, This is my good friends 91 Camaro RS. Has the SS hood, an LT1 with the LT4 package on it and some other goodies , a built 700r4, and 3.73's with an Auburn posi unit. Should be a good low 13's to high 12's in the 1/4 we hope. Just got done helping on the engine swap. That was fun.

 

Another...Sorry about the pic being crooked. I'm terrible with the scanner!

 

thats a beautiful car, and an LT1? :hail: :hail: :hail:

 

sharp looking ride!!

some days i wish i didn't purchase a 91 so i could feel all right buying that hood.....some days.

 

Tell us more!

How long did it take to do the swap?
What kind of crap did you have to fab up?
Was the wiring easy?
Did you have to change the engine mounts?

INFO!!

 

oh wow.. makes me want to buy a vert even more..

beautiful car!

 

NICE Ride!!!!

Is that a stock paint job?


Ken

 

very nice!! any engine pics?

 

Wow...that is really sharp@..what kind of exhaust is he running on it?

 

"Tell us more!

How long did it take to do the swap?

We started around Dec. 15 or so. Worked on it mostly mornings because we we using someones garage. Just finished last Sunday

What kind of crap did you have to fab up?

Ummm..alot, probably forget some stuff, but new raditior (reverse flow), move the motor mounts a bit, starter, fuse box, make a mount for the computer, reprogrammed the computer since VATs were an issue had to buypass that, new fuel system, A/C still not hooked up but needs to be installed and brakets made to wor

Was the wiring easy?

NO!! Although we tried to save some money since most was spent on unexpected parts, we used the LT1 wiring harness instead of the Painless wiring kit. Had to do ALOT of wire work and I DO NOT recommend using this if someone wants to go through this. Use the Painless kit.

Did you have to change the engine mounts?

Just had to move them. Seemed like a b$tch until we reached the wiring and wished everything was easy as that seemed. The hardest part of the swap was getting all the wiring done. I recommend the kit stongly.


"Is that a stock paint job?"
Ummm...about 1/4 of it is. Its been sideways before and my friend lost control and hit a guardrail so one side was repainted. It matches up perfectly and the fact that we are both detailers doesnt hurt either!!

 

He right now has a 3 inch exhaust with a Flowmaster, but we are looking for something a little more efficient with the engines power. It has a cam, head work, headers, no emmisions, and some other tweaks on it.

 

that exhaust with a good header is more than sufficient up to 350-400 range...above that you'll definately want to go 4".

 

So its drivable now? Badass! He's proabbly back at SIU by now though. Dude, you've dropped off the face of the earth lately where the hell you been? ( I guess this explains part of it dosen't it)

 

No money and no car make Mikey go crazy!!!! LOL

Just been working alot and going to school. I usually have THursdays and Fridays off though. I also want to blame it on the fact that its too cold to really do any of the things we like!

 

Hope you guys did some chassis/suspension mods to handle the kind of power an LT1 delivers but a stock RS would be seriously pressed to handle. I own a 91 vert and have been making various changes in these areas to accomodate the 350 TPI that will be dropped in this summer.

So far, I've done SFC's, struts/shocks, Eibachs prokit, and WS6 front/rear sway bars, steering brace, STB, plus poly-bushings at strategic locations. (I think she'll hold).

Has your friend done any more or any less to his ride for handling?

Also do you know if he did any braking mods to stop that beast? I can't afford a new Baer brake sys., so I'll just get some heavy durty pads/ shoes for the discs/ drums.

SOrry to ask you to answer all these q's on your friends behalf, but the info would really be appreciated!

 

So far its lowered 1 1/2 or 2 inches (I forget), the pics where taken before the lowering. Hotchkis lowering kit and wider tires. Other than that stock suspension so far. He plans on subframes and seeing if a strut tower brace will work. A roll bar will also be put on this summer. The car is being done paycheck to paycheck. I just keep telling him dont abuse it without subframes at least.

 

Let me say this: With a 305 and stock suspension (besides Prokit), I threw down the hammer off the line and it felt like my ***-end did not know which way to go. When my rear finally figured out that it needed to go "straight" to win, the race was already over.

Mind you I have a vert too. BUt mine is a Z28, which I think may be 1 step above the susp of an RS vert.

SFC's made a HUGE difference. Got mine from restoreclassics.com ($150 parts, $30 install).

Then I walked around salvage yards until I found a 36mm front and 24mm rear sway bar. INstalled those with a Global West steer brace.

TOTALLY different car. You point, it goes. Thats all I can say. No body twist or hesitance. All the energy lost in the chassis flex and roll goes straight back to the wheels.

Anyway....

 

We will have new pictures to post of the car and the engine bay next weekend. Also get to test her out too!! Will post details later.

 

I just got off the phone with my friend. He says he has adjustable shocks and stuts, lowered 1 1/2, underdrive pulleys, ported LT4 heads and intake, a TCI racing rebuild kit (700r4) and the engine was tested out and brought up to 7500 rpms and still was pulling without any trouble. The mechanic that was helping us says he expects 500 HP at the flywheel and says the car will go sideways into 4th gear! He is looking for a mid 80's gauge cluster for a Camaro so he can put aftermarket gauges in it. Email me if you have on laying around. Thanks

 

There should be a couple at Darst. There is also that Z28 down there that I was gonna yank the swaybars from. Well, won't be needing those.... but they'd probalby be nice on Travis's car! Hardtop and 'vert swaybars are the same right?

 

Nope: Z28 vert sway bars are 21mm rear and 32mm hollow front.


Not sure about RS verts (maybe 19 and 30)......

WS6 and Z28 coupe should be @ 36mm front hollow and 24mm rear.

 

Do they use the smaller ones so its less stress on the frame? I'd assume so, since a 3G converatble's frame isn't exactly rigid.