignition module, no DRP to the ECM, no fire the injectors.

MSD will repair units for low to no cost.

RBob.

 

Yeah I sent it off today....wont get there til Friday and then they said 12-14 business days or maybe sooner. If its repairable then it would be MAX $100 for both the box and the harness.."just something else to spend money on"

I did get it cranked and it ran for about 1 min then wouldnt stay idleing unless I kept my foot on it at about 1000rpms...Im figuring its because of the 305 chip?
when I checked "timing" it was at 10* so I backed it off to stock 6*..still nothing...TPS was at .55..couldnt do the IAC cause it wouldnt stay idleing low.
****** ****ER was loud!!! with straight long tubes..I cranked it at 1am Sunday morning...LOL>...Im sure the neigborhood liked that!

Anyways I guess I wont fire it back up till I get the LSRacing Chip.



Oh and for some reason I looked inside the filler plug and checked under the covers to see oil was splattered everwhere and it looked clean..I could see oil but not as much as I thought I would....Im guessing cause its just clean oil and clean motor.....
it was just odd not to see much oil.....I had oil pressure to 65-70.......so that should mean everything is circulating correctly?


Temp was at about just below 200* ...and the fan was running...When I did my thermo I put a 180* with the little holes in it to allow some flow.....and the problem is I only had my old hypertech fan switch for a 160* stat...so would that cause I problem?

LOL..I guess orther than all that everything else was OK...

 

i didnt see anything said about how lean this thing is gonna run i just finished a 355 with dart iron eagle platinum heads the stealth ram and the gm hot cam mine was so lean from the start it was scary if i were you id go into that chip and change the injector constant and go really mild on the timing curve.After i got some tuning done by a friend of mine im clicking off 109 mph 1/4 mile runs with a 2.4 60 foot time so theres alot of room for improvement. You combo should absolutly scream when you get it done and on the road hope you have plans for something besides the 10 bolt rear.....it wont last.

 

i cant believe you dont prime your new motors ! are you retarded or just thet lazy?

 

If you built it right, priming doesn't accomplish anything that doesn't happen in the first second or two after start-up.