I have 2 T-rams. One is a friends an its stock. I have chucked mine up in the mill to remove some aluminum . Im shortining the runners internally quite a bit. If ya watch the Firehawk vid real close (@2:07-8) you'll see some of what Im doing.. Its going to sit on top of ported aluminum vet heads due to wanting a clone Hawk.
I have some cam ideas but let the suggestions fly.Keep in mind its also speed density.
I tend to cam them up more than the next guy but havent done much w SD motors.
Im close to putting this in my 92 formula 350 w a 6sp and dana44.

 

So...you have one T-Ram intake?

Which video are talking refering to?

Hogging one out interests me, keep us posted. Keep in mind the devider wall are really thin, and if mine is similar to yours, there was some core shift and there isnt enough material there to work with to align with some heads.

I couldnt get a straight answer out of SLP as far as the exact cam specs they used. I went with a .488I .509E 212 / 224 HD roller with the last heads and it was a solid runner. I am sure with a little more fine tuning it would have run with or bested a FireHawk. I still have the cam if your interested.

 

Hey man, welcome. I think you and I are going to have very similar cars. I have a 91 GTA with the SLP T-RAM. I have 2 of them actually. I had one get the intake corners welded to add some extra meat to them and then port matched to a Felpro 1205 gasket. I'll be running it on top of Trickflow 195 heads with the TPIS ZZ409 camshaft. I'm also running SD and am starting to tune it with Ford 39lb Lightning injectors. So far, it's already proving to be a real B**** but it should scream. The transmission is a 700R4 with a Vigilante 2600rpm stall converter.

I have pics of my ride here:
http://www.nythirdgen.com/MembersRid...llandHyde.html

 

You need more cam

 

This is the vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYrI_NhpFAI

I have 2 of the 3 cams SLP made, smallest and largest along with 2 diff articles that talks about the cam used n the hawks buuut they have diff numbers listed in each story. I also had Firehawk number 13 in my garage 4 almost a yr. The GM hot cam kit that I just put in my friends 91 hawk clone sounds real close to the hawk cam.
Im thinking semi high lift .600 and 240ish dur on a 110 or 108

 

240's with .600" on a 350? I think you are asking for trouble Thats a cam I'd run in a 383, almost max effort type setup.

The hawk was rated at 350 hp. I dont know the head specs on the hawk but it wouldnt take much cam to get to that hp level. Something around hotcam size 218 deg or so intake duration is about where I'd put that SLP hawk cam. Probably smaller, 212-214 or so, since a hotcam on half decent heads will do over 330whp and thats closer to 380 crank hp

 

Yup! Ive run bigger cams in a 305.. but never with SD computer
I like trouble
The heads will be the biggest restriction in this setup when im done unless i do 2"valves 8mm valvestems, offset intake rockers, lifters and some welding on the heads. Which isnt a prob..

 

You can get good flow out of them with alittle porting and a 2.02" valve. Alot of time and money to spend on an old iron casting but if you want to keep it OEM type build, then thats your only option.

Did the firehawks have any special head work done or did they just use stock heads machined for lift of the cam?

 

The hawks used aluminum vette heads as I will be. They have a 2"valve and upgraded springs with some port work.

 

Cool. They make for some good heads ported out and with 2.00 valves. I was gonna send a set to Lloyd Elliott for one of his LE2 type port build ups on those heads for a heads/cam L98 but I decided to build the 383 with AFR's

 

Very cool! Trying my d*mnedest to keep this a mild street build while looking 100% stock firehawk looking but its very hard. I just want to mod every part i get my hands on 4 more power. Also running a 4 bolt 350 vortec truck short block with a quicky freshen up because im going to run the peeeeeee out of it. I have a aluminum rodeck block like some of the hawks had that may wind up in it some day!

 

Its easy to start going bigger and better on parts once you start a build I know this all to well. A good port job on those heads with the right sized cam, nothing TOO huge but decent cam size will work well with that intake. I dont know what the T-ram flows but if its on par with a superram, you got some hp in there. I'd still stick with a 230 deg cam or so on a 355. Thats a good street/strip duration with those heads and that intake rpm range. I like how it worked on my buddy's HSR 360" motor.

 

I am in the process of building a 355 with a stealth ram for my 92 Z vert. I would like it very driveable but still around 350 to 400RWH since it will be a cruiser. What cam, heads etc did he use and how much power and driveability. I have the shortblock done with a stock GM steel crank, 6" eagle H beam rods and forged slightly dished pistons in case I want to add a supercharger later. I have a be cool radiator already installed and a new 700R4 with 13 vane pump and all the goodies waiting on me to finish the motor. The head and cam combo still has me guessing but I already have a stealth ram with the kirban regulator less injectors since I am not sure what size I will need.

 

He had a .060" over 350 L98 motor with stock rods/crank, rebuild pistons and compression was likely mid 9's to 1. AFR 190cc heads (old school) and comp cams 08-467-8, 280XFI cam. 230/236 .576/.570 113 lsa. Its an aggressive sounding cam in that motor but drives well. Tuned well with MAF sensor, would take abit of time to get SD right I'm sure but should be doable.

A good set of 195-200cc heads like the new AFR's, Profilers, Dart Pro 1's, or Brodix Race Rites could do the trick but you need good springs for that cam. 150lbs onthe seat, 380-400 open. Basically an LSx based small diameter double spring like Patriot Extreme Golds, AFR 8019 springs, etc. He had horrible valve float over 5700 rpms with springs that were old and probably had 110lbs onthe seat and 320 open pressure. Just not enough to get it done. Even with that it made 330whp by 5600 rpm before dropping off.

If he had new springs, it would be a 350whp car easily carrying power to 6500 rpm. If he had AFR 195 eliminators, it would be 375whp car more than likely.

Car wants 10 to 1 or higher compression if you can get it but mid 9's will work ok. Car needs 3600 stall/3.73 gear... he ran 3.90's with 28" tire tho. 3.90's is a good gear too even with 26" tires. Car wants to rev up

 

I have access to some ported track 1 heads but I will have to shave them to get the compression up. I also have some 2210 super comps I could use. The rear is a 327 9 bolt PBR posi. What kind of idle quality did he have and who could burn me a chip? It would be convienant if someone had an existing set-up who had there tune down cold so I could just copy it for my speed density car. Sure would simplify things.

 

Unfortunately thats the problem with these cars...nobody really tunes them anymore. I dont know of any shops doing it and there is only so much a mail order tuner can do.

Idle was lopey/choppy but stable. Cruised nicely. Sounded very strong and aggressive.

 

Do you tune? If so, what do you reccomend equipment wise for someone who will have these cars the rest of his life. I have three and want a GTA or two in the near future. All of them will be modified. I guess I need equipment that I could use at the drag strip between rounds dialing the car in. My wife is a Microsoft computer engineer so I have help but I would like to get the best equipment out there since it usually makes it easier. I am also interested in a turbo set-up like you seem to have. Turbo's are the most efficient power adder there is and tuning that must be a nightmare. A list of tuning equipment would be helpfull especially what you have or some of the others.

 

I've tuned a few cars, some thru email, some in person. I recommend tunerpro RT and get moates.com ALDL cable, Burn2 programmer, and GP1 package chip adapter. Will run about 250 bucks total, you can download tunerpro RT for free although they recommend you register it for 30 bucks.

With this simple setup, I have been able to tune my 383 motor and my 401 twin turbo setup and basically all the other cars i've helped on. MAF is relatively easy to tune compared to speed density map setups like the turbo car. It took awhile to figure out the twin turbo setup since I didnt have a good base to start with. That software is proficient enough to tune that car but it be better to go aftermarket and run something like bigstuff 3 or FAST XFI or something. You get better resolution and finer fuel control with sequential.

OR you can convert to LS1 type ECM and stuff and then you can have any of the late model shops tune your cars. Not exactly cheap but is an option comparable to FAST XFI/BS3/etc.