erictheviking

Hi,
I've just started doing a few parts for myself, with a new powder coating and oven set-up. The parts are not perfect, but I'm still learning. Having said that, I'm happy with the results. I've done the valve covers (candy red over chrome silver), Serpentine brackets (titanium), and intercooler pipework (satin black) so far. Be warned, it is very addictive!

I built my own oven out of virtually junk, its propane heated and works well.

More pics to follow, as i'll probably rip the whole car apart and powder coat everything?!

puma1552

iTrader: (1)

Doesn't look bad at all for a first time, should be pretty easy to master if that's your first attempt.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Nice looking. What did you use to mask off the chevrolet? Just tape, then remove it before baking?
To be honest, i'm most curious how you built your own oven? How did you regulate the heat? Essentially a home made BBQ?

erictheviking

I didnt have any hi temp masking tape to hand, so I used an abrasive flap wheel to take the coating off. Very easy, took 20 mins, then polished them. As for the oven, I do eventually want to build some auto controls to regulate the heat, But for now I have a very good temp guage, and regulate the heat manually, I can keep it within 3 degrees by doing this. The oven doesnt look pretty, but is big enough for 20" wheels or a rearend, and is made from metal stud and sheet steel.

erictheviking

Heres the oven

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Erictheviking - Looks good so far! As far as taking the powder off the raised letters, you should be able to wipe the powder off the letters with a soft cloth after you spray them but before you bake them. Then you can shake the cloth off into the container of unused powder and save it for next time. I've been working on building my own oven for over a year now. I'm having trouble sourcing the metal studs and insulation locally as I live in a small town and everyone here still uses wood studs for construction. I'm using an old refrigerator and an old electric oven for the parts for mine.

2 questions for you:

What did you use for insulation? Do you have a vent installed?



Sonix - If you're interested in getting into powder coating and building an oven, check out this site:

http://forum.caswellplating.com/

They have sections dedicated to threads on powdercoating and on oven building. I've found it extremely helpful in learning what I need to get started and on how to build my oven.

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

I've always wondered (crazy idea) about powdercoating the whole body, fenders.....No paint except bumper covers. Would the heat warp the thin body?

Take a helluva oven to fit!

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

There are places that can powdercoat full frames for frame-off restoration of older muscle cars and trucks. They should have no problem fitting a thirdgen body in one of their ovens. The price would be ridiculously high though I would imagine as the prep work take forever. You would have to remove ALL the seam sealer and paint from the body for proper adhesion of the powder. From a rust-proofing standpoint though, it would be worth. If you could do most of the prep yourself you might even get it down a reasonable cost.

erictheviking

I was going to wipe the powder off, but I had pre-heated the covers to 250C, to prevent outgassing. This made the powder stick like hell! So I couldnt wipe it off.
I also used an old stainless fridge for a starting point, took out the old foam, screwed some stud on, and used mineral wool for the new insulation. I was lucky as I work in construction, so it was all offcuts and stuff in the skip.
As for the vent, there is sufficient enough gaps around the intake.

I also used Caswells site, and Eastwoods for tons of info.

As for the whole car? Yes! a very big oven! Not sure about warpage, the parts are baked at 200C

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

very cool, great first attempt. always wanted to get into powder coating, everything just looks so much better when its been coated

erictheviking

Thanks for the kind words, I will put some more stuff on when I've done it, which wont be long.

seiplentz

iTrader: (2)

Looks pretty good the pre heating you did just hot flocked the powder. You should outgass around 450f then cool to about 180f before you spray. Or room temp if your using a quality gun.

erictheviking

I did preheat them to the right temp I think, came out ok, although I did get a small amount of small marks from outgassing. Im all ears to any suggestions to make it better. The principle of powder coating is easy, to get it perfect needs good advice and time. It is a very addictive thing, mainly because of the quick turnaround and good results.

seiplentz

iTrader: (2)

This is my process and I use a Kool Koat 2.0 gun from columbia coatings.
Outgass at 450f for 1 hour to an 1 and half then cool
Sandblast with 80 grit aluminum oxide.
Blow off and wipe down with acetone
1st coat gun set at 60kv then baked at 385f for 15-20 min after the part reaches the set temp of 385f

2nd coat if a chrome base is done first it needs to completely cool to room temp before a 2nd coat be done other colors you can cool to around 180f and start with the gun set at 30kv. If your gun can do 2nd coats at room temp its best to do it that way.

A good trick for raised letters is to use a lint roller to take the powder off before baking. And I do agree the parts do look good and it is very addictive. I started for my parts to now i'm onto other peoples parts.

85Z28NOS

iTrader: (2)

Pre bake is almost a must for any porus material, especially if it has any oil saturation on it. Here is a oven I built in my last garage for doing motorcycle frames and my car parts. I built it using double stacked 1" thick fire retardant drywall (2" total) with sheetmetal on the outside. I used some big electric elements from a metal melting furnace along with a Honeywell industrial furnace controller from the same metal furnace. Sure do miss it right now, moved and had to leave the main part but took the elements and controller with me.