I checked the hinge bushings and there's no up and down movement in them with the door open in any position but they still rub pretty bad so I was wondering if SFC would help.
The doors don't seem to be misaligned since the seams are all straight and they're not hitting the striker pin to low or anything.

any ideas or suggestions?
I tried doing a search but didn't find any answers

Thanks,
Jeff

 

do you mean that the door is sagging and scraping on the door jam on the bottom?
ifso then it's the upper hinge pin/bushing that would be your problem. when the door is open lift it up from the edge and you'll see the play in the upper hinge.

to find the fix for this... do a search on door sag. there was somebody on the board that had a upper pin/bushing machined that he sells for i believe $65 that'll fix the problem.

 

Yeah, they rub the ground effects pretty bad, the drivers side is almost scraped down to raw plastic. I did try lifting up on the door, there was o play there, that's why it's bugging my. I've seen a few with the sagging doors and that really doesn't seem to be my problem.

I'll double check the bushings tomorrow when I get it back from the tint shop though.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

double check on the play in the top hinge.

sit in the car and have somebody lift up on the far end of the door. you'll most surely see the top hing move about 1/4 in. in the bushing.

 

A worn out UPPER dor hinge is the most common reason for a sagging door. Especially one that is worn to the point that they rub against the ground effects.

Thanx,ANDYZ28

 

yeah, what he said.

BTW. he's the one that had the piece made for the upper hinge. go to the link in his sig.
before i get my car painted i fully intend on getting one of those for my drivers door.:lala:

 

I've replaced both the upper and lower bushings (6.00 pep boys) on my drivers side car door. Maybe we didn't know what we were doing but getting that door back on totally sucked!!!
Good luck

 

If there sagging now, and if you think that SFC's will help, consider that when you weld those SFC's on you will basically setting everything into place...

chances are your upper strap needs to be replaced...

John

 

I guess it's probably the bushing, I checked it again last night , there's a little play, not much but probably enough.

 

The problem on the pontiacs is that the cheap urethane plastic warps and lifts. It's not anything that sfcs will fix.

On a camaro, well, that might be different.

 

Actually, I think to produce the T/A parts was more expensive. You would need twice the mold to make it. GM probably put the urithane on the top of the line T/A and not the Camaro because when you hit something with the hard rigid fiberglass your 95% garunteed to break something, but with the urithane, it was more likely to bump back.

UNFORTUNATELY, your right, the urithane over time will warp but the fiberglas is less likely too. I guess its a catch 22...

John

 

You replaced the UPPER door hinge, and Lower door hinge bushings for $6.00 from Pep Boys?

Thanx,ANDYZ28

 

QUESTION....MY 88 HAS THAT SAGGIN PROBLEM BUT ITS NOT THE PIN I HAD BOUGHT IT FROM GM AND CHANGED IT I LATER DISCOVERED ITS THE HINGE ITSELF...IT GETS WORSE...THE UPPER HINGE ON MY CAR IS WELDED TO THE BODY,ANYONE ELSE'S HINGE IS THE SAME AS MINES?..THIS MECHANIC TOLD ME THAT LATER F BODY'S HAD THE UPPER HINGES BOLTED TO THE BODY NOT WELDED LIKE MINES...ANYONE ?

 

nope everybodys was welded.

with the hinge set that you ordered you have to remove the door, cut off the upper hinge, weld on the new one, reinstall the door and align it.

a real PITA

 

Got the bushings from the help section at Pep Boys, they were just a couple of bucks. I had a friend put them on.
So, yes, just a couple bucks!

 

 

All '82-'92 Camaro's and Firebird's (3rd generation) have door hinges that are welded to the door, and bolted to the body. '93 and later (4th generation) are bolted to both the door and the body. They are not interchangeable between 3rd and 4th generations.

I have been dealing with these hinges for a couple of years now. The LOWER door hinge can usually be repaired with readily available replacement pin & bushings. It is a laborious, but simple process.

The UPPER door hinge is not so easy. It is a one piece design, and no provision has been made to replace just the pins (it has two) or bushings. If the UPPER door hinge wears out, then the only thing you can do is to actually cut, grind, chizel, and cuss at it to remove it. Then drill 4 new holes, which by-the-way overlap the holes you drilled to remove it. You ever try to drill hafl of a hole? Finally you bolt on the replacement (GM) hinge with four 5/16" bolts, and reinstall the door.

I have done this job twice, and it sucks.

So I came up with a better idea. I have developed a patented replacement UPPER door hinge pin & bushing set to replace the original ones. It is simple to install, and you do not have to cut your hinge from the door. Thereby retaining your original door fit and alignment. I have sold many, many of these around the world. Including many to Thirdgen.org members. A search on this board will provide adequate testimony to my product.

We now also offer a greaseable version.

Thanx,ANDYZ28 www.3rdgensolutions.com

 

ANDY HAS THE BEST IDEA FOR THE BUSHINGS..NICE