Adhesive
Adhesive
My 1990 firebird has been modified
with a 91-92 style spoiler.
It is the large wrap around piece.
Unfortunately the top and bottom halfs are
separating.
I would like to glue them together
but am not sure what I can use for an adhesive.
with a 91-92 style spoiler.
It is the large wrap around piece.
Unfortunately the top and bottom halfs are
separating.
I would like to glue them together
but am not sure what I can use for an adhesive.
Hmmm....
Although I think this thing
is from a 91-92 car
it might be aftermarket.
Markings on the wing...
VT 2029
PT NO 10179101
MAT XENOY
PET/PBT
Here is a picture
of what I wish to glue
Any advice would be appreciated
Although I think this thing
is from a 91-92 car
it might be aftermarket.
Markings on the wing...
VT 2029
PT NO 10179101
MAT XENOY
PET/PBT
Here is a picture
of what I wish to glue
Any advice would be appreciated
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,731
Likes: 0
From: LaFayette, NY
Car: '10 Subaru Forester
Engine: 2.5 Boxer
Transmission: 4EAT
Axle/Gears: 4.44
Well, Epoxy is a good answer... but more specifically...
If it is a Fiberglass wing then Epoxy is probably the best thing to use... Elmers makes a simple to mix 2 ton epoxy that squeezes out two equal amounts of hardener and resin and it can be found at k-mart, Sears, staples, office max and any hardware store...
If it is metal then you should use JB Weld... it's basically metal epoxy... that can be found at any respectable hardware store and probably anywhere I listed above.
Be ware if the wing is made of ABS Plastic... some epoxies may eat it... contact cement would be a safe bet for that case.
If it were wood (LOL) which it isn't and never would be... but if you had a wooden component your best bet would be elmers carpenters wood glue (light brown type)... it's at least equal in strenght to most epoxies...
Better response?
-CPC
If it is a Fiberglass wing then Epoxy is probably the best thing to use... Elmers makes a simple to mix 2 ton epoxy that squeezes out two equal amounts of hardener and resin and it can be found at k-mart, Sears, staples, office max and any hardware store...
If it is metal then you should use JB Weld... it's basically metal epoxy... that can be found at any respectable hardware store and probably anywhere I listed above.
Be ware if the wing is made of ABS Plastic... some epoxies may eat it... contact cement would be a safe bet for that case.
If it were wood (LOL) which it isn't and never would be... but if you had a wooden component your best bet would be elmers carpenters wood glue (light brown type)... it's at least equal in strenght to most epoxies...
Better response?
-CPC
The wing is made out of something called xenoy
There is a site ...
http://www.urethanesupply.com
that describes xenoy as a polycarbonate
blend.
They also have a string of seemingly well
written "newsletters" describing most of the
plastics I have ever heard of and quite a few I
have not...
Of course they plug the stuff they make.
I am going to give them a try....
I am just a bit cautious due to some painful
lessons from my motorcycle days ( 80's ) :-)
Its worth 20.00 bucks for me to find out...
There is a site ...
http://www.urethanesupply.com
that describes xenoy as a polycarbonate
blend.
They also have a string of seemingly well
written "newsletters" describing most of the
plastics I have ever heard of and quite a few I
have not...
Of course they plug the stuff they make.
I am going to give them a try....
I am just a bit cautious due to some painful
lessons from my motorcycle days ( 80's ) :-)
Its worth 20.00 bucks for me to find out...
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
On plastic parts I use Devcon Plastic Welder and Plastic Welder II epoxies. The difference is the cure time. PW allows 8 minutes to position the part and PW II allows up to 20. http://www.devcon.com/devconsearchresultframe.cfm
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I ended up using a product available
at my local body shop called Duramix 4040.
It is somewhat hard to use as you must
use their injector setup that uses
a special mixing tube.
Once you start ejecting this stuff you must not
stop as it hardens in the tip in about 60seconds.
So far it seems to harden roughly like
a thick POR 15.
at my local body shop called Duramix 4040.
It is somewhat hard to use as you must
use their injector setup that uses
a special mixing tube.
Once you start ejecting this stuff you must not
stop as it hardens in the tip in about 60seconds.
So far it seems to harden roughly like
a thick POR 15.
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