Jonnie305

I want to clean my Engine Its a 89 TBI 305 How Can I Pressure Wash it with Soap and Water and Towles n Sponges Ect...Does anybody know how to properly do it wothout damaging the Distributor what to Becareful Of Thanks for the Help

Ghettobird52

I've heard personally and read nothing but horror stories from people after they 'pressure washed' or sprayed the engine bay and cleaned it. I've never done it and never will.

Now i have cleaned my engine bay by by hand plenty of times, hot water and soap works great with hand towels, (brake cleaner sprayed on a rag works well too) just don't expect it to look show car clean, it is a 25+ year old car.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Pressure washing engines is to iffy a proposition imo. These electronics were manufactured and insulated to withstand water splashing from the tires, not 50/70/100+ psi from above. Most homes' water regulator is set for a max of 75 psi so one could argue that just a garden hose with a jet setting on a nozzle is too much. I have friends who have pressure washed engines and when they go to start them, nothing.

I'm not against using the spray foam engine degreaser and a mist/shower setting on a garden hose. I've never had a problem with that method. Purchase a name brand foaming degreaser and use some toothbrushes or little scrub brushes and paper towels and then hose off. Alternatively you can purchase the foaming aluminum wheel cleaner since it is basically the same stuff. Best advice is to not spray the distributor cap or underneath it. Once the engine is clean use one of Meguiars natural shine protectants for rubber. Like Ghetto said, you'll end up with a clean engine but it won't look like it just rolled of the assembly line.

Jonnie305

Well yeah i can defly see presure washing being too much like u said the garden hose and adjuster is harmless as long as i cover up the Distributor and TBI i will defly try the degreaser method with brushes doing it by hand i also found that using a Air compressor line with a air chuck works well for blowing away leaves and rust flakes

Jonnie305

Considering im gonna be changing my Intake and my Valve Covers anyway later on it may not be a need to cuz only the top half is dirty and the pulley area is dirty but the sides are okay its mainly just the "Engine Bay" Not so much the Engine

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

I used to work at a truck wash and I've pressure washed my engine bay many times as well as brand new trucks and tractor trailers but I honestly don't recommend doing it. as everyone said the risk of messing something up is very high. When I did do it I would put a bag over the alternator and distributor and held the wash gun about two feet from the engine at all times. obviously if you have a carb'd or TBI car then youll want to cover them very well, I had TPI so it wasn't as risky.

I recommend just taking your time and detailing one area of the engine bay each day, If you go to repair something then when you have that area apart, clean it very well before re assembly.

Ron U.S.M.C.

There are 20+year old very small in diameter, hard molded vacuum lines in the bay that you will need to be very careful around. They crack and brake under pressure.

I would use, as suggested hot soap and water and if needed "simple green" lightly and wipe off what you can by hand.

Here's a product that I really like and use it on all of the black parts of the car in the bay .
I have tried many but this is the one and it can be found at your local auto parts store.
Here's a photo after applying it to a clean rag and wiping it down.

ktthecarguy

Hi there,
I have a cleaning routine I use, that has pretty good results. Some tools and cleaners:
1 (or more) used toothbrush
1 larger style brush, like a dishwashing brush
old used scotchbrite scrubber pads
old socks or shop towels
Walmart cheap all-purpose spray cleaner
engine degreaser spraycan
brake parts cleaner spray can
bottle of mineral spirits
no-touch foamy tire cleaner spray can
garden hose


I start at the back of the engine bay, so I am not leaning over a wet engine. I use the all-purpose cleaner, and the toothbrush and start scrubbing any dirty spots. I start with the brake master cylinder and booster, since they often had a leak and are quite grimy. I continue along the firewall, using the engine degreaser spray on any stubborn spots. Start with a small area, and spray it clean with the hose, then move on to the next spot.


I keep working towards the front of the engine bay, until it is coming clean. I then go back with brake cleaner on any really stubborn oily spots. I re-hit it with the all-purpose cleaner and hose it off. then I wipe off any remaining residue with the mineral spirits.


Finally, I spray the whole compartment down with no-touch tire foam. I let the foam bubbles die down a bit, then wipe off the excess with the rags. It gives the plastics and satin black metals a nice sheen, without looking too slimy. the whole thing usually takes me less than an hour.


Remember to cover up any exposed electrical parts, like distributor, and the air cleaner (if exposed).


Here is an after pic (sorry I don't have a before pic.)

Jonnie305

Looks really good man you got skills if i can figure out ways to hide alot of these sloppy wires it will look even better on my car

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The stuff that I think is by far the best is also a Meguiar's product.



This stuff is sold in the gallon so you get a lot but you can dilute it up to 4:1 which makes this stuff at least 1/2 the price of the regular Meguiar's spray bottles. As long as you don't let it freeze you can consider this a lifetime supply.

chazman

iTrader: (4)

As has been mentioned, don't power wash. Mist the engine compartment with water, taking special care to not soak any electricals. Then while wet spray down the engine compartment with a degreaser like Simple Green. Give it a few minutes for the chemistry to become your friend. Then get an assortment of brushes so you can get into the nooks and crannies. Some disassembly may be required, (ie., washer and coolant tank removal).

Do a quarter of the the engine compartment at a time. When you've done a good job, rinse off that quarter and go to the next one.

When done you may have to rinse and repeat.

After that use the dressing of your choice.

88IROCvertZ

iTrader: (1)

Exactly.. you don’t need water pressure..

I have a wash mit set aside for engine bays.. degreaser and light rinsing will get your parts clean.. no pressure.. soap, water and mit for the paint and dusty top areas.

I usually cover the battery, distributor, and Alternator in plastic or trash bags just to avoid accidental moisture.. use as little water as possible.. trickle just to rinse..

I usually use a cleaner wax or a polish/wax combo on the paint and dressing on anything black..

Tire foam works really good too but Meguiars Supreme shine is a great product..

I have power washed engines before as well but it ends up getting your nose and fenders all messy.. it’s not worth it and doesn’t save time.. the degreasers will do the work.. not worth it on a 20+ year old car either..

88IROCvertZ

iTrader: (1)

Forgot to also mention.. don’t wash a hot engine, but y’all probably knew that..

Big&BadGTA

iTrader: (1)

Cover alternator, brake reservoir, distributor, and any other electronics not in a weather pack connector. Watch out on the MAF and air cleaner areas, too.

Simple green, or some of the other foaming cleaners, but not pressure washing.