but will using an ultra thin gasket be enough?

 

Enough to do what? Get you over 300hp? No but it's a step in the right direction.

Your Vortec Heads needs to flow at least 270cfm to make good power over 300hp. In fact you will make 350-380rwhp. Vortec Heads only flow about 220-230cfms. This is why the Vortec set up is not a good way to go.

 

Vortecs don't make power because they're big, they make power because they're more efficient. Porting them won't remedy the problem because it screws up the velocity effect of the stock ports. Flow is key to making power, if you want more flow buy a head that was designed to flow that much air. A ported vortec will make more power, but when compared to a similar head that was designed to flow that much you will see a difference. In the end it's just a production head, it's not an engineered race head, they had emissions in mind not all out power

 

Updates?

 

lloyd Elliot in Texas, told me milling the heads .020 usually gives you 3cc's less, not a big difference, just get heads with smaller chambers, I'm getting some RHS for my motor, 200cc intake runners, 2.02/1.60's, square exhaust ports, stiffer springs and a better flowing head over my worlds, he said I'll be pushing 450 horses on motor. I do have a custom ground cam, .555/.576 238/242 with 1.5's but I run 1.6's, I can't wait! Then its 175 shot time and then th350 trans/bigger stall

 

none here

 

i was just looking at the flow number on that head... did you relize they are flowed on a 4.200 bore?... they arent gonna flow very close to what they are advertising on a 4.030.
You might think about getting a head that flows better in the .500-.550 range i mean they "claim" 278 cfm But at .700 lift.. thats crazy lift for running anything but straight drag...

 

Peak numbers dont mean anything, be more concerned about .200-.500. RHS makes some good castings, they just really shine when a professional touches them up. IS lloyd doing the RHS porting or are you running them box stock?

 

I totally agree with that!

 

I should say, peak numbers dont mean anything unless your cam needs to be that high in lift to get the motor to do what you need it to do, else it doesnt really matter. If you can turn the rpm and make the power you want with .550", then peak flow at .700 is useless

 

Well I trust Lloyd Elliot, and he said it will boost my **** to over 440 hp on my same setup with these RHS heads

 

well with a good tune and a professional port job i can def see 440 ish at the flywheel with that size cam.. roughly 350 at the wheels. good thing your planning on ditching that 700R4 because it wont last.. trust me!

 

Not a bit misleading, no sir.

 

get some aluminum 23* Trickflow's. my 355 HSR loved them. just my

 

Valve springs are on, running something close to 15 degrees timing. Test drive and its still sluggish until about 2500rpms then it will get up and go and chew into second. Stills feels about the same, good, but like it wants to keep running farther uptop past 6k. Curious what timing you HSR guys are running, and you vortec HSRs.

 

Sounds like you need to run less timing, 6-8* should be good. Mine is set at 8* and feels very strong.

 

"Ran" the car with 6-8 timing. It hated it. Would barely run. Then it started spewing oil out the rear main seal onto the y-pipe and smoking. She's down again.

 

Are you getting any codes? Funny how it runs so crappy close to the stock setting, but iirc you have a "tuned" prom so maybe that's part of the reason for that. Last time I set the timing I had to reset the iac and tps so it would idle right

 

Not to mention that the oil pressure dropped significantly..

 

it should run perfectly normal... @ 8 Deg
but again the HSR loves timing!!!!!!!! 12 Deg is outstanding look up all the dynos & carcraft & hot rod projects
they all had great results from 10 - 14 deg!!!!!

 

After I turned the car off it would make a pressure release sound coming from under the car that would last about 4 seconds. A few minutes later it did it again. and then even a third time about 10 minutes after being shut off. Maybe why its leaking oil out the back of the engine somewhere.

 

It definitely was not running normal. It had barely any oil pressure, < 10 psi

 

yes I know that... I have followed... mentioned many issues... first off if this engine was gone through before adding a conversion... it would be RUNNING normal... moral is... get the base running proper........

 

Hey my damper fron NAPA the better unit, tossed 4 rods in my L98. SO now I'm buying a 010 4bolt main block, all forged internals, wiseco domed 13.5:1 compression, lol this things gonna be 700 hp. Then run my custom cam with solid lifters, and I'm gonna put my HSR on this motor, intake ports are still 1205's even though there 235 runners lol. This is gonna be sweet! I'll add pics of my motor, its bad, and a hell of a boat anchor, lol.

I see most of you run this HSR intake on stock bottom, ends, mines destroyed, ruined my stock block, so "could" hurt its values, well now I'm going crazy. These problems you guys are having are like lame *** bit*h problems. If you build it right, you shouldn't have any problems, but then you need an Ed Wright tune, and know how to dial in the timing, 8* isn't **** 10* isn't **** 13-14.5 was best for me, but I ran regular and made over 375hp, so I think you need to build some better **** guys, no offense, but you don't need to come on here to figure out a problem unless your not that smart

 

Could it be crank case pressure making the noise? Where's the noise coming from? I know its been a while, but worth looking into. Sorry to hear about your troubles, hang in there, you will get it figured out

 

WTF? Non of this makes sense

 

Yeah, I'm only ASE certified, degreed and have built some good motors. I see my engine needed some newer stronger parts, & I apparently had more power than the rods could handle, oh well? New motor time. No offense, HSR motors are great

 

Wow, the real cronsform comes out! Sorry bro but I use this site for any help I can get. I'm not a car junky or a backyard mechanic with the degrees that go along with it like you. I go to school and work more than full time and have a life outside of cars so I'm still learning, and trying not to pay someone like you to help me either. If you want to get all out of line do it somewhere other than my thread. I'm slowly trying to figure this piece of crap out with the materials and resources I have and highly appreciate all the guys that are throwing ideas out there for me.

 

Not running a stock bottom end here and would never buy a parts house damper, just asking for trouble. Most of us dont want a car with 13.5:1 compression or 700hp. Don't get pissy on here about your own problems. As he said, he don't do this all the time, so please excuse him for asking a couple questions. Its our responsability to help, not rag on him over a simple thing. Are you going to start a build thread? If so, I'm going to watch the beast you're planning on building!

 

Im not knocking any ASE person.. but just because someone can pass a test doesnt mean they are good at turning wrench's... i myself am also ASE certified in a few different areas.. with a Degree from UTI/NTI .. ppl just have to learn.. and enjoy working on cars

 

Yeah, my school took almost all the skills places in washington, my dads gto was in the homer glen paper, my formula was in the towns modifed Tv show. I will have 10.96:1 on my cast iron headed motor, it will be in the 550hp range, on pump gas. Some of these problems, are easy to find. When theres a problem, go about what ever you need to do, to find the solution to the problem! I paid for my school and also got some grants for Joliet Junior College, look at my site and my iroc and see what you think. My formula was faster than the 91firehawk noted on thirdgen.org I already cut a 3.96 0-60, and ran 13.2's at 103, slightly faster than the firehawk. On a low compression motor, my L98 failed do to a damper issue but I also saw a fastener snap, which means it was over torqued, and finally let go, all in call, cosing 4 rods, lol. Now I'm going forged 350!

 

Anyone can study for a test .I'm ase certified also and it means nothing. I learned just as much turning wrentches with my father. Tech school just helps with getting jobs.

 

Hey I had my formula before I went to school and put my dads car in the homer glen illinois paper, also before I went to school. Anyone can throw heads and an intake on a car, few make them run well, just sayin. I'm done with this thread.

 

I'm thinking about installing a HSR intake on my 87 Formula. Just wanted to make sure it will fit under the stock hood. Will it fit? Next question. I've got a 383 with AFR 190 heads, SLP 1 3/4 headers, 2800-3000 stall, 700r4 trans, 3.27 axle ratio. Any recommendations on a good cam profile. I currently have the SuperRam intake and matching 219 camshaft. Thx.

 

won't fit, you will have to cut part of the hood support

best regards

 

24lb/hr injectors are plenty big for a 350 . You will need to get it tuned around that. You shouldn't need any bigger than 22/lb really.

 

The answer is in the tuning. Get it tuned

 

Thanks for the info. How do you like your HSR intake? Still thinking about it or a mini ram. I just pulled the head on mine and had a broken piston. So kind of looking to change things up some. The car went 12.30's with my SuperRam. Looking to see if I can get down into the 11's with maybe a cam and intake change. I have read that extrude honeing the base intake on the SuperRam can be quite benificial, so I might just go that way. Thx.

 

Hows it goin 86camaroZ? Did you get the problems resolved?

 

Na man only got worse. Cars been at the engine builders, he's going through the whole thing. Hoping to have it done in a couple months. New custom grind cam, patriot heads, hsr intake still and bigger converter. Will keep ya posted.

 

Hope you get everything straightened out, I love my vortec setup. I'm trying out the afr 912s now

 

Timing was out, she starts now and has a high idle... 3500 -4 K. won't come down. Thoughts?