My car looks like new in the sun, but if it is in the garage and the light is hitting the finish indirectly I see tiny surface sratches. They are nothing you can feel or even see unless the light hits it just right.

I am told it is just normal wear and tear from washing and waxing through the years. A guy I know owns a detail shop and suggests removing the wax, a low speed polish with a foam pad, then a hand glaze and hand wax. I have never had a car done with a buffer, Could it do more harm than good? Also I want to try to retain the factory orange peel look (I know you think I am crazy) will buffing remove this?

I had tried a number of glazes, waxes by hand. My father-in-law thinks I have too much wax on the finsh and the scratches I see may be in the wax?? Has anyone ever heard of such a thing.

The car is a low use car and is garaged all the time.

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Patrick Malinowski
1991 Z28 Convertible
25K original miles.
1998 Honda Accord Daily driver (hey it has got a 200 hp V-6 and is better in the snow)
2000 Impala (wife's)

 

Well, if done by the wrong person, a buffer can to more harm than good. They can burn right through the paint.
Yes, if done by the right person, it may remove the scrathes.
If a strong rubbing compound is used it may remove the factory orange peel, however this is unlikely. Usually orange peel is removed by color sanding.
My advice, ask people, whose cars' finish you really like, which professional detailer they have used with excellent results OR simply how they got their finish to look so good and use their method.

 

I really like the buffer, It is a great way to get the little nics and imperfections out. I would go ahead and do it, it is hard to do any harm if you know what your doing.

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91 Camaro RS

Red V8 coupe, Ground effects, Alum. Rims, Boss Deck, Jensen 600 amp, Two Rockford Fosgate 12 inch subs, Tinted windows, White face gauges, Hurst shift **** with nitos button (just waiting for the nitros now...), GTO headlight covers. Planned mods: Edelbrock Sidnature series air cleaner, stingray hood, Hooker super comp headers, 3 inch cat back system, 75-175 shot of Nitros,

Engine in the making: 350 mouse, vortec pocket ported 170 cc heads, Edelbrock performer RPM intake, Holley 750-cfm double pumper carb. Crane power max H-272 cams, 1.5 aluminum roller rocker.

 

I buff my car all the time. Of course I have 6 coats of Metal flake Black with Clear coat and it has been wet sanded. My car shines likenew all the time. You can get the same result but if you have your original factory paint I suggest rubbing compound to remove the wax and all grime, dirt, etc. After that put your wax on with the buffer and remove it with the buffer. Go slow and do not do this in the sunlight. You probably have wax build up and the compound will remove that and the wax will restore the finish. One question tho, are you using non cotton towels to wash your car? Only use a chamios or soft cotton towels on your finish. Anything else can put those same tiny scratches on your car.



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86 Camaro Black SS Coupe, T Tops, Flowmaster, Custom Paint, Dunlop Road Kings S/R tires, Wheel Country Directional Chrome Wheels,new charcoal & gray interior including seats and door panels, new carpet and headliner, complete front end suspension rebuild, new Valve seals, and more mods to come
http://www.angelfire.com/sports/niterider/86camaro.html
Morgan_Andre@hotmail.com

 

The 3 or 4 final steps in a pro finish would be:

Color Sanding - To remove orange peel and dust nibs.

Compound - Wool Pad @ 3000 RPM - To remove scratches and heavier imperfections.

Machine Glaze - Foam Pad @ 1800 RPM - To remove minor scratches and swirl marks.

You could just do the machine glaze step and you will have your orange peel still in tact.

Your scratches are caused by everyday dirt and dust abrasion and using the wrong cloths to polish. I would use a soft flannel to take wax off and a 3M detail cloth for final polish. This link will explain some of the supplies.

http://www.gmtips.com/3rd-degree/

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