Here is my 86 sc. This was my first time doing any sort of sheetmetal work and I am very happy with the results. It was also the first time I had to paint anything as well. It turned out really well until I had to touch up the upper lefthand corner of the firewall and got a run in the paint. Overall, I am very happy. Just need to finish with the subframe and then I can starting putting it all together.

 

nice work, im looking forward to doin my car once i dig it out of the snow lol.

 

I'm impressed. A few questions for you..
Is that satin/matte black?
What did you paint with? compressor, airless? hvlp gun? what type of paint? did you apply clear? I'm asking because I need to paint too.

looking GREAT btw

 

It is matte black farm implement paint made by Majik. I found it at the local farm yard and it is some tough stuff is you use the hardener with it. I used my Harbor Freight 43430 HVLP gun at 40 psi. There is not clear on it. It is very dusty as I was cleaning the garage before I took the pics.

Some parts weren't painted, rather powder coated using Harbor Freight's matte black powder (motor mounts, strut mounts, k-member brackets). It matches with the paint really well.

 

hello heres my 91 camaro i have a few years on this bodywork stuff half shaved i guess everything is painted my car is half black half red sorry i was checking my water on the radiator cap was missing on the pick kinda funny

 

I want that.

 

Dose anyone know where I can buy this radiator cover? Is this a custom job? It looks sexy!!! I really want... Dose anyone else have this??





Who's car is this (it's on thirdgen)? Where did he get that cover???

 

its custom color match to the color of the car/engine bay

 

I feel like a dumass

 

how do you even get the pins out of that cover without breaking it

 

they sell special pliers to remove clips they work on the clips for the interior to they go for around 4 to 5 bucks

 

Beauty thread! Definetly something I'll be doing in the future! Subscribed.

 

Did anyone shave the factory bulkhead off the firewall? Asking because I'm using a EZ 18 circuit body harness. Thinking I may drill my own hole in the firewall under the steering (or nearby).

Pix anyone??

 

Woe!!! Think this is what I'm looking for... Where are your wires???

 

Yes.

 

If you shave the bulkhead you may as well run the wiring inside the fender to completely hide it the way the factory did on the passenger side. Thats what I'm doing with mine now.

 

ill be doin the same with my car im drilling a hole just inside of the firewall in the trans tunnel for the engine wiring and the headlight wiring im goin to run down the pass side inside the fender to keep engine bay clean of wiring.

 

Like others, I had to get a new battery tray.
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i to am planning on fixing my battery tray because it has anti freeze on it and its starting to corrode and rust. is that from hawks? does it have to be welded? or just placed on top? after pics of it would be great.

 

The old tray will have to be cut out and the new welded in. Not a hard thing to do (I already have the fenders n everything out). I will post pics when I am done. I searched the Pick-N-Pull for a decenet tray but they where all no diff then the one I had now.

I found a guy on ebay that has them (5 left, or if he is out I'm sure he can get more). He has the left and right batt tray for $30usd.

camarohawk (TURNS OUT THIS IS HAWKS)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/82-92...Q5fAccessories

 

I cant wait till Im able to start working on my car. Need money.

 

Since Im pulling my motor Im going to shave my compartment. Just curious, where are the washer overflow, and wiper fluid? Did you just yank out the wiper fluid all together? That is super clean..

 

they are behind the nose ans coolant overflow is next to the battery. they used 4th gen tanks

 

The LS2 camaro has some beautiful work done to but but, the lack of a blower box or, anything, on the passenger side firewall makes the engine bay seem horribly out of balance and was all I noticed first over the craftsmanship (or the cruise control mount bump still being on the drivers side wheel well).

 

the giant hole on the passenger side where the harness comes through could have been covered as well, but overall a clean car

 

On the orange LS,

Shock hardware was painted over...They are adjustable for a reason I thought. I guess If you were planning on never replacing anything its not an issue but once the bolts are cracked loose it could chip the surrounding paint. Just an observation, I would be nervous about that.

A/C / blower box delete I thought was a common sought after project for many third gens looking to clean up inside the engine bay. IMO in showcases the motor more than the tons of crap that's jumbled under the hood. If your like me and have deleted your a/c and heat its an awesome idea.

Also, not a fan of the passenger side harness cutout. I would have covered it. as well as removed the bump on the drivers side wheel well, but its shaved and smooth so it doesn't really stick out.

Filling the tower seams would be nice touch too. I know its a lot of work, I'm starting the shave as well while my engine is out and simultaneously putting in the new cam, bearings, pulleys, brackets and repaint. Hopefully ill have the engine and bay done by the end of may. Ive been on this tread a lot looking for ideas and inspiration. Ill post up pics when its done.

 

why nitpick the best looking smoothed engine bay? The owner did a fantastic job. There's always more that can be done, and there are several aspects of the car that I would do differently, but the fact that the only wires visible are the spark plug wires is a huge accomplishment!

 

Well, if you want to call it Nitpicking or not many people as well as I feel that if you can point out certain things that others may not pick up it may just help them with their project. Of course whoever did the work did a fantastic job any motor head can see that, but the next guy doing a similar project might benefit from an idea or ''constructive criticism" aka nitpicking. These are tech boards for this very reason. Judgment resulting in merit and fault is a common occurrence in the forum and that's very valuable IMO esspecially when building my own car.

 

 

^^damn that is clean! how much power is that motor putting out? PM me

 

Spike spike spike...... why dose it always take me an hr to look @ your car??

 

Has anyone used a remote mount booster or reverse mounted the stock one so it faces the inside of the car (like the hot rods and trucks)??? It would be cool to see a 3rdgen with NOTHING on the firewall...

 

It works for other cars but not 3rdgens, iv looked into this a lot the only way i found to do this was to mount it sideways under the dash, but coming up with a linkage would be a bit complex to say the least. i decided to check out other alternatives, i wanted something that looked nicer then stock, i looked at manual brakes and hydro boost but i ended up going with a LT1 booster and LS1 master and disc/disc prob valve.

 

I agree that there's always room for improvment and constructive criticism. I think the reason I decided to make my post is because it seemed like people were only criticising it because the owner of the car didn't post the pictures. I'm about to generalize, but often times I see people post poor quality work and receive mostly praise. Anyone that knocks such work is told to "be nice", so I thought it strange that this very well done work was receiving a good bit of negative feedback.

 

heres mine

 

wheel wells

 

That's a wet *** blue

 

 

how are you guys smoothing around the strut tower caps? Are you grinding them down and using body filler around them?? On page 1 I made a post that showed them TIG welded.

 

I used filler.

 

I have not seen this thread yet , but man, I love all the engine bays, looks awesome. Very clean, with it smoothed out. I welded my strut towers and grinded the towers smooth. Towers are definately not going anywhere(hah)Anyway. Bays looking good guys, here's some shots of mine and hopefully sometime, I'll have the engine in which I'll show a pic of also. Anyway, Thanks for looking, and man, killer jobs guys.........









Here's the engine going in....Very old school....but still cool looking, and yes, it fits



Talk to you all later
Marc

 

what kind on manifold is that and A+ on a super smooth paint job

 

It's an old Martin Turbo Kit...It's a 2-plane intake, when pressures applied , a flap goes up and the fuel/air mix goes into turbo, back under the carb intake...very old school. Not many people like this type setup,(no cooler can be applied) but I thought it was cool looking, especially for a Knight Rider car. They also are hard to fit as the K-member is usually in the way of the exhaust pipe, but if you cut about an inch off and turn the flange on manifold, or cut your K-member, it will fit. It does come very, very, close to the strut tower though, but I personally like that. (I'll just have to brace it up good for torque reasons) It's also an old Rajay turbo. Thanks for asking and thanks about the paint..

Marc

 

awesome restoration

 

WOW! is all I have to say. The work on here is phenomenal! This will be my next step I think. Should of done it when I did the motor build, but you know how that goes. Hind sight and money are 20 20. This post is killing me but great motivation.

 

some of you have the mounting mold on the fender smoothed out how are you doing this

 

Just thought I'd post an update of such......Well, actually, I've been quite busy... I'm switching from EFI to Carb. Before anybody goes, WHAT?!.... well, I just like carb better for reasons of simplicity and cleanliness of wires. I DO like EFI for efficiency and responce, but for this being mainly a show ride(my last one EVER) I went with carb. Also, for my Turbo setup , it will be alot easier to tune than an EFI setup.Anyway... My first routing of wires was to get rid of all ECM stuff(I have said other words here) I got rid of ECM materials which freed the harness up ALOT! ALOT!!! Anyhoot, after going through the wire harness, I had to get the original fuel relay going and wired up as I'm using the factory pump. All I have to say is Green and white wire are 12v IGN. Anyway. After wiring this, along with trying to think of everything else( OPSU, Tach, Battery, etc, etc...... I moved on to the C100s headlight harness . This usually runs on the sub-frame on driver side under booster/brakes. I wanted this gone and while looking on other boards, alot of the guys are putting the lighting control wires going to front under the fender. This is how I did mine..... I added about a foot , maybe foot and a half to wire and I mounted mine under the fender. I know, I cut the metal....what about water, etc, etc, ..... well, hopefully it will be mainly dry conditions when showing...hah! Anyway. So , this maybe not to all the greatest mod in the world , but , I personally love the bay without the wires now. Anyway, here's a pic.... of the underneath of fender... still need to put my gasket I found to cover hole, but anyway....

This actually works pretty good... Anyway. Next..... The Relays for fuel pump and fans are on a bracket, but I chose to get rid of the fan relay and have just the fuel pump relay. I will run the fans thermal or with one of the many Knight Rider switches on the consoles. Anyway, cool thing is, the relay with a clamp holder piece fit good on the back side of the booster quite well actually. Here's another pic...

Well, after all that, I moved on to the new Stainless lines for brakes for Inline Tubing... These are fantastic, fit was perfect!!! I polished these bad boys out , then installed them...Turned out nice, only one thing though...... the distribution for brakes... wOW is all I can say, what a B!*() to polish out!!! Anyway, lots of sanding and lots of polishing. Anyway. It's all done and now, I may be able to move on to only two more things before engine goes in.... inside wire harness( probably aLOT easier) and the fuel lines....has to be easier than brakes...Anyway....Here's the rest of the pics....

 

man...
you guys got some nice 3rd gens... finished up my patches and shot some paint a few days ago (flat black bay, satin black wells)... see my patch panels on page 1

before


bay and firewall




wheel well


from the bottom

 

I also started smoothing the strut towers. How are you guys filling the unused holes in the wheel wells? I will not be using the well mounted over flow bottles...

 

I welded mine and shaped with grinder, not fun at all...and very time consuming. Then I feeled mine in with All Metal, and of course , good ol' Rage Gold. I also used glass and resin in a few areas, but not much. I didn't have to use much rage and stuff as that most of the shape was created from actual metal being put in. I have pics if needed of how I did mine. Is it the correct way? Is there a correct way? Don't know, this is how I did mine though. Hope this helped, If you need pics , let me know....

Marc

 

I've been told that the caps move quite a bit, but a friend of mine did the same thing with fiberglass filler and lite filler... 2 yrs later, no cracks... I don't know if there is a right way to do it.

guess I'm screwed if this dose not work. I will have to take everything back down and do it again.