1) The throotle bracket is about 1" more rearward than the SR (and I assume the factory setup). The throotle cable must make a sharp turn twice to make it to the square hole in the bracket. Will this be a sticking throotle problem for me?

2) The cam on my Edelbrock 52mm TB sits on the fuel fitting on the drv side. The only way I know to solve this is to grind down the fuel fitting. I need about 1/32" metal removed.

3) I need a reducer for the 1-1/2" coolant neck, down to 1-1/4". OR, should I buy 1-1/2" radiator hose and build up the neck on the radiator to 1-1/2"

4) How stupid!!! the holes for the throotle bracket are not the same as the factory threaded holes!!!!! I think the threaded holes in the HSR for the throotle bracket are 1/4--20. Well, back to the hardware store (they are getting to know me very well).

5) Does the TB sit any more forward than the SR?,,, I guess I will find this out tomorrow nite.

 

Really? I didnt notice my bracket sitting that far back? Any pics of how the cable is positioned?

I used a holley TB and had no problems, but my stock 89 TB hit the rail fitting. THe actual throttle lever that the cable wraps around, I had to cut that lever alittle to allow it to swing past the rail fitting.

How did you set up the rails? Regulator rail on the driver side?

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/alte...ealth-ram.html
Check out my post here in my stealth ram swap thread.
I bought summits adapter hose pieces for 7 bucks and used a 1 1/2" standard waterneck.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku


Wow, i used the stock bracket and bolts just fine. I dont recall any bolts coming with the kit or any new brackets , the HSR should be setup for stock TPI brackets.

I think its abit more REARWARD if anything. I had to stretch the crap out of my TPI snorkel to get it on the holley throttlebody, and i cant remember how the stocker fit. Dont think the holley is shorter than the stocker

 

#1 --- no pics yet,,, but the cable is going to have to make a good S curve.

#2 --- Yes, I setup the fuel rails per instruction; the long rail is the drivers side with the regulator is the rear.

#3 --- I am going to order the reducer. I knew that you did that.

#4 --- I am sure that I simply reused the factory bracket bolts over again when I installed the SR, but maybe I am wrong.

#5 --- I can deal with it if its a bit more rearward; recall, I am running my Mega MAF setup.

NEW: What about the fuel pressure gauge, what did you do? The provided valve does not work with my fuel pressure gauge. My gauge works with the factory pressure valve (whatever specs that is).

 

5...... yeah i forgot about that. you'll have no problem then

I bought summits 20 dollar liquid filled fuel gauge and a 90 degree fitting. I think that fitting is 1/8npt male to 1/8npt female 90 degree bend. The gauge has a 1/8npt male fitting. That way i could read fuel pressure at all times.

As far as the other stuff, i am not sure why its so difference compared to what i went thru. My cable brackets fit well, but i did have a slightly cracked open throttle. The cruise control cable didnt allow the TB to close all the way for some reason, maybe because the brackets are back abit farther? i'm not sure, but i took my dremel grinder to the bracket for the cruise control and it worked

 

Orr: looks like you bought a 90 degree fitting 1/8 npt male to female (HLY-26-69). Also I will buy the Summit fuel pressure 0-60psi gauge SUM-800160.

Will these two parts fix my fuel pressure gauge issue?

 

i have a professional products 58mm TB and it fits my HSR no prob. stock bolts for my TPI throttle bracket also works. i have no issues with fuel rail fittings/lines. i also have the same 90degree holley fuel pressure gauge adapter that screws into the fuel rail. and have the summit liquid filled fuel pressure gauge. bolts up fine. i also got the recomended mrgasket water neck. now i believe theres a dayco hose that will work to fit the mrgasket water neck and stock size radiator outlet.

 

your using a hand held gauge for TPI's shraeder valve? That is not a permanent mount correct?

My setup will read fuel pressure always and be permanent mount

 

Orr: my fuel pressure gauge is not meant for permanent hookup, but thats the way I used it. I screwed it on and tie wrapped the hose down to the steel rod running over the top of the AC evaporator(???). I simply left it mounted inside the engine bay. I am going to go your route; I think for the long run, its best.

curtomblckbird: looks like you have the same setup. thank you for your input.

 

yes it would be best. dont forget to get liquid filled or the engine vibrations will destroy/make the gauge hard to read.

i notice now on my fuel pressure guage thats mounted on the fuel rail that when set straight out it blocks 50% of the vacume fittings/coolant hose hookup to the side of the TB below the TPS. the gauge would have to be tilted/turned towards the firewall to get clearance if u where running the vacume hoses/coolant throught the TB. just food for thought

 

heres an old shot of my fuel gauge. 90 degree bend and the gauge, makes for plenty of clearance withthe TB connections

 

[quote=doc;4063490
#4 --- I am sure that I simply reused the factory bracket bolts over again when I installed the SR, but maybe I am wrong.
[/quote]

My TPI bracket bolts also did not fit the HSR, they seem to be a different thread pitch.

 

The HSR has 1/4"-20 threads for the throotle bracket,,, 3/8" length should work with a washer. The bracket is now mounted.

I received Summit Racing shipment, and now I have the 90 degree female male NPT fitting that goes into the fuel rail, and I have the fuel pressure gauge. This all mounts exactly like Orr shows above in his picture. Its a nice setup, thanks Orr.

I have solved the interference problem between the fuel coupler at the front of the driver side fuel rail and my Edelbrock 52mm TB. Some grinding on both has taken care of this issue.

Now I have an issue with the reach of the throotle cable; I have to extend it about
1/4". Right now its connected by mechanics wire!

 

verify your getting 100% open throttle when you press the gas all the way down, my throttle body is closer but not quite there. 95% open i think

 

The TPS reads 0.58V at closed throotle. I will need to check what the TPS has for full throotle.

Everything is mounted, hooked up, and whatever. It was soooo sweet when I turned the key for the first time snd the engine started right up. I have no leaks that I can find. However, when I try to set the static timing, as soon as I unhooked the EST wire, the engine dies. So what I did (I thought this was really stellar) was to turn the crank around to firing TDC then to 8* advance. I removed the dizzy cap and marked the position of the rotor. I put the cap back on and turn the dizzy so that #1 terminal was very close to the rotor tip. Well, the engine idles really good, but still will stall out as soon as I disconnect the EST wire.

What gives,,, any ideas?

BTW: I have burned 3 Eproms for it already. I am trying to get FTC 0 BLM close to 128.

Oh yea, one more thing,,, I can NOT close my hood!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Great news, I removed the hood and cut out a good deal of the underside reinforcement. Now I can close the hood!

 

figured that much, you'll have to cut the hood to get it to close right.

Timing, my 383 was doing that. I disconnected and tried to set base to 6-8 degrees like stock but it simply would NOT idle at that timing mark. So i made it 11 before it started to get pretty choppy. At idle my car needed 26 degrees and 950 rpm to be somewhat stable. Disconnecting the EST would kill idle quality. You just need to add more base and then adjust it in your chip

 

Well, now the engine runs very rough; as if I am back to where I was 6 weeks ago. The engine is hard to start and when it does run, it seems to be firing only on 6 or 7 cylinders. I once again turned the crank around the 8* advance timing, and set the #1 post of the dizzy where the rotor tip is located. I am at my wits end right now. This stuff can be so fustrating for me.

 

is your balancer and timing marks correct? i'd leave it closer to 10 degrees base timing. Get the motor to start properly and then adjust timing with the light

plug the number 1 plug hole with some paper towel, crank the motor over by hand till the plug pops out and then give it abit more to get it closer to TDC. Then set the rotor to number 1 on the cap.

Wire it all up and go from there. You can definately tell the difference if its not firing properly or not, like wrong firing order or something. Good luck with it

 

UPDATE: I thought that I would post an update on my trials with the HSR install. My latest issues was a rough running engine. I was not able to set the static timing because the engine would always stall out on me.

I discovered that my MegaMAF took a crapper, and was the root cause of all my engine problems from the very beginning. I had a complete factory air intake/MAF setup on the shelf, which I installed. The engine now is running very smooth and with a new Eprom, the BLMs are near 128.

So a lesson learned here. I first thought that I had a bad fuel injector or that the electronic module in the dizzy was bad. As it turned out, it was the MAF sensor. I feel like I should have discovered that it was the MAF sensor sooner than I did. I spent alot of money on this issue, but now I do have the HSR which I have been thinking about installing for the last 5 years. Happy trials again!

 

good deal i have always hated the MAF on these cars was so tough trouble shooting those things

 

Good deal, this thread was scarring me about installing an HSR on my car. But I have confidence that I pull it off again. Thanks for all of the updates on the issues to look out for.