I have a lt1 intake converted to sbc1.

The coolant lines are in the front of the intake. I want to put them in the rear. Now that the holes are already in the front, can I use the one hole on the passenger side for the coolant sensor? Anyone try this?
Wouln't it give a better reading closer to the intake?

 

I've thought of the same thing it seems to me there would be a faster more accurate response to the ECM. I have not done the LT1 mod yet but, I have an un-modded LT1 intake in the garage. I wish there were a way to use an EGR valve on it. I need it to pass emissions. I may try some of my fabrication skills. Maybe a remote EGR or change the angle of the LT1 valve. My emission insp. does not have to pass a visual but without it my Nox is about 765, with it about 118. Max is 785 or so. Did not mean to hijack your thread you have a good idea though.

 

Anyone do this?

 

i dont see why it shouldnt work. i'm doing my intake now and never thought of that. I'm goin with the temp sensor in the remote thermostat tho. but your idea seems to work.

as long as it has coolant flowing past it. which it should have in that head water port.

as far as length of wiring and speed of measurement, i dont think that matters how long the temp sensor wires are from the ecm. it just matters if the temps are appropriate to use by the remote T stat over the factory in the manifold position.

 

I've been an avionics tech on aircraft for 32 years and never saw wire length slow the flow of electricity. No I was talking about water flow. Possibly the sensitivity of the sensor to accurately gage water temp due to its location away from the head. Would coolant have a chance to cool a few degrees by the time it is sensed

 

anyone know what size threads the CTS is? is it 3/8" NPT? what do you tap the remote thermostat hole size for? cuz LT1intake.com says 1/2 NPT but its CLEARLY way to big just by looking at the coolant nipples i have compared to the CTS sensor in the manifold

 

Please don't post misleading information.
LT1intake.com says a 1/2" NPT tap was used.
Not that the CTS is 1/2" npt. Pipe taps are expensive.
Only one tap was purchased for the initial conversion done by John Millican. A 1/2" to 3/8" brass reducer was used for the CTS. Look closely at the picture and you will see it.
All thermostat housings I sell have the 4th hole tapped to 3/8" NPT.

 

LT1intake.com says
that was misleading. it implies the CTS is 1/2 npt

i never said anything about the CTS being 1/2 npt. i was wondering what size to tap the thermostat.

but thanks for the info. that should be all i need now to finish the conversion