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I have used the Meguiar's line of products for years. I just moved up from their old 3 step product line (cleaner, polish, wax) to the new Ultimate line (compound, polish, wax). The polish step kept leaving a haze on the hood that was impossible to remove and could only be seen at just the right angle. I could remove it with a little hard rubbing with my fingers but it would not come off with multiple types of cotton rags or microfiber towel. I even tried a paper towel and window cloth. I was hesitant to move on but tried it in other spots throughout the car and it wiped right off. I am pretty sure the hood has been repainted and there must be something different with the paint/clear on the hood that just doesn't work well with that polish. It was very strange as the condition of the hood is great. My steps I took for the car was - washed, clay barred, compound, and then the polish when the problem arised. I was applying the polish in small section with an orbital polisher, in small sections, and on cool paint.
I am really posting this for anyone else that may have this issue with Polish Hazing. I did scour the Megs forums with others having a similar issue with no real answers. One person on the forum there did have a very similar experience that I did that it worked well on most of his vehicle but not on a section he knew was repainted. I plan to try again in the future when the car is ready. If anyone else has any ideas to why this would happen I would love to hear them.
I'm still learning to do this (on other cars) but it seems odd the polish step would be the issue. usually you hear of clay bar or compound step causing issues. I've been using their 3 step DA professional process w/o a hitch. my biggest problem is clay bar streaks and the compound step not being aggressive enough to take out swirl marks - and that is likely user error. DA300/302, ect. I'm also experimenting with some of the their other professional compounds, but am side tracked with other things at the moment. Over all I really like all of their products, cleaners and all. good bang for the buck.
For polish you’re only supposed to do a small section at a time and don’t let it dry like you do wax..
make sure the polishing pad is flat to the paint or use one of those “pad holders”... this will help prevent putting marks in the clear from angling the pad.
if a section of polish dries and is stubborn, use the pad again over that section and wipe off immediately with a microfiber..
Don’t use pressure when using polish.. Let the product do the work and don’t use too much..
rub polish in with the pad pad and wipe off immediately with microfiber..
If you claybar first the polish will also come off easier..
For polish you’re only supposed to do a small section at a time and don’t let it dry like you do wax..
make sure the polishing pad is flat to the paint or use one of those “pad holders”... this will help prevent putting marks in the clear from angling the pad.
if a section of polish dries and is stubborn, use the pad again over that section and wipe off immediately with a microfiber..
Don’t use pressure when using polish.. Let the product do the work and don’t use too much..
rub polish in with the pad pad and wipe off immediately with microfiber..
If you claybar first the polish will also come off easier..
Yep, did all that. That's why it was such a weird problem. Only the hood had the issue.
Did you clay first? Was the paint warm or not inside or in the shade?
sounds like the polish is drying too fast to me.. maybe work a smaller area..
I have used Quik detailer to aid in removing polish residue..
I have had varying results with polish.. Temperature and humidity makes a difference too..
Usually the Meguiars Ultimate line is pretty easy to use but I have had easier and tougher times on different vehicles in different conditions..
Polishing is definitely a lot more work and care than waxing by hand or by machine..
I covered all that in the original post. I did have to use the quick detailer on the hood to remove the polish. All other panels on the car the polish wiped right off as it should. There must have been some strange paint to polish reaction. Not sure what since the paint looks and feels the same.
The hood would be more oxidized than the sides.. It’s exposed to more sun, more debris, rain, etc.. Different panels will always be different to care for..
Treat it different..
What exact kind of polish were you using? A mirror glaze finishing polish or show car glaze is sometimes a pain to remove
The hood would be more oxidized than the sides.. It’s exposed to more sun, more debris, rain, etc.. Different panels will always be different to care for..
That was my thought. Oxidation. Clay bars and more polish (that stuff is barely a polish to begin with, it's more for removing scratches from washing IMO) won't fix it. I've had similar experiences with hard water spots on car panels and the horizontal panels that begin to develop oxidation. I'd bet that hood just has a light amount of oxidation on it. Buy some 2000 and 3000 sandpaper and the Meguiars M105. Remove the bulk of oxidation with the 2000 and then move on to the 3000. Finish with the M105. If you use a softer pad you won't need to use the M205 or another polish afterwards.
You can tremendously cut down your time if you pay a little extra for the 2000 and 3000 grit pads meant for a DA sander. Assuming you have an electric or air DA. Only issue is you have to keep moving, just like with a polisher.
Well at first I assumed it was micro marring and that the clear on your hood was softer than the rest of you car. But if it's coming off with your fingers I assume it's some type of film? I've never seen or heard of that before. That's weird.
That was my thought. Oxidation. Clay bars and more polish (that stuff is barely a polish to begin with, it's more for removing scratches from washing IMO) won't fix it.
In the Meguiar's system, the polish is only for removing left over marks from the their compound. It is also used for the oils to add that deep gloss look.
The Meguiar's forum is a good resource for paint care and Meguiar as a company is active in their as well.
Well at first I assumed it was micro marring and that the clear on your hood was softer than the rest of you car. But if it's coming off with your fingers I assume it's some type of film? I've never seen or heard of that before. That's weird.
It was very strange how it would come off to a deep gloss shine with my finger with just moderate pressure but no matter any other type of towel and pressure I used would remove it until I sprayed the quick detailer which helped remove most but not all of the haze.
That was my thought. Oxidation. Clay bars and more polish (that stuff is barely a polish to begin with, it's more for removing scratches from washing IMO) won't fix it. I've had similar experiences with hard water spots on car panels and the horizontal panels that begin to develop oxidation. I'd bet that hood just has a light amount of oxidation on it. Buy some 2000 and 3000 sandpaper and the Meguiars M105. Remove the bulk of oxidation with the 2000 and then move on to the 3000. Finish with the M105. If you use a softer pad you won't need to use the M205 or another polish afterwards.
You can tremendously cut down your time if you pay a little extra for the 2000 and 3000 grit pads meant for a DA sander. Assuming you have an electric or air DA. Only issue is you have to keep moving, just like with a polisher.
Right on.. Thats more a finishing polish before the paint was ready..
Try a medium or fine cut first.. Tibo isn’t wrong about the sanding or wet sanding, but that can also take out texture and your other panels won’t match texture (but only freaks will notice)
It comes off with your finger and with detail mist because it’s dried polish residue and needs moisture/oily skin to be removed..
05-09-2019, 10:44 AM
