Well after 3 years of holding onto this intake I finally went ahead and installed it with a AS&M mono-blade throttle body. Must say she sure looks sweet in there, and so much easier to install then a LTR setup. The only thing left is to figure out what to do with the MAT sensor and tuning of course.

I am thinking of getting a LT1 intake sensor with the grommet and using that in the soft hose I have for the supercharger piping, anyone have any other ideas?



Anyways a little video clip of the first startup http://s293.photobucket.com/user/mrb...Video.mp4.html

+ D1SC? Gonna look awfully familiar :thumbs:

Thanks! Yup with D1SC, just finishing off some loose ends before I have everything back on.

Who did your tune? You? Given that you are usig 60lbs dekra injectors, is it a blowerworks tune?

I do all my own tuning, I'm using 730 ecm with the code59. Not sure what you mean by blowerworks, never heard of them.

Interesting so you use Code 59. I have a buddy that bought a car from someone here with a 383/HSR/P1SC and I'm having probs w/ it. Can I pick your brain sometime? Could you maybe send me a screenshot of your fuel and timing maps? I have a feeling that car has all the maps shifted because of an incorrect rpm input. The needle is all over the place and too high and when I hook up an MSD box it is super lean but rpm is steady. Have a feeling tuning was done w/ just the WBO2 and as such the whole stuff is shifted up because of the too high rpm signal in relation to what it really is. It also won't run in the seperate idle table (yes turned it on) because most likely that only works under 1200?? rpm and the tach signal is at least 2200 at idle (wrong)

Sure no problem though I have to admit I'm not a tuning guru by any stretch. It's been 3 years since I touched my tune so I have to relearn everything again when I go play with this MiniRam.

Think your buddy needs to check what its showing in the computer for the idle rpm and see if its really doing what it says on the tach. I don't believe I have the other idle turned on on my bin but if your buddy wants to have a look at my bin and compare go ahead. Its for 60lbs injectors and with a TPI intake.

Well I went ahead and picked up a 95 camaro IAT sensor and picked up a nice little grommet in the help section for it, think the pic's will explain everything. I also used a 11/16 drill bit too.

I took the car out for a ride for the first time, acceleration enrichment needed some major work, I couldn't imagine not being able to tune for this and expect the car to run proper. I can definitely feel a loss in torque then before, but this is with the long tube runner tune so I'm hoping this will get better as I put more work into it. I also did one quick run in 3rd up to 6200 rpms, the AFR difference was about 1-2 higher and was into the low 13's. I'll report back once I get some more tuning done

I drilled and tapped the underside of the right fuel rail then bolted my MAP sensor straight onto the fuel rail. Just don't drill too deeply.

My MAT sensor is installed within the main plenum in the very back, next to the distributor. Is there any reason why (or why not) one location might be better than the other for making accurate air temperature measurements?

Here's an old photo of my miniram, btw. I don't know that I've ever uploaded it to the internet before. It shows the eight thermocouples that were sampling individual cylinder temperatures during tuning.

http://ws6transam.org/egt.jpg

I like that MAP location, it's about the only thing left I got to clean up, thanks for sharing.

For the MAT sensor, I guess a argument can be made for both locations but in the end it's all about your tuning I believe. Does make for a clean install taping into the miniram itself though.

I'm curious about your results with the thermocouplers, did you notice a unbalance in the cylinders?

Man, I have watched your car for years and it keeps getting better!

Please post a wide open throttle blast on youtube or something when you get it all tuned.

Really makes me miss my ProCharger.

Hey thanks man! I'll have to get something up for sure, just hope there is a improvement in performance cause I do feel a big loss in torque, AKA the fun factor

I don't remember exactly the data, but there was about a hundred degree difference between the hottest and coldest cylinder, as I recall. It was related to position, not bank. I think middle cylinders (3,4,5,6) got the most air, but I'd have to dig deep to find the data, which I never got around to using because I still run my FAST XFI as a batch fire system. I'd need to convert to full sequential before I could fool with individual cylinder fuel trim.

It was interesting to watch idle temperatures and wide-open throttle temps: At idle, EGT was 700(ish) degrees F, and at wide-open throttle, I recall it being in the 1200 - 1300 deg F range. I'm told that racing turbo applications would sometimes peak at 1700, and since aluminum melts at 1221 degrees, heat management was pretty important: Hence, the use of ceramic thermal barrier coatings which slow down heat transfer into the piston crown so that the oil spray can carry away the excess heat.

Interesting about the temps, is that inline of what others were finding for the intake and what would a 100* difference equal in AFR you think?