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Winter is coming....What do I do to prepare my car for storage?

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Old Nov 11, 2001 | 10:48 AM
  #1  
jm91rs's Avatar
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From: cinti
Winter is coming....What do I do to prepare my car for storage?

I am going to be storing my car in the garage this winter with a cover on it. What do I do to prepare it? How often should I run it? Should I put something in the gas? how much gas should I leave in the tank? I need to know all of this stuff and more. THanks.

------------------
Jeremy
91 rs, convertible, K&N, Edelbrock open element cleaner, 3.73, B&M mega-shifter, goodmark cowl-induction hood,tinted windows,MacEwen Overlays
4th gen seats, SS Chrome wheels, check out my ride at www.racecamaro.cz28.com or check out the reader's rides at: https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=1217
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Old Nov 11, 2001 | 03:54 PM
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From: Tulsa, OK
Put the car on jackstands (under the rear end and control arms to keep the suspension loaded) so that the tires are off the ground. That'll keep them from getting a flatspot from sitting in one place for so long. Fill up the tank and use a gasoline stabilizer. Follow it's directions. Top off all the fluids. Clean and wax the car and dress the weatherseals. Stuff rags into the tailpipes to keep out the pests and leave a post-it note on the steering wheel reminding you to take them out before you start the car. Disconnect the battery. Some places sell large packets of dessicant. Get a couple of them and leave them inside the car (to absorb any humidity; keeps the musty smell away).
I believe starting the car twice a month is best for keeping the engine in good shape (let it warm up so the thermostat opens up to circulate the coolant and the oil can have time to make it's round trip too).
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Old Nov 13, 2001 | 03:15 PM
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From: cinti
Thanks, good tips, what should I dress the seals with?

------------------
Jeremy
91 rs, convertible, K&N, Edelbrock open element cleaner, 3.73, B&M mega-shifter, goodmark cowl-induction hood,tinted windows,MacEwen Overlays
4th gen seats, SS Chrome wheels, check out my ride at www.racecamaro.cz28.com or check out the reader's rides at: https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=1217
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Old Nov 13, 2001 | 03:40 PM
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Jza
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From: Tulsa, OK
Something silicon based. Oil can break down the rubber. Just a light coat of silicon penetrating spray.
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Old Nov 13, 2001 | 11:11 PM
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From: michigan
i would stay away from the jackstands; other than that everything else is good.

if your that worried about your tires buy those plastic parking blocks that have a molded tire groove to save the tire. or buy some cheap rims; otherwise your just putting more stress on your frame then you want to do.
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Old Nov 14, 2001 | 12:24 AM
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From: Ivanhoe, MN USA
The car will be fine on jackstands. Theres no more stress there then if it were on its tires. The weight is still there.

------------------
1992 Camaro Z-28 custom 25th anniversary, 5.7 TPI auto, 2.73 posi, t-tops, arctic white with 92' medium mettalic gray stripes with black border stripe.

1967 Pontiac Catalina 2 door fastback, 400 v-8, auto, cameo white, dark red interior

1987 Olds Cutlass, 350 Rocket, auto, dark gray/light gray interior
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Old Nov 14, 2001 | 11:47 PM
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From: michigan
no it's not a good idea; without getting in to much detail think of it this way, when you go to an automotive museum do you ever see cars up on jack stands? not unless it's in for service.

read most service manuals they often tell one not to leave the car up on jackstands for extended periods of time. but it's your car my friend, do what you like.
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Old Nov 15, 2001 | 12:02 AM
  #8  
chevyboy07 91's Avatar
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From: down by the river
just the other day I saw some interesting "stuff" at Pep Boys. You remove each spark plug and spray this "stuff" into the cylinders...it is supposed to keep the cylinder walls, etc free from corrosion....what do you guys think? I believe its better for just a motor sitting out of the car b/c w/ it in the car it would be a PITA
*edit* I guess if you are planning on firing it up evey couple weeks you don't need this stuff anyway

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Alex A. (aka chevyboy)
1992 Z-28 L98/1LE. Heritage Edition. SLP runners, gutted cats, SLP 3" cat-back & muffler. 3" flo-tech cut-out, SLP TB foil, K&N filter @ TB, 3.23 posi rear.

[This message has been edited by chevyboy07 91 (edited November 14, 2001).]
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Old Nov 15, 2001 | 12:10 AM
  #9  
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From: W, NJ, US
Want too keep tires good? I say get a pulley system, with heavy duty cables. Wrap them around your car, flip the switch, and have your car hang for the winter, and as it rises up, be sure to salute it. LoL.

Its just an RS, its hardly gonna be terrible in the snow. But if you really want to keep it stored, then store it, but jeez, don't go overboard with it. Clean it, put it in the garage, and shut it.
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Old Nov 16, 2001 | 07:04 AM
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From: Sun Prairie, WI, USA
I have been told not the run the engine over winter storage. I was told all that did was increase the number of dry starts which are more damaging. I also was not told put the car on block.

------------------
Patrick Malinowski
1991 Z28 Convertible
25K original miles.
2002 Acura TL Type S (Daily Driver. Hey it has got 260 hp 0 to 60 in 6.4)
2000 Impala (wife's)
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Old Nov 16, 2001 | 08:30 AM
  #11  
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From: Tulsa, OK
F-bodies suck in the snow.

Right. "Don't leave the car on jackstands for extended periods of time." This is referring to having an unloaded suspension (in other words stands under the framerails not supporting any of the suspension components). It's okay to have the car up for an extended period if the stands are, like I said, under the rear axle and front control arms. This loads the suspension and is no different from the car sitting on its tires.

If you go to an automotive museum, you're not expecting those cars to fire up and drive off come summer. No, they're not on jackstands, but most likely, they're also not in immediate driving condition and aren't expected to be any time soon.

As for putting something in the cylinders through the spark plug holes, you can accomplish the same thing with a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder, then turning over the engine a bit with no fuel or spark.

And about running the car over winter storage, we're talking about twice a month for, what, three months? Six starts probably won't kill it...

If you can't understand what I'm trying to say about loaded/unloaded suspensions, and if you really think three months on stands is going to hurt it, fine, put an old set of wheels/tires on and let it sit there. Or if you have crap wheels and tires that you don't care about to begin with, fine.
But if you're like me and have a $700 set of tires, I'll be damned if I drove off next spring to find a vibration that won't go away with any balance job.

It all really doesn't matter to me anyway. I live in Florida. I can drive all year.
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Old Nov 16, 2001 | 09:05 AM
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From: Salina, KS
First a little background. I live in South Dakota. I've been dealing with 3rdgens and winter conditions since 1995.

In light snow and ice, a thirdgen will typically be a handful but it can be done. Rear brakes typically can't keep the wheels from turning at stoplights, but its manageable. More than 5" of snow and the bottom of the car will be plowing snow.
I did 3rdgen on ice for 2 years, the 3rd year I stored it and got an S10 for ice and snow.

On to storing... I've stored my Formula, my Iroc, and my Convertible every winter since I've owned them. My storage process is rather simple and realistic, and works fine even considering that I store them for 6-9 months at a time.

1. I try to wash the car completely, however they never see rain so usually its just a thin coat of dust.
2. I change the oil. It doesn't matter if its been 3 months or 3000 miles since the last change, I change it.
3. I fill the gastank and add the correct amount of fuel stabilizer as prescribed on the bottle. All 3rd gens use a 16 gallon tank.
4. I drive the car for 20 miles per the instructions on the stabilizer.
5. I park the car in the garage, and remove the battery. I store my batteries in my parents basement off the floor where they wont be effected by extreme temp changes.
6. I put either a sheet of cardboard, carpet, etc under the car to catch any drips.
7. I place mousetraps in the garage.
8. I lock the doors, lock the garage and wait till nice weather.

Typically I like to check to make sure the cars are still there every 2 weeks or so, and to check that the garages are remaining water-tight.
If you choose to start the car, you're best off to drive the car at moderate speeds for 20 miles or 20 minutes. Otherwise you're causing more harm then good. Personally I cancel all but my comprehensive insurance to save money while the cars in storage.

Come summer, I open the garage, reinstall the battery, and the cars fire up first try.
Some sources suggest changing the oil again, personally I don't see any reasonable reason. I've never had any problems with flat spotted tires, but then again I'm running steel belted radials, they're more likely to dry rot and weather check, than to flat spot. My Iroc leaves the garage once every 3 months, the rest of the time it sits on the BFG's... again never had a flat spot problem. My convertible has the original tires all around and again doesn't have any flat spotting issues.

Storing the car on jackstands is a bad idea, even more so if the car has ttops. These cars don't have stiff frames, no need to put more stress on them. They've spent how many years on their suspension? 6 months in storage isn't going to hurt them.
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Old Dec 9, 2001 | 12:34 AM
  #13  
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From: cinti
moving back up for more tips
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Old Dec 9, 2001 | 12:37 AM
  #14  
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From: cinti
On drew's point on jackstands, I would be worse off since I got a vert, right?
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Old Dec 9, 2001 | 02:13 AM
  #15  
CD MaroMan 91's Avatar
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From: Florence, MS, USA
Ok... I have ONE car... which is my 91 RS... does it hurt it by driving in the winter? I mean what could I possibly harm by doing it. Or since it's my driver to school and soccer practice what should I do to keep it from screwing up??

------------------
'91 Camaro RS 3.1L V6
4th Gen Seats, Sony Xplod CD Player, DJ Sexay's Kicks Panels with a Polk Audio 6½" Comp Set, 2 RF Punch 12's, RF Punch Amp 100.2, Coustic 360W Amp.
Soon to come, New Rims, New Rear Tires, Paint Job, Interior Color Change.


http://www.geocities.com/adidaspredator21/index.html
**Got the new door on... gettin car painted in about a month or two...**
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Old Dec 9, 2001 | 02:35 AM
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
If your going to drive it in winter, ,first rule is obvious- be smart and be careful in bad weather.

I suppose the best thing you can do to protect the car is make sure to keep it clean, especially from salt. After driving on roads that Have been salted I take my car to the car wash and get the underbody sprayed ASAP to get the salt off. After last winter my 2000 GA still looks new.

------------------
86 Sport Coupe, 2.8 V6, dead stock, but not for long!
Coming soon: paint job, new interior, MSD-6A, MSD GM Blaster Coil, MSD 8mm Helicore wires, Catco Hi-Flo cat, Dynomax Cat-Back, K&N Filters

Daily driver:
2000 Pontiac Grand Am SE2

www.geocities.com/camman86
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Old Dec 9, 2001 | 04:57 PM
  #17  
jm91rs's Avatar
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From: cinti
Yeah, salt is the reason I am parking mine
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