i plan to get the flush-mount handles before i paint my car by middle of july but -

1) which car/truck/van would it be best to get them from?
2) how much will it cost to have a body shop cut off the current stock ones and weld on the "new" ones?
3) do you have pics of a car that had this done and what handles they used?

 

There is a guy on here that is doing it himself. I think it looks pretty cool. I'm not sure what car he got the handles from, but I like the mid-90's Dodge Intrepid handles. They are flush, and not very ugly in my opinion.

I guess:
1. Just browse around to find what you like.
2. Probably not cheap since you will most likely have to have a custom shop do it for you.
3. Don't know where you can find any pics....sorry.

 

Yeah, deadbird did this mod on his Firebird.. looks really nice. I think he used Neon handles, but don't quote me on that.

 

Just go to the local mall and walk around the parking lot lokking at handles until you find one you like. Some four door cars have better looking handles on the back doors.

 

Yeah, I'd love to do this with Chevy Malibu handles (same as the new Vettes') but deadbird said it's too expensive to HAVE done. Unless you can do it yourself, it ain't worth it (unless your loaded, of course). He used Intrepid handles (94ish?) but they're the same ones on the Neons. We have to do something about the ugly GM crap!!! Man, I wish someone made some sort of kit... make it easy on my lazy a$$!

 

Yep.. dat be my turd I'm putting new handles on

The handles are off a 92(±2yrs or so) Intrepid but, also come on Neon's & I believe Sebrings or Concords of similar years.

Unfortunatly.. I can't really see something like this being a 'kit' due to it not being a simple hand tool's job (although... it could feasably be close to one if done right.. i.e.... no welding really required)

Honestly though.. if I didn't really like my car.. i would have neveer started the swap.

(I will finish it one of these days tho.. I swear lol )

 

Lookin Sharp.

 

Hey, deadbird, how would you do it w/o welding? Just find a handle that's bigger than the hole left from removing the stock one and enlarge the hole to pop in the new piece...? I THINK a very flat headed screw could be used to attach the top panel to the backing panel and then use a skim of body filler to hide the screw, but welding is probably more permanent...

 

there ya go, nothign better thaN A half as$ job

 

Actually Mike, he's not far off from correct. Unless you have the answer to help him as well, I'd suggest you keep your comments, as above, to yourself since, A) you weren't addressed in the question and B) He didn't ask to be critiqued about what he though would be an alternate to welding.

The reasons people ask questions when they don't know how to approach a project is to keep from doing a 'half-azed' job as you so quaintly put it. Unless you're helping, you're only hindering and it's rare I see you helping much on these boards....

Using self drilling screws (or regular) with a 45º bevel head (similar a drywall screw).

Clamp the backing piece in place, drill holes thru the outer skin & the backing plate, chamfer the hole slightly & put the power to the screw. When finished, take a hard wheel grinding disc to knock the heads of the screws down (don't dig or you lose the purpose of chamfering the hole). Finish flush with a soft disc then skim over with bonder or a few good coats of filler primer (depending on the mess you made of the hole).
That's kind of a general overview of the way I'd do it (since it's proven effective). I'm sure others would do it different but, everyone has their own methods & ways.

It makes an extremely well, no heat/warp bond and is quite permanent unless it gets bashed. It's not quite as permanent as welding but, the holding power is similar.

The one big drawback is it takes more time to do because of drilling holes.
A plus is, if you don't like the alignment, all you have to do is unscrew it.

 

I have the Hot-Rod Magazine book about their camaro projects
over the years. They did a flush mount door handle mod on a
1984 camaro. I believe they used a late 80's early 90's chevy
truck handle. It looked really nice when they were done. They
did have to weld the connecting rod from the new handle to the
original one in the camaro door.

 

Just to confirm your statement earlier deadbird: Yes, Concorde door handles are exactly the same as the Intrepid ones

 

Hey Jim.. thanks for confirming my grey matter is still working for the most part

 

Might want to try riveting instead of screws, not pop rivets, solid rivets that you have to shoot and buck. Then just shave the heads flush, no filler needed if you shot them right.
Or just loose the handles all together and go with the smooth look.

~M~

 

Morley.. even then, unless you chamfer the holes.. just as a screw, a rivet is just as weak.

 

No, if you countersink the holes for the rivets it will be just fine and you'd be using monel steel rivets, not aluminum.

Weak? Hardly, airplanes are shot together with rivets, and have been for decades, they are plenty strong and withstand pressures that a car can't.

~M~

 

Ok.. you're right.. a contersunk rivet would be as strong. We're on the same level.. just using different terminology.

I'm not into planes but, I do believe the heads of the rivets are not gounrd flush with the skin. W/o a contersink (chamfer) a rivet or screw will only have the holding force of the tension of the pressure on the sides of the hole.

 

Yep, skin rivets are flush with the surrounding skin, making for a very smooth finish. The countersinks aren't "dimpled" into the metal like in auto rivet work, they are cut into the metal to a depth that will have the rivet head flush with the skin when it is shot. Which if done correctly you'll never notice the rivets. However, if one were to go this route I'd also suggest using body panel adhesive to augment the rivets.

~M~

 

Just to make sure we're (me more than you probably) up to par.. this is what I'm talking about with screws (pic below). Grinding the heads flush (no digging into them) will still leave the screw with grip to the skin metal (even though screws would have to be ground slightly to provide a flush surface). What I was getting at and assumed (yea.. I know assuming is bad) was you were talking like a standard type rivet .

Regardless of the terminology & material used ( screw/plane rivet).. we''re both talking the relatively same thing correct ?

 

Realitivly the same thing, except that a monel steel rivet is 10X stronger than any screw and the heads on them are made expressly for tension loads (except for the smaller head nas1097 series) and if installed properly, will require no grinding for a flush fit.
The rivets will be a little harder to obtain, but I'm sure a little digging on the net will find a source.

~M~