Can someone tell me the distance from the rear of the "T" Bar to the front edge of the rear hatch. I'm trying to align the rear hatch, trying to get rid of a 1/2" overhang of the rear of the hatch. Not sure if it is acceptable or not, want to be sure, if I do adjust it, that it will clear the "T" bar and not scrape it. Does that make sense.............?

 

A problem of seemingly 98% of f-bodys.

The hinges that attach the hatch glass to the body & attach to the glass itself are not adjustable.

A better approach would be following the tech article on fixing this

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...tchalign.shtml

 

So you're saying that its the hatch panal (lower outside cover) thats out of adjustment. My rear hatch striker bar catches the latch at the foward most part of the striker. That indicates to me that the whole glass is out by at least 1/2" to 3/4" inches. I've read that article and it appears to talk only about the panal covering the glass on the lower, aft, end of glass.... Let me know what you think.

 

In case I'm misunderstanding, I attached a pic of the assumed problem.

The hatch deck alignment seems to have slipped past GM "quality control department" for roughly 10 years. You can feel free to rip your trim down inside & unblot the glass from the hinges looking for some kind of adjustment but, I can bet you you'll have wasted your time. The striker on the rear deck itself (the little U-bar shaped thingy) is adjustable. As long as it's catching fine, I wouldn't (personally) worry about it. If you think the whole glass is out of alignment, check the gap across the top and along the sides, I'd guess you'll find the gap fairly uniform. The gap along the top has to be somewhat sized to allow the hatch to open.

Or, you could be talking about something else & I'm just babbling on about usless crap ...
(wouldn't be a 1st )

 

Hey deadbird.......Your picture is exactly what I'm talking about. The gap at the top of the hatch (between the hatch and the "T" bar also seems a bit wide to me.......about the same amount as the overlap. The last time I had the Glass to Hinge bolts loose it seemed to me that I was able to move the glass left and right, fore and aft, due to the oversized holes in the glass. I thought that was some sort of adjustment for the glass. Maybe not. Have you ever had the glass to hinge bolts loose? SOOOOO your saying live with it???????????

 

Mine is also out of line a little oh well!!

 

Tech article... Hatch deck alignment....
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...tchalign.shtml

I might know a little about what's under the hatch glass hinges...

 

Ed, I already e-mailed you the answer but I'll post it here as well: I'm a 'vert guy, but I can answer the question for all you coupe guys & gals. The problem isn't at the hinge location. It is caused by the gas struts constant force on the hatch metal portion. Evidently the nuts that attach it vibrate loose enough with time enough for the gas struts to shift the metal portion towards the rear of the car. Dyno Don L. on the So. Cal. Board explained the problem to me briefly and the solution. With the hatch in the up position (least gas pressure from struts is being exerted) loosen the attaching hardware. Then press down on the metal portion and re-tighten the nuts. I hope this helps, Lon.

 

OK Guys, see if I got it. we're saying that it's the metal panal at the rear of the glass hatch, has shifted to the rear, cuasing the appearance that the whole hatch has moved back. The fix is to realign the metal panal not the glass?.....

Thanks Lon, I'll wait the hear from you about my order.

Also, thanks deadbird for the Pix..I'll let you know how I make out.

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