I have some pics of my car for you guys.
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Los Angeles, Ca.
Car: Base Firebird
Engine: TPI 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: D44
wow... beautiful. hey, i've got a couple of questions for ya.... is that muffler from a c4 corvette? do u only have that one on the left or do u have one on each side?do u have any more pics? also... about ur grille insert, did you make that from a z28 grille or did u custom fab it? i can see that u've got maybe a tranny cooler in there...
those are some neat little modifications... definitly unique.
those are some neat little modifications... definitly unique.
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 566
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From: New Britain, CT, U.S.A
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: 700-R4
Yup, I have the mufflers on both sides, and yes they are Borla C4 mufflers. The grill insert is custom made and skewed so it blows air directly on the tranny cooler.
Also I have maybe 10 more pics, yes, but since they're so large I figure I'd give the dial-up guys a break.
Also I have maybe 10 more pics, yes, but since they're so large I figure I'd give the dial-up guys a break.
Last edited by Markolc; Sep 8, 2003 at 04:30 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,259
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From: Los Angeles, Ca.
Car: Base Firebird
Engine: TPI 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: D44
ur exhaust set up looks sweet! like two of pairs of machine guns sticking out the back or something.. hah. did u have it custom fabricated?
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 8,030
Likes: 1
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
That looks awesome. When you say its detailed with Z5, do you mean all the steps through Z5 or just Z5?
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,992
Likes: 10
From: CT
Car: 1986 Camaro SC
Engine: 305 TPI Procharged D1SC
Transmission: Tremec TKO-600
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 Bolt 3.73 posi
wow, very nice, i bet that swap cost a pretty penny, i live in bristol by the way
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 566
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From: New Britain, CT, U.S.A
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: 700-R4
Originally posted by MetalliCamaroRS
That looks awesome. When you say its detailed with Z5, do you mean all the steps through Z5 or just Z5?
That looks awesome. When you say its detailed with Z5, do you mean all the steps through Z5 or just Z5?
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 803
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From: Los Angeles, CA/San Diego
Car: 1982 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: Stock carbed 305
Transmission: Stock 200C
What steps are you including with your Zaino application? Because I didn't take no where near 6 hours my first time of zaino. Now if you mean washing it with Dawn then claybaring, then washing off the claybar lube residue then applying the polish lock and finally the Zaino polish then I can see it lasting maybe 6 hours. I say with all of that, I only spent about 3-4 hours my first time, not including the wait time for the polish lock. Nevertheless I have only good things to say about Zaino.
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 566
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From: New Britain, CT, U.S.A
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: 700-R4
Yes, I mean the dawn wash and claybar, and 3 full coats of Z5, waiting about an hour between each coat so it fully dries.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 543
Likes: 2
From: So Cal
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R-4
Where can you get zaino? How much does it cost? What makes it so much better than ordinary polish/wax such as mother's? Can it be applied with an orbital buffer, or must there be special steps taken?
By the way, awesome looking car Mark! Thanks guys.
By the way, awesome looking car Mark! Thanks guys.
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 566
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From: New Britain, CT, U.S.A
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: 700-R4
What makes it so special is that it lasts 6-9 months in any weather. Also it layers with every coat, the more coats you put on, the better it looks. Zaino store. You really don't wanna apply zaino with a buffer, as you'll waste too much polish. One ounce of zaino does 3.5 coats including the wheels for my IROC. That's spreading it thin, and thin is where it's at for zaino!
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 543
Likes: 2
From: So Cal
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R-4
So is this stuff just a polish? I thought it was very important to also wax your car, to protect it from UV rays, water deposits, bird ****, and acid rain?
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 566
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From: New Britain, CT, U.S.A
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: 700-R4
This polish replaces wax, it offers 6-9 months of protection against UV rays, contaminents, wter spots, acid rain, and everything else wax protects against. Go to the website and read more! Or better yet, go to the show and shine forum on camaroz28.com and read al the testimony about it!
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,096
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From: Lima, OH
Car: '89 Formula 350 & '86 Z28
Engine: L98 & 355ci
Transmission: 700r4 in both
My Zaino kit arrives tommorow, Ive been tracking it on ups.com for 3 days! My car was painted 2-3 weeks ago and has NOTHING on it, I cant stand driving with nothing protecting it! I have tommorow off work so this is my day:
1: Get up
2: Check the boards
3: Wash car with Dawn
4. Wait for UPS man
5. wash with Dawn again
6. 1st coat of Z5,Zaino said claybar isnt needed since paint is new
7. Z-6
8. Z-2
9. Z-6
10. Z-2
I have also been using microfiber towels to dust the car, wash the car and chamois the car. Those things are useful! I have 3 of em and love em!
1: Get up
2: Check the boards
3: Wash car with Dawn
4. Wait for UPS man
5. wash with Dawn again
6. 1st coat of Z5,Zaino said claybar isnt needed since paint is new
7. Z-6
8. Z-2
9. Z-6
10. Z-2
I have also been using microfiber towels to dust the car, wash the car and chamois the car. Those things are useful! I have 3 of em and love em!
Last edited by SweetS10v8; Sep 9, 2003 at 10:06 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 0
From: Lima, OH
Car: '89 Formula 350 & '86 Z28
Engine: L98 & 355ci
Transmission: 700r4 in both
Yeah, Im using ZFX 
the corvette exhaust had to cost you a pretty penny! very original!

Originally posted by Markolc
Don;t forget to add ZFX to that Z2! lol. You'll be amazed at how this stuff makes water bead off!
Don;t forget to add ZFX to that Z2! lol. You'll be amazed at how this stuff makes water bead off!
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 446
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, MO
Car: 89 Firebird Formula(Totalled), 91 C
Engine: Mild 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 :-(
Car looks awesome man! :rockon: Love the Vette motor in there, is it a aluminum headed L98? Exhaust even looks like it came from a vette
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
From: New Britain, CT, U.S.A
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: 700-R4
I like the stock appearance of the car actually. And that's a '95 Vette LT1 with 4th gen accessories in there. Surely not an L98.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,075
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From: Oregon
Car: GM & Jaguar
Engine: Various
Transmission: Various
Axle/Gears: Various
Markolc, aside from a breath taking finish on the paint, that engine looks SO DAMN AWESOME, and runs like a 'MO to boot I'm sure!!! But what's up with the front grille? It looks a little haggard...
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 566
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From: New Britain, CT, U.S.A
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: 700-R4
The open grill is made of tin. If was heated, flexed, and strategically pinned together to blow air directly onto the tranny cooler and radiator. This eliminates my need for an air dam, which saves me from CONSTANT scraping on my driveway. Now I have not problems. Also the tranny temps have never been cooler. It looks a lil ragged cuz the paint is now about 9 years old on it, and the edges aren't painted, it was cut after pianting for better fitment. The grill also has provisions to direct some air through a swiss cheezed stock air box, effectively giving me CAI, and a very classic stock looking air intake setup.
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 566
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From: New Britain, CT, U.S.A
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: 700-R4
Originally posted by tpiroc
Markolc, aside from a breath taking finish on the paint, that engine looks SO DAMN AWESOME, and runs like a 'MO to boot I'm sure!!!
Markolc, aside from a breath taking finish on the paint, that engine looks SO DAMN AWESOME, and runs like a 'MO to boot I'm sure!!!
Also I'd like to point out that that is factory original paint, un doctored un touched-up. The only mod I have done to the car is tear off the moldings on the car to give the doors a much smoother look. The car has only 11,445 miles on the odometer, and it's not lying. The interior is mint perfect condition, ony mods are the hurst shifter, and the roll cage. The owner before me drag raced the car since new, so that's why it has low miles, and flawless paint. The car's subframes were reinforced within the first few months of new purchase of the car, and the cage was added shortly after that as the previous owner was getting the car to go faster. Ultimately the car topped at 9.44 quarter times pullin 1.32 60' times. the race weight was at 2950 with driver. But since I took ownership, I brought it back to street status with a stout LT1 motor, built 700-r4, full interior, stock front suspension minus sways bars. The rear suspension is ladder bar, Moser 9" axle, 3.90 gears, and stock 4 wheel disc brakes all around. There really are too many mods to list. The car weighs in about 3250 with driver with full interior installed and essentials put back into the engine bay.
Last edited by Markolc; Sep 11, 2003 at 03:36 PM.
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Posts: 1,075
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From: Oregon
Car: GM & Jaguar
Engine: Various
Transmission: Various
Axle/Gears: Various
Well hot diggity; that car has got a unique history, and so clean it's unreal. A standing O for such an outstanding ride... I love it.
Originally posted by Markolc
Thanks, the motor runs great. It put down 362 RWHP with the torque converter unlocked, conservative timing, and a lil lean on the top end. I burnt a spark plug wire on the dyno so I could not finish fine tuning and adjustement, but I fully expect 375-380 RWHP with the torque convertor locked and some play with the DFI. So far, Gtech times are reporting a 12.3, and that's shifting at 5500 (peak power is at 6500) and going from a rolling start cuz the nittos can't grab for the life of them on my streets.
Thanks, the motor runs great. It put down 362 RWHP with the torque converter unlocked, conservative timing, and a lil lean on the top end. I burnt a spark plug wire on the dyno so I could not finish fine tuning and adjustement, but I fully expect 375-380 RWHP with the torque convertor locked and some play with the DFI. So far, Gtech times are reporting a 12.3, and that's shifting at 5500 (peak power is at 6500) and going from a rolling start cuz the nittos can't grab for the life of them on my streets.
What engine mods do you have? I see LT4 valve covers, did you do LT4 conversion? Also so the billet throttle body, and with those numbers to the wheels its got some good mods on it. Just curious, I've got basically a full Hotcam LT4 conversion but never have had a chance to get it dyno'd. I'm running the 1/4 at 109 but traction problems keep me from breaking out of the 13's.
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 566
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From: New Britain, CT, U.S.A
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: 700-R4
The covers are all for dress up. I run a CCXE 230/236 cam, 1.6 rrs, mildly ported LT1 heads, long tube headers, free flowing exhaust, 58mm TB. DFI engine management. Basically every bolt on except a 160 T-stat.
Originally posted by Markolc
The covers are all for dress up. I run a CCXE 230/236 cam, 1.6 rrs, mildly ported LT1 heads, long tube headers, free flowing exhaust, 58mm TB. DFI engine management. Basically every bolt on except a 160 T-stat.
The covers are all for dress up. I run a CCXE 230/236 cam, 1.6 rrs, mildly ported LT1 heads, long tube headers, free flowing exhaust, 58mm TB. DFI engine management. Basically every bolt on except a 160 T-stat.
any chance your gunna be at the pike tomorrow night? Im up at school, and wana go to the pike friday night.... wana meet me there? PM me. I would love to see that bad boy in person!
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 566
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From: New Britain, CT, U.S.A
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: 700-R4
TexasLt1 - My cam is a lil bit smaller than the CC306, but I like it cuz it produces much more torque under the curve, and peaks HP at a lil less than the CC306. The CC306 is a HP monster, but not much low-end. The CCXE230/236 offers a lil bit more compromise, and I really like it, great street manners!
400RWHP is a tough one to reach on an automatic tranny, however if you have the T56, it's not very hard with the cam I use and a GOOD set of ported heads. I've seen 410+ RWHP with this cam.
BTW, I truly believe a bigger TB will help you a bit if you have a very free flowing exhaust, and also very good street and WOT programming. My friends LT1 has a 48mm TB and just mail order tuning, but basically the same engine mods, and the street manners are completely different. His motor also doesn't rev as lightning quick as mine does. Mine takes like a second to go from idle to 6500 RPM on a quick rev, while my friends takes like 1.5-2 seconds. The throttle response just isn't there. I run a Speed density setup and he runs a MAF if it means anything.
Anyways, about the TB, I do believe it will give you a few top end HP. You just have to learn how to give it a lil less gas off the line, cuz you do get more air into the motor (not so much difference with a 52mm TB though).
400RWHP is a tough one to reach on an automatic tranny, however if you have the T56, it's not very hard with the cam I use and a GOOD set of ported heads. I've seen 410+ RWHP with this cam.
BTW, I truly believe a bigger TB will help you a bit if you have a very free flowing exhaust, and also very good street and WOT programming. My friends LT1 has a 48mm TB and just mail order tuning, but basically the same engine mods, and the street manners are completely different. His motor also doesn't rev as lightning quick as mine does. Mine takes like a second to go from idle to 6500 RPM on a quick rev, while my friends takes like 1.5-2 seconds. The throttle response just isn't there. I run a Speed density setup and he runs a MAF if it means anything.
Anyways, about the TB, I do believe it will give you a few top end HP. You just have to learn how to give it a lil less gas off the line, cuz you do get more air into the motor (not so much difference with a 52mm TB though).
The main problem I have right now is that I'm still using the T-5, and its on its way out again. So hopefully sometime soon I'm going to do the G-Force upgrade and make it rock solid, I don't think a stock T-5 can take much more abuse than what I give it, and especially with more power.
What is your HP peak at and how much torque did your combo produce? I'm also considering get my stock LT1 heads ported really good instead of doing a cam swap, I haven't decided yet. But I will definitely get a larger TB and try and do something with the exhaust. I also think getting it dyno tuned will get me a little more too, I've never been real happy with the program (mail order) that I've got right now, I think it runs way too rich and probably has pretty conservative timing. Only time will tell I guess.
Thanks for the great reply, its definitely got me thinking now.
What is your HP peak at and how much torque did your combo produce? I'm also considering get my stock LT1 heads ported really good instead of doing a cam swap, I haven't decided yet. But I will definitely get a larger TB and try and do something with the exhaust. I also think getting it dyno tuned will get me a little more too, I've never been real happy with the program (mail order) that I've got right now, I think it runs way too rich and probably has pretty conservative timing. Only time will tell I guess.
Thanks for the great reply, its definitely got me thinking now.
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 566
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From: New Britain, CT, U.S.A
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: 700-R4
I'd DEFINATELY do a good port job on the heads vs a cam swap. The stock heads only flow so well, and a bigger than stock cam starts to show it's bottleneck.
My HP peaks at exactly 6400 RPM, and my RWTQ was about 340 or so at around 4000 RPM ( I can't find the sheet to tell you exactly).
For you , I would worry about spending cash on the heads rather than a TB. A TB only produces marginal gains, however good ported heads unleashes a huge potential of HP. Or spend your money on heads AND a cam swap at the same time, something that will compliment the heads. One thing I will tell you, is learn exactly which cam you want to run, and have your heads ported towards the cams strenghts. If you need help on selection, I'm sure you'll find loads of help on cz28.com. There are a few head porters that port heads specifically to the CCXE series cams.
My HP peaks at exactly 6400 RPM, and my RWTQ was about 340 or so at around 4000 RPM ( I can't find the sheet to tell you exactly).
For you , I would worry about spending cash on the heads rather than a TB. A TB only produces marginal gains, however good ported heads unleashes a huge potential of HP. Or spend your money on heads AND a cam swap at the same time, something that will compliment the heads. One thing I will tell you, is learn exactly which cam you want to run, and have your heads ported towards the cams strenghts. If you need help on selection, I'm sure you'll find loads of help on cz28.com. There are a few head porters that port heads specifically to the CCXE series cams.
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