So, here's the deal as far as I can tell:

GM spot welds all the inner plates that the bolts attach to, they cannot be moved. This goes for the striker as well, its location is permanent unless you want to do some drilling. The door is welded to the hinges, so forget adjusting that. Basically, it seems like theres no adjustments at all. Is that right? Sure looks that way.

My problem is, the door is dragging the striker and gfx. The bushings do not appear to be worn, as I cannot see any play in there whatsoever. I might just throw new bushings in there in hopes it will raise the door up, both front and rear. Otherwise... anyone tried drilling the spot welds before to move the door up? I need like 1/8".

Thanks.

 

I think there was a post about this somewhere.
They did say there was no adjustment but the bushings usually fix it. Try a search here.

Don>>>

P.S. I think I know the new ride.

 

I think there was a post about this somewhere.
They did say there was no adjustment but the bushings usually fix it.

Don>>>

 

they all do this after time. replace the lower pin & hinge it can be removed ,or at least mine is able,. and all will be well.

 

Even though the door hinges appear to have no exessive play at all. It is there! This is the reason that the door hits the striker and ground effects.

This question has been addressed many times. If you replace the UPPER and lower door hinge pins and bushings. It will correct this problem.

We are all cursed with this chronic, stupid GM problem.

Check out www.3rdgensolutions.com

 

There are no spot welds on the car body side of the hinges. You can loosen the bolts and move them around, even take the doors off if you want to.

Definitely renew the hinge pins first though. A little wear there goes a long way in door sagging.

Also, the striker is adjustable; it unscrews with a big Torx, and there's a nut plate captivated in a cage that can move around. Again, do the hinge pins first, don't try to compensate for wasted parts by adjusting others that were fine when the hinges were new.

Good luck!!

 

Not on my car. The plates on the back sides of the panels that the bolts screw into are all welded in place, they do not move... at all. I even found the welds The striker side to add insult to injury the hole the striker bolt goes through is barely big enough for the bolt, let alone enough to give it space to move.

I really dont think bushings is going to help, there is absolutely no visible movement in the hinges at all. The fender is off, so its really easy to see too. If anything, something is bent out of shape... which is not surprising since I've had this problem since the door was smashed and fixed. Not to mention this is the passenger side door. The driver side door I have zero problems with, and I know its never been touched. You'd think since theres almost never anyone going in and out the passenger door it would wear out last. I'm about to take a BFH to it.

 

As I have some experience with these doors and hinges, I will attempt to answer this question.

The door hinges are each attached to the body with three bolts. Two bolt holes on each door are elongated to allow for adjustment the third hole is not. This hole is precisely located and drilled at the factory, using a special fixture.

It is often necessary to enlarge this third hole to 7/16" when transferring a donor door etc. I have seen this done many times. So if you enlarge the third hole in the upper hinge first, this should give you the extra adjustment you need.

I hope I have been able to answer this question.
Thanx ANDYZ28