........I've done a search but there seems to be a lot of mixed opinions on what to do. What product should I use to buff out minor scratches and imperfections in the paint? My car was painted about 6 yrs ago. It's black by the way. The paint is still good with a high sheen but it has a lot of scratches from washing. I don't really think I need a compound but what will remove these damn scratches? Thanks.......Zapr.

 

This is the best advice I can give w/o seeing the car is that hand polishes are not going to 'cut' it. A high speed buffer is best way to deal with those pesky scratches, esp on a black car.

 

Have someone that has some experience dealign with this look at your car and give you some advice.

there are a bunch of products, and a bunch of processes you can use.

Most will require either a high speed dual action, or a high speed orbital, and those are not for faint of heart or rookies. you can get the handle of a DA pretty quickly, with the right help, but I would not recommend starting on a car with issues.

If I was working on it, assuming that we are talking about normal belmishes from washing, drying off, etc, I would use the following process.

1. wash
2. clay
3. wash
4. # 83 with a cutting pad
5. # 9 with a polishing pad
6. # 7 with a finishing pad
7. NXT with a finishing pad
8. NXT with a finishing pad


if you are a Zaino guy (or any other product), then start at step 6 with the equivilant products of your choice.


if the # 83 doesn't cut the swirls/scratches, then you will have to step up to heavier cutting products, which require even more experience, and the correct tools.

 

There are a lot of different products you can use. You would need either an orbital buffer (like the Porter Cable 7424/7336) or a rotary buffer to get the most out of them though. Here are some you might consider trying:

Poorboys SSR2.5 and SSR1
Sonus SFX 1, 2, and 3
Menzerna IP and FP
Or the Meguiars products listed above.

 

......I have a 10 inch orbital buffer and I was using meguiars crystal step 1 paint cleaner scratch/swirl remover. The buffer didn't seem to remove the product after it dried to a haze, it left a thin film so I finished buffing by hand. The scratches are not as noticeable, the product seemed to hide them, but the scratches are still there. Question, does the product work to remove scratches as it is being applied, or as it is being removed after it dries or do I need a stronger product? Thanks.......Zapr.

 

Try putting another coat on.

 

if you are talking about one of those waxmaster/wal mart/target type orbitals, they won't cut the mustard. you need a high speed DA orbital, like the Porter Cable DJCobol mentioned, or a high speed rotary.


what kind of pad are you using with the orbital you have?

where are you located ?

 

........I was using a terry pad. Not really sure which pad is best. I bought a package with an assortment of bonnets, vinyl wax applicater, terry, and a foam one. My buffer is a Wen orbital [ 3000 orbits per min.] and I agree it's not sufficiant to remove scratches. Some of the more noticable scratches are gone or hidden. Maybe another coat or is there a better product? I live near Kitchener Ont. Ca. I would really like to do this myself. Thanks for any feedback........Zapr.

 

I am a professional detailer and what I am not seeing in any of these posts is that you need to get the paint hot when you are buffing. You need to be careful though, not to "burn" the paint. saw that someone recommended a clay bar, works good, but I would not recommend that on a black car, you will end up scratching it a lot worse. I've used alot of compounds and what I've found to work best is the 3M detail line. They have a heavy cut and light cut, use them in that order. Then follow up with a finish glaze by hand. I usually use Meguirs for this. I'm not familiar with Wen buffers, but it sounds like it should get the job done. I prefer a Makita, but they are about $250.

 

a Wen will have a hard time building enough speed to get the job done, but it might work with multiple coats.

Use a wool bonnet with the compound, and give it a light misting with a spray bottle of water, to help keep you from burning the paint.


as for the clay bar damaging black paint .. I have never seen a clay bar scratch anything, when used correctly. (as long as you are not using a claymagic clay bar, that is)

 

.......I have a mothers clay bar but I've never used it. How will it help to remove scratches? So a wool bonnet is recommended. Is that used to apply or remove the product and is it more important to work the product as you're appling it or removing it after it dries? Also where can I get 3M products in Cananda? Sorry for all the questions......Zapr.

 

the Clay bar is for removing imperfections on the paint.. overspray, bugs, tar, tree sap, things like that .. won't do anything for scratches.

the more coarse the pad, or bonnet, the heavier cutting it will do (and the more damage it can do). Wool is a heavier bonnet than terry or foam, so it will do a better job of cutting, especially using the orbital waxer. the Wool bonnet is used to apply the product, not remove it. Your best bet for removing the excess is a nice, clean microfiber towel.

I would be really hesitant to use a heavy cutting compound with that Wen. it is not strong enough to maintain its speed to ensure even cutting. also .. make sure you keep the pad flat on the surface, don't use just one edge. Most cutting compounds are designed to be used with either a high speed Dual Action Orbital, like the Porter Cable, or a high speed Rotary like a Makita or Dewalt, or something like that (looks like an angle grinder). the Wen 10" is rated @ 2900 rpm or so unloaded. once you put a load on it, they slow down considerably, which does not deliver the desired results with those compounds.

a couple of applications of a lighter compound may produce better results than a heavier compound with the tools you currently have.

Can't help you on locating the products in CA .. I would assume that Canadian Tire would carry some of it (Meguiars), but your best bet might be a professional auto paint supply shop for the 3M stuff.

If you want/need to get into more detail about any of this .. feel free to PM me.

 

Professional detailer huh? Then why did you give bad advice on every single topic you touched on. Lets go over them in order:
Not true. It depends on the product you are using, and what temperature it breaks down at. On my black car, using a PC7336 with the Excel orange cutting pad and PB SSR2.5, my paint never really gets "hot". Warm, sure, but not hot.
Again, not true. Unless you suck at reading directions. Knead the clay constantly and you wont ever have a problem. Not that clay will do anything for scratch removal anyways.
Strike 3. Always, always start with the least abrasive product and step your way up if you dont get the results you want.

 

I guess if I will not give my professional adivice to anyone anymore. Since it is all wrong anyway. I guess the detail shop that I manage must completely suck then. Not only do I detail for a living, but I own two black vehicles. I would not steer anyone in the wrong direction. I put in my advice from my own experience, and all I recieve is criticism. I did not know that is what these forums were about, hmm.....guess I was wrong.

 

I would use a high speed buffer with "Perfect It III" (wool pad) then run over it with a foam pad with foam pad polish. That's what I use at the shop and it works great.

 

.......Well my questions have been answered. I have a much better understanding of the whole process. I worked on it a little tonight and the Wen just doesn't cut it. After a while it heats up and slows considerable and is difficult to control. No damage though. I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Thanks again......Zapr.

 

www.autosupermart.com

have a whole line of the 3M products.

 

what's so special about black paint from other colors that a clay bar would scratch it? nothing. I just used a clay bar on my '97 Formula and turned out great IMO.