Alright well as some of you are going to disagree with this method i used to paint my vehicle I just need to know some info on a few tools.
So I did the supposedly $50 rolled on rustoleum paint job (more like $125) and Im done with the hood and roof so far but havent buffed and polished it yet, and I have never buffed or polished a car so my questions are

1.Will my angle grinder work for the buffing or polishing part?

2.Do they make the buffing or polishing pads for eletric drills like an attachment?

3.im like 95% sure that you buff first then polish it correct?

4.Whats the best protective polishing compound

 

This should be good.

 

Some pics would help.

 

Don't use your angle grinder you will burned through the paint, you need an actual buffer. Your also going to need wet sanding paper to get rid of orange pill

 

No you don't buff first then polish. The terms buffing and polishing are really ambiguous and are almost interchangeable in many cases.

Polishing and buffing will 9 times out of 10 mean the act of using a product "polish"

Polish is a abrasive liquid or substance that when applied properly will knock down or remove fine imperfections in the material you are polishing.

Sometimes "buffing" is used in the term "buffing out" which is applying product them buffing or polishing until there is no product left.


Seems as if you need to do a LOT more research. To answer some of your questions, leaving it to you to research in depth:

1) No your angle grinder will not work in its current state. You need a dual action or a high speed rotary polisher/sander.

2) Yes they do, but if you get the correct tool ie. Dual action polisher or high speed rotary, there are specific backing plates, wool, and foam pads that are used in order to get the correct amount of "cut" for your application. You used several different pads in succession to step up the amount of cut from aggressive to fine in order to give you optimal finish.

3) Answered this question in my first statement.

4) True polishes don't protect. A real polish contains no fillers or protectants, and when used properly should have no trace after the product is "buffed" off.

I feel that I have to add this: You will not be able to truely alter or perfect any imperfections in your finish. ie. orange peel, runs, scratches, high spots, low spots. with a polisher alone. You will need to wet sand any heavy imperfections out, then a polisher will remove mild scratches, marring, and haze from sandpaper.

For step by step instructions on what to do and how to do it please research.

 

Ya I already fineshed the hood from 650 wet, 800wet, 1200 wett, and 2000wet now i just need to know what i was told which i figured the grinder would burn through lol, but what abut the drill?

 

Yes I understand everything about this painting method ecxpet the buffing and polishing part, and my hood already looks as good as a new car before buff and polish, well there are some small imperfections but not very noticable, so basicaly buffing takes out scrathces and stuff and the polisher is what shines up paint, but doesnt protect it?

 

You are going to have a really hard time removing sanding scratches if you jumped from 1200 to 2000 and then just stopped.

Drill attachments are going to be sub par. Although you can find backing plates out there that will accept hook and loop pads you will have very little RPM and little control from the trigger.

You want the right tools.

 

Did you read anything I wrote in my post.

The terms are ambiguous. They are often used interchangeably.

Buffing often refers to "buffing out" which is the removal of some compound by a machine or by hand. (which is not limited to polish can also be wax or other compounds) You can buff with a polishing compound, or wax. You can NOT polish with a wax.

Polishing is often referring to the use of a compound in order to remove imperfections either by hand or by machine. (polishing can only be done with an abrasive compound and not with wax, sealant or protectant)

The terms are insignificant. What is significant is the action you choose with a particular product.

 

I meant 1500 gritt, not 2000 my bad its bean a few weeks since i messed with it more.
Also if i dont polish or buff for awhile can i wet sand with the 1500gritt in a month or two then lay down 2 coats on the hood and buff polish, or will it throw something off since im sure you cant just basically apply a new coat of paint to it whenever you please can you? If so I can have a fresh paint job every 2 years lol

 

Gonna be real tough to take out 1500 grit marks if they werent finished with 2K

If you wanna take out the 1500 by polishing, your gonna need a high speed rotary with a wool pad, or at the very least a meguirs maroon foam compounding pad.

About the only polish I know of that will get rid of 1500 g marks is Megs #105, assuming you really finished each step of coarser grits off properly. This polish will have to be used by the above method.

No drills with bootleg pads, no 20$ orbital buffers from autozone, no jimmy rigged die-grinders. Gonna need the right tools to do it the correct way. Though the the word correct to one man means something entirely different to another.

 

blasphemy

 

Ohh I thought that the higher gritt sand paper is finer and leaves less marks, but come to think of it since you said that above, basicaly the fner paper leaves alot of small scratches, and the lower number paper leaves deeper scratches

 

I also would like to see some photos , you know before and after.

Side note = carlos64030, that little smiley had me laughing my A-- off !!!!

 

80, 100, 120, 180, 200, 220, 280, 320, 400.........800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 1800, 2000, 2500, 3000, 4000

Coarse to fine. not all grits included but you get the idea. The more steps the better the finish.