Recently purchased an '88 IROC-Zconvertible. On the console, between the power window buttons, is another button. The graphics are worn off of all 3 buttons. According to the owner's manual (still in the console) it is a Rear Hatch release Button. However, tracing the wiring, it goes to a solenoid that controls the top tonneau cover on the passenger side. Is this right?

 

Hi,

The middle switch on the center console is indeed activating a solenoid for the tonneau lid. Same looking type of switch on the
coupes activates the hatch release. Do you hear the solenoid releasing when you press the switch?

Steve

 

Yes, it actually works, just didn't seem to make much sense to release the tonneau "remotely" when you still have to go to the passenger side to release the seat back so you can get to the tonneau releases on BOTH sides.......

 

I don't understand. When I hit the tonneau release button, my entire cover raises from its perch and goes verticle. It releases both sides.

 

Same here, I hit the switch and it opens up, releases both sides... the "manual" pull straps are if your battery dies.

 

Those cables are for emergency back-up use only. Many owners aren't even aware of them. They are to be used only in case the tonneau release doesn't work for some reason. The tonneau release should pop the solenoids on both sides allowing the tonneau to raise up. If your solenoids are both working, but failing to release, they may need adjustment. Remeber that the stock wiring requires that the parking brake be set (manual tranny), tranny in Park (auto) or engine off (either tranny). This is a safety measure to prevent popping the tonneau accidentally while driving. The fuse is labeled "LID" in the fuse block. The relay for it is directly below the center console. Good luck, Lon.

 

WHOA!!!!!!!! I DID NOT KNOW THAT EXSISTED.....HOLY CRAP....I had a coupe and it released the hatch.....and i pull mine and nothing happens....i need to go figure out what is wrong and fix that....

 

so i go out there and first replace the switch...had a spare from the back car....now i hear the realay clicking below the console....tear that out b/c i can in like 2 min and replace that with a spare just for the hell of it...no difference except this one clicks a little quieter.....so i go back to the driver side solenoid and do some various testing....there is continuty(spelling) between the wire going to the solenoid and the body...uh oh...short somewhere....so i decide to test the solenoid...get a spare 12V batt and hook up two wire.....*click click*....YES it works...the switch works and the relay works....just need to find that short...

 

finding that short is going to be fun

 

ASC did not run the wires with the factory...them seem to take a direct route to the center console....so i pulled up the carpet a little....stuck my hand under...ther is sitting water under there WTF?!!!!! it is not rusted through put i think it is time to pull the seats and the centeral console and the rear seats and pull the carpet and see whats up and get that water out and not let it back in......and how in the hell do i get that auto shifter **** off....i pulled that damned pin.

 

The square auto shift ***** have a small c-clip on the forward side of the ****. Use a small flat bladed screwdriver to pull it out. The **** will then slip off. If the fuse is blowing you are looking for a short. Otherwise you will have an open. Check for continuity of the wiring with a multimeter. Lon

 

if you pulled the pin in the front, the shifter should pop right up

 

the fuse is fine and i did test it with a multimeter....when i touch one prob to the red wire that goes to the driver's side solenoid and one to the body it beeps...

 

ok got the auto **** off and the upper console out and the driver seat out....workn on the back seats...then i am peeling back and drying out the rug and isulation and sanding out and paint the little bit of rust that is under there.

 

By "front" I am referring to the side of the know facing the front of the car. Which would actually be the backside of the ****. It is best if you put the shifter into first gear so you can see the clip the best. Ignore my prior instrctions if your car has the older style round ****. Lon

 

i got it off.....i beat its *** with a hammer....remember 5 spd converstion.....and the auto is toast ne way...lol....plus it was pretty beat ne way.....lets me get some frusration out....and yeah i had that pin on the "front/back/north/south upside down over backwards" side of the **** off.

 

Well, guess it only makes sense that it would open BOTH side of the tonneau. Bought the car from a used car dealer last saturday. The top is less than a year old and the engine has less than 200 miles on it (replaced a 305 TPI with a 350 TPI). When I first started looking at it, the button didn't do anything. I mentioned it to the dealership owner and he had his 'mechanic' take a look at it and he 'discovered' the solenoid on the passenger side and got it working...apparently didn't look any further..he thought only the one side should work since it was 'opposite' the drivers side.

Thanks for the info......

 

so you got it working?

 

No, not yet. The car is currently back at the dealer. They are working on the engine overheating (at idle..not under speed). AND they are trying to get it to pass the new Texas State emissions test. Keeps failing on hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide. Hope I can get it tomorrow (Saturday - one week after I purchased it)...as does my 16 year old son I bought it for.....

Spent enough money for it that they are making sure it all runs right.....I figure ONCE they get the emissions done and the cooling issue resolved, I'd take care of the other little things...like this solenoid. Thanks again.

 

Three suggestions regarding the overheating issue. 1) Check for debris between the a/c condenser and radiator. Trash bags, leaves, etc. often collect there. 2) The black plastic air deflector piece below the radiator MUST be there and in good shape. If it is missing or badly folded from curb crunches the car WILL overheat. 3) Add Water Wetter by Redline Oil Co. to the radiator fluid. It makes the coolant more effecient in carrying away the heat. It is a clear bottle with pink contents available at all major Auto Parts stores. I am not a fan of manually wiring the fans to turn on. Lon

 

Ok so i am waiting for the carpet and insulation to dry out....that was ALOT of water under there....lol....one more day should do it. Then i get to sand off the rust and paint the floor, then chase down this wire....well the wire for the driverside goes over to the passenger side and then dissapears.....oh boy here we go...lol....

 

Time to bring this one up again...

Got my car back from the dealer....finally. They put in a new 3 core copper radiator, new Temp Control Sensor for Temp guage. Doesn't get hot and boil over anymore.

Damn thing STILL failed the new Texas emissions test though.... CO at 15mph reads 1.21 can't be above .86 ppm

But back to the topic. Finally got to look at why the driver's side solenoid doen't work.....it's not there. Seems someone in a previous life of the vehicle removed it entirely..including the linkage to the tonneau release. Question????? Where can I buy one fairly cheaply?????


TIA :hail: