Anyone Seen Twist A Dent?
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From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Anyone Seen Twist A Dent?
There was this infomerial on about Twist A Dent. Basically you put this sticky stuff on a small disc and put it in the middle of the dent and then attach this device that pulls it out. Costs $30, anyone seen it or think it might work for me?
This is the best pic of the dent I have on this computer.
This is the best pic of the dent I have on this computer.
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Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Portales, NM USA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Scam.....
Don't waste your money Mark. When you re-watch that commercial watch a little closer. It has two suction cups on the outer edges and pulls the dent from the middle.
If you look real close you can actually see it put 2 new dents where the suction cups were and it warps the panel.
Don't waste your money Mark. When you re-watch that commercial watch a little closer. It has two suction cups on the outer edges and pulls the dent from the middle.
If you look real close you can actually see it put 2 new dents where the suction cups were and it warps the panel.
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From: Cherry Hill, NJ
Car: 92 Trans Am 'Vert
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 Speed
Mark, why dont ya take the wheel well cover out, and get to it from the inside? Ya might be able to gently work it out!
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird, flat black
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Well you could either take the panel off and push out the dent, but you might have streched the metal. In that case you would have to take it to a body shop and have them shrink the metal. But it might just be better to buy a new one. The only other thing that might work, is to take a plunger to it and see if you cant pull it out. Just a thought.
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From: Paris, Tx. USA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: TH350
Yeah that thing is bogus.
Mark does a really nice job of hiding those dents, so do I.
He's starting to come around, he's really trying to ask us how to get the dent out, without actually asking. Nice tactic if you ask me. He has to protect the 5,000+ post reputation you know.
I'm just messin' witcha Mark.
Get a new fender, would be my advice.
Mark does a really nice job of hiding those dents, so do I.
He's starting to come around, he's really trying to ask us how to get the dent out, without actually asking. Nice tactic if you ask me. He has to protect the 5,000+ post reputation you know.
I'm just messin' witcha Mark.
Get a new fender, would be my advice.
OK, here's the lowdown. I have recently changed careers from being an Internet Network Engineer to Paintless Dent Removal. The dent you have is beyond that tool. I do use a tool that pulls dents by applying hot glue to a plastic clip then pulling the clip with a dent puller, but it is only used on dents that are not easily accessible and as a last resort. The system they are showing you will work, however, there is more to it. Metal is stretched when it gets dented. Nothing will ever allow it to just pop back out. Not dry ice or a heat gun either. The puller they are using will lift the dent, but the damage will still be there. The metal needs to be massaged back to it's original state. This includes light hammering to "move" the metal around. The only thing these $50 commercially advertised tools will work for is lifting a dent. They will not "fix" the dent. My recommendation is to get a new fender. That fender is beyond the scopes of PDR. The time involved in PDRing that dent will be more than buying a new fender!
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From: Rowlett, TX
Car: 1988 GTA
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt, 3.45
I would jsut get another junk yard fender and get it painted to match. You could get a slide hammer and try to pull the dent out and then bondo it smooth, but since the "line" in the center, where the trim piece goes, it pushed in, that makes it alot harder to get straight looking.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
I have no problem getting a fender from a junkyard, but right now I can't afford to have the paint matched. Anyone have any ideas how much that would be.
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From: Portales, NM USA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Mark,
If you went to a "generic" bodyshop that uses Mitchell Program your estimate would be:
$ 721.64 - That is a new GM Fender GM PART 12391261 ($265.00) and blending into your driver door.
The Paint and Materials account for $ 141.05. Keep in mind that our local tax (6.375%) is included and $5.00 hazardous waste disposal.
You could save by buying a used fender, however it will need need some prep work and maybe fixing a ding or two.
If you got a used fender for say $50.00 your overall price would drop to around $500.00 providing your nameplate and moldings could be reused and then you would have to add any prep and repair to this.
Just a rough idea.
If you went to a "generic" bodyshop that uses Mitchell Program your estimate would be:
$ 721.64 - That is a new GM Fender GM PART 12391261 ($265.00) and blending into your driver door.
The Paint and Materials account for $ 141.05. Keep in mind that our local tax (6.375%) is included and $5.00 hazardous waste disposal.
You could save by buying a used fender, however it will need need some prep work and maybe fixing a ding or two.
If you got a used fender for say $50.00 your overall price would drop to around $500.00 providing your nameplate and moldings could be reused and then you would have to add any prep and repair to this.
Just a rough idea.
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Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
$500 OMG, forget that. It's not that big of an embarassment. I would just get a fender and have a cheap paint job done on the whole car for that price. Just something to last a couple years.
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Republic of Western Canada
Car: 1986 Sport Coupé
Engine: 305-4v
Transmission: 700R4 and TransGo2
Just take the toilet plunger to it and see what happens. What have you got to lose? If it comes out fairly well, then try your body work skills. If you take enough time, it will come out looking perfect.
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From: Pekin, IL
Car: 91 Formula, 79 Trans Am, 72 LeMans
Engine: 305 TPI, 6.6, 350 Pontiac
Transmission: T5, 3 speed, TH350
What I would do is to get a used fender and have a paint place match you paint and put it in an arosal (sp?) can and just spray the fender. I should look good from 5 feet away, maybe even better. Ive done that with my LeMans before. Just my 2 cents
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Republic of Western Canada
Car: 1986 Sport Coupé
Engine: 305-4v
Transmission: 700R4 and TransGo2
Originally posted by Mark A Shields
I've tried a plunger it won't stick to the dent.
I've tried a plunger it won't stick to the dent.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
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From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
But the guy above said matching the paint would cost some serious money, are you talking about not matching the paint. How much would a dent puller cost to rent? Sorry, I'm at college right now or I would check around.
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 735
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From: Portales, NM USA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Mark... save your money and your time until you can get it done right or until some heavily insured ol' lady backs into your fender.
A "professional" dent puller is called a bodyman. Those screw in and yank it out days are over. The quote I estimated you was a professional job with original parts and a base coat/ clearcoat paint job. In other words you would never know you had an accident or that your car had been damaged.
Your car looks otherwise very nice. The last thing I would do to it is slap some bondo on it or spray it with a can or get a cheap paint job. Usually when those types of jobs come in they get charged extra........ because you have to first remove the amateur work .... then do it right.
The dent is a little more complex than beat it out and go. You have metal stretch, further it's right on a contour, additionally your fender is misaligned with your door.
Save your bucks, time, and trouble......... til' later.
A "professional" dent puller is called a bodyman. Those screw in and yank it out days are over. The quote I estimated you was a professional job with original parts and a base coat/ clearcoat paint job. In other words you would never know you had an accident or that your car had been damaged.
Your car looks otherwise very nice. The last thing I would do to it is slap some bondo on it or spray it with a can or get a cheap paint job. Usually when those types of jobs come in they get charged extra........ because you have to first remove the amateur work .... then do it right.
The dent is a little more complex than beat it out and go. You have metal stretch, further it's right on a contour, additionally your fender is misaligned with your door.
Save your bucks, time, and trouble......... til' later.
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Republic of Western Canada
Car: 1986 Sport Coupé
Engine: 305-4v
Transmission: 700R4 and TransGo2
Originally posted by MikeInAZ
A "professional" dent puller is called a bodyman. Those screw in and yank it out days are over. The quote I estimated you was a professional job with original parts and a base coat/ clearcoat paint job. In other words you would never know you had an accident or that your car had been damaged.
The dent is a little more complex than beat it out and go. You have metal stretch, further it's right on a contour, additionally your fender is misaligned with your door.
A "professional" dent puller is called a bodyman. Those screw in and yank it out days are over. The quote I estimated you was a professional job with original parts and a base coat/ clearcoat paint job. In other words you would never know you had an accident or that your car had been damaged.
The dent is a little more complex than beat it out and go. You have metal stretch, further it's right on a contour, additionally your fender is misaligned with your door.
How is it that people have been doing these sort of repairs for as long as cars have been around, but NOW it is insufficient? If you don't have the money to pay a master body man, why not do it yourself? People have dealt with stretched metal for decades by pounding or pulling the dent out until it is just about the right shape, but just below the proper countour, and then bring the correct shape around by using a little bondo.
Matching the paint is now an easy process. They use a camera and computer program to match it extremely well.
It is up to you Mark. If you feel up to the challenge, then go for it! If not, check around for some technical colleges in your area that have a body man course. They will do the repair for the cost of materials, and be glad for the project for their students to learn on. And trust me, the kids at the school would love to hone their skills on a 3rd gen. With the instructor looking over their shoulders, it will come out PERFECT
UMD thats where I go, we'll have to meet up sometime when you come down
good luck with the fender, I had to replace mine awhile back, wasnt to bad and since Im a poor college student I had to ride around with it spray painted for a couple weeks till I saved up some $$$ to get a real paint job
Last edited by Z288Iroc; May 5, 2002 at 10:20 PM.
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From: Bristow, VA
Car: 91 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Z288Iroc
I'll be a Junior in the fall, you'll love this school man, its alot of fun down here, no pics right now but I'll borrow my roomates digital camera and take some this week
I'll be a Junior in the fall, you'll love this school man, its alot of fun down here, no pics right now but I'll borrow my roomates digital camera and take some this week
Where in MD are you? I am in Owings Mills. Which Campus are you at?
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From: Bristow, VA
Car: 91 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Makaveli
i got 2 straight gm fenders, and a whole font nose including bumper cover, reinforcement, headlight panel, and everything for my 86 off a parts car for $150
i got 2 straight gm fenders, and a whole font nose including bumper cover, reinforcement, headlight panel, and everything for my 86 off a parts car for $150
You really cant tell but there is a little more damage. THe brace that holds the lower portion of the fender didnt move so it buckled the bottom of the fender out about an inch. and there is a sligh crease coming off of the wheel area. Above my head to fix I think...
oh dude, i didnt mean i was selling it! im sorry if it sounded like that lol i was just postin to show u how cheap they are available for if u find a good parts car. unless i read it wrong n ur not askin to buy them... ah im confused but yea im going to install the new pieces on mine, sell the car n go get a V8.
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From: Bristow, VA
Car: 91 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Mark A Shields
Oops, read it wrong.
Oops, read it wrong.
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