Ok so I was talking with my father in law and yes I just got a new paint job but I am disappointed with it. After 3 weeks it is already starting to chip off on the drivers side door and told the chump I refuse to pay him (after already giving him 1/3 of the $$$ for the job). He is from across the border so im not gonna sweat being reprimended. He did a crappy job anyways. Any hoo, back to my question. Me and my father in law are gonna go set up a tent over in his driveway and anchor that bad boy down because he also wants to paint his 64 1/2 mustang. We'd use his garage but his wife is a *****.

Now what were wondering is can the EPA do anything to us for painting outdoors? We will keep the tent ventilated.

Now the other question is can we use laquer? Enamel paint flat out sucks, can laquer based paint be purchased legally for automobiles? If not, hell we'll go across the border and go buy some.

Can anyone give some tips on painting with laquer as im sure its quite different than enamel? Also, how much paint thinner does one use per quart or any other form of measurement for the paint? We got already got the gun and air compressor. Thanks.

 

why use crappy products? that has given you crappy results. go with the newer base clear urathane products. epa is no issue as long as you keep your stuff clean and not dump paint on the ground. if you can buy it in a paint supply shop you can use it.

seriously do the base clear with like omni, ppg. or dupont or house of kolor paint good price good product, get good stuff and you will have a better paint job forget the one step products.

 

Actually, the enamel was used on my car. Hell I just like how when you wax Laquer, that shine just comes right back. Any suggestions on mixing the paint? I may go enamel on mine because I believe laquer takes forever to dry out. But my father in law would like to use it on his mustang.

 

Here's how it breaks down. Lacquer is garbage!!!! Highly refined dirt!!!

Enamel; a half a step above lacquer...
Use quality products, You get what you pay for!!! You're already squawkin' about what a shi**y job was done before...Did he use lacquer??? Are you happy??
You know yourself first hand and mentioned it in your last post,If you use a quality product you won't "lose the shine"!!!!
Lacquer NEVER CURES!!!
It is a thermoplastic product, Meaning it will re-flow with heat and or solvent.
Spend the extra$$$, You'll be glad you did.
BTW, make sure you get all that old garbage off the car!!!

 

He used enamel actually and laquer was suggested by my father in law because his brothers bronco is georgous and when he buffs it, damn the laquer just shines so well, its like it was just painted.

I repeat for anyone replying:

THE CAR WAS PAINTED WITH ENAMEL AND THE JOB SUCKED. IT WAS NOT LAQUER NOW HUSH UP ABOUT ME KNOWING BETTER OR READ THE DAMN THREAD AGAIN!

Any hoo. What do you consider high quality paint? Once again, I ask what is the rule of thumb in mixing the paint?

 

Been reading up on a do it yourself paint job and im curious on wet sanding.

Now say I was doing 3 coats base 5 coats clear.

Is this the method to do it to achieve maximum results???

1st coat base goes on...allow to cure

Wet sand up to 2k grit

2nd coat base....allow to cure

wet sand up to 2k grit

3rd coat base....allow to cure

wet sand up to 2-3k

1st coat clear....allow to cure

wet sand the **** out of it up to 3k

continue this up to coat 5 of clear.

Or is it like this:

1st coat base...cure
2nd coat base...cure
3rd coat base....cure

wet sand

1-5 coat clear....cure

wet sand.
?

Dumb question I know, but hell, i'll ask

 

Jeff said it...urethane.
don't you want that look year round without having to buff it every 6 months? Use urethane.
Your next post is a little overkill...
When you are talking about coats, I assume you mean stages. every coat of base leads to coverage and that's what you're looking for. Each "coat" does not constitute a paint job, you may not have it covered... no reason to wet sand.
While you CAN do all those steps...after coverage...it isn't necessary. You're probably asking for more trouble with dirt and junk in your paint with all those steps.
Five coats of clear IS a bit much without wet sanding in between.
Two coats...wetsand with 1200 then 2 more coats wetsand and wheel.
Today's products are very user-friendly, and you can produce a practically show finish with minimal work.
(Sorry Jeff I didn't really mean minimal!!!)

 

Sounds good, were gonna get started this weekend, we have a door weere going to paint to test out our skills before we start on my car or his mustang. Do they make a Kandy black?

 

There are multiple things you can do with black... not sure what you mean by "kandy black" There's a thread on pearl black in the paint and body forum...
The method I outlined above will make you wet yourself.
Make sure you spend mucho time on your prep work...especially with black, the body and prep are 98 percent of the job.
Use a quality 2k product all the way through... don't get cheap on the primer and sealer.
Research Jeff's thread "Project Resurection" You'll get a ton of great info.

 

Pearl is something im not a big fan of. I love that translucent look that kandy gives off and would make the black really kick some ***.

 

That's because of the underlying metallic or pearl in the groundcoat...
If you want that ultra rich deep black do what I said...You'll be golden!!

 

Im thinking of just taking your advice and just going flat out jet black and putting some kandy red heritage stripes.

 

I have to repaint my '91 Z after winter.

You said something about getting a rich deep black ?

how exacly ? using mettal flakes?

 

Any suggestions on painting heritage stripes? Only part I see being difficult is the front where it curves =/.

 

check your drying time on the paints but its usually

1st coat base wait 5min
2nd coat base wait 5 min
3rd coat base wait 5 min

if you are fully coverd and have even coverage go to clear

1st coat clear wait 10 min
2nd coat clear wait 10 min
3rd coat clear wait till dry at least 24 hrs

then u should be good to wetsande with 1500 then 2000 and buff

 

for what you asking for thiere is only one choice....urathane.. get a good mask of fresh air machine to protect your lungs and have fun painting it it really is not that hard if you read every thing take kevins advice he does know how to get it done he was a huge help in my project.

base clear is the one you want i would burry some peral ghost heratige stripes that would look incredable.....

base clear you can fix your mistakes with ease you can;t do that with enamel or laquer one step paints if it runs your screwed if it oragen peals your stuck with i and if you fish eye it is back to square one. with base clear if you mess up during the base let it dry sand the spot add more base no biggy. if you run the clear add more and razor it off then sand and buff no biggie.

it does take alot of labor to get it right you could scrimp and maybe still get a *** finish the stuff is that easy.

since you have paint that is chiping you will have to strip that junk off before you paint the base clear or else you will have more shiping problem.

prep is 100% of the job painting is easy.
\
primre block wet sand ect.

base coats let cure accoriding to spec sheet of paint.

2 - 3 coats of clear wet sand 1000 -1500
and then two more flo coats of clear and enjoy.

jeff

ps final pics of my project will be up end of the week now that my rims have shipped to me.