I took pics of the installation of my new cables but there are a bunch of pics. where can I post all of the pics and the instructions without the 3 pics. restrain.
they are the ones that you cut to make them fit.
these are them:

 

put them on a cardomain site. Then when you go to your car domain page, right click on the picture you want, select properties, then copy the web address for it. When you come back to post, just click IMG in the reply and paste the images address.

 

Yea thats the thing, I dont have a car domain.

 

just sign up for one, they are free.

 

that or host them on imageshack.us...free and quicker than cardomain..

 

If the pictures have technical merit, like a tutorial, then feel free to post them. The 3 pic rule was put in place to put an end to the "here are 25 different angles of my new rims" posts. So as long as its teaching people and not a bunch of shots of what the wires look like, then go ahead

 

Ok, I will post them up tomorrow since Ive left work allready.

 

1. tool (this tool came with the wires, is use to separate the outside ruber from the inside wire. youll see what I mean on the pics. later on.)
2. shrinking plastic (heat them up with a lighter & they shrink)
3. plastic boot
4. metal that goes inside the plastic boot
5. heat shields (thise goes over the wire & protects it form the heat of the headers. this spesific ones can widstand up to 1,200 F. & I got them from Summit #TAY2560)
6. greace (comes with the wires)
7. wire

 

8. gloves (my fingers started hurting after a while so I recomend them)
9. clamp tool (I got this one at Pep boys, is for an 8MM wire but they worked for my 10MM ones)
10. lighter (any lighter or hair drier will work)
11. knife
12. pen (need one to mark the spot were to cut the wire)
13. scissors (this were my wifes kitchen scissors. shhhh!)

 

Ok, here we start:

First take one wire out (the instructions say to start with the longest one & work your way donw & to only do one at a time, so that you dont mix them).
Now install one of the new wires on the plug & run the cable all the way to the distributor.

 

When you are shure of the lenght & path of the wire, make a mark on the wire to know where is soposed to end.

 

Remove the wire to work on it. Look for the mark & cut about an inch after it. (youll see why later)

 

Now cut around the center wire with the knife, at the spot where you first marked the wire. (make shure not to cut the center metal wire)

 

Now you have about an inch of the cable sticking out.

 

Now stick the metal tool (#1). Between the black ruber & the white plastic. About an inch down.

 

This is how it should be looking by now.

 

Take the metal tool out and bring the black ruber material down so that the white part is exposed.

 

Pull the center wire back & put the metal pice (#4) on top of it so that it lands on the white part of the cable.

 

Now clamp it down. (since the clamping tool I found was meant for an 8MM wire & my wires were 10MM I had to play with it a bit. Notice the 3 pics. Im posting)

 

clamp

 

& camp

 

Pull the black ruber back up on top of the clamp you just made & this is what it should look like:

 

Put the heat shrinking plastics(#2) on top of where the cable ends and the metal comes out & apply some heat. (watch it shrink & be carefull not to damage the wire with the fire.)

 

this is a good writeup and should be made an article , but this looks like work id rather just pay the extra money for ones that are allready cut and done.

 

Slide the heat shield now before the rubber boot goes in.

 

Now this is when the greace comes handy. Lube the metal part and the hole of the ruber boot and press hard as hell.

 

plug the wire back in to the sparkplugs & lower the heatshield so that it protects the cable from the headers.

 

Plug the other end to the distributor and your done.

 

I still dont have a picture of the finished product because the custom separators I orderd were backorder, but as soon as I get them I will post a picture so you guys can see the benefit of doing it like this. The easy way is to buy them precut but they dont fit or look like this will when everythng is done.

 

no offense but i think this is one of the most pointless things ive ever seen. Putting together spark plug wires is not rocket science, thats why they come with a little instruction manual. If you cant figure out how to do this you prolly shouldnt be working on your car.

you should also mention that its a much better idea to use a heat gun then fire to do the heat shrink. But if you cant use heat shrink then you need to not be driving a car let alone working on one.

lol each one of these paragraphs is an edit. This definitly does not warrant this amount of bandwidth for all those photos. Go put them on car domain ya lazy sod.

 

Ive got a link for you : http://www.google.com/search?q=bitch+whine+moan

Alex thanks for prividing a reall hands on how to, others may find it usefull. (I just buy the premade ones )

 

Wow, that was productive and insightful.

Some folks are new to cars and could use the tips, let alone a picture tells 1000 words.

If you are truly concered about bandwidth (and not just trying to use a new word you just learned), how about deleting your useless post?

 

dispite what some people think i thought it was helpful info.. i have never cut my own wires.. i always bought precut sets..

 

Cut to fit wires look 100 times better than precut wires could ever hope to. With cut to fit wires you do not have the goobs of extra wire looping around.

After buying a cut to fit set, I would never buy a premade set again for a SBC. LT1/LS1/ford 4.6L is a different story though.