ever since i have owned my car, i have had a hell of a time pulling the key out of the trunk lock key hole. it gets stuck and i need a 4x4 pickup to pull it out. I took apart the rear and sprayed some wd-40 in it and some silicon spray as well. it helped a little, but now its back to normal.

the driver side lock just started doing it too, but intead of it not coming out easy, it wont turn to lock/unlock the door. so i have to unlock the passenger side and then hit the unlock button, then walk around to get in.

is there an easy fix to this, or just get a new lock set?

 

Try sprayingthat lock cylinder as well. If that doesn't work, you might as well get a whole new set for the doors and trunk (and t-tops if you have them). i've had that problem a number of times, with the passenger side door. I even had the ignition cylinder stuck in the ON position, and i had to disconnect the distributor wires to shut off the car!

 

ok, does GM have lock sets for our cars? i really dont want to take out a loan to fix this. I do have t-tops but ill just keep the key for it that way I won't have to pay the $25 to have them re-keyed.

 

You'll need something a little more permanent to keep the tumblers free. wd-40 and that crappy spray silicone are just band-aid fixes (both dry/evaporate quickly). There are a few ways of going about it. Graphite power is one way. A non-detergent oil works quite well or, a lithium grease. If the lock is that bad, I'd take it out and clean it out with brake cleaner to get all the old crusty crap broken up/out first. Then go about lubing it. Just some ideas borrowed from fixing commercial door locks. White lithuim spray also works very well on moving parts inside the door to keep them from getting 'sticky'.

 

ok, does it take much to get the lock cylinder out? obviously the door panel has to come off, is there much to it?

 

There is just a clip holding the lock cyl in, similar to the one that holds the front brake line in place. Undo the lock rod, pop the clip and the cyl plops out. The hatch lock is the same for a manual lock, I'm not certain about the motorized latch tho. It would be easy to determine how it comes out though, once the trim is off.

 

ok thanx for the help deadbird. do you know if GM sells the 3 piece lock set?

 

I can't say they do for sure but, I would guess they do since the locks are pretty common. I do know Autozone (probably any major chain store really) used to (might not anymore) sell 3 piece lock/key sets for a pretty reasonable price.

 

I had the same problem on my passenger lock. I took it apart and everything it worked for awhile but then went right back. I just got a new set from auto it wasnt much i think under 20. I was repainting my car neway and they come painted so it looked better.Then keyless entry and havnt touched them since

 

I had a bad ignition cylinder - brother got one for me at Car Quest I think - wasn't much, like $40 - since it was ignition it had the resistor thing in it, so I imagine that a regular cylinder is cheaper.

 

yea my key was getting stuck in my driver side door so i sprayed that deicer stuff thats for that and its never done it since and my ignition got stuck with key in it...SO i went to autozone got new ignition crome one for 9.99..black ones where 14.99 dont ask..lol easy fixen! i had to also buy a steering wheel poller to though that was like 20 bucks..eek..
adam

 

need help
have a problem with door and trunk locks on 97 VW Golf--the motorized locks don't work well--got some info that suggeted taking the tumblers out and soaking them in WD40, then moving them back and forth until loose--them putting some silicone on before replacing. Is this a good idea??? Question is i do not have the manual and have no idea where to even begin to take the tumblers out--it just said to take off the door handles and take out the tumblers.

 

Just did the door locks on my 86. They are easy and zone has them for like $15

 

katiejay, most cars require that the interior door panel be removed, however it is done on your VW (pop off or unscrew interior trim, look under the pull handle for a couple more bolts, look for covers behind the handle and behind light lenses, etc), to get at whatever holds the door handle/lock on. Problem probably isn't the locks but the latches themselves need to be removed, cleaned, lubed, and reinstalled, since you've said that even the power locks don't work well. And use white lithium grease, not silicone, when reinstalling. May be messy, but will last longer than silicone.

As for the hatch lock, most of the locks I've seen in the junkyards are all riveted to the body...

Classic Industries and YearOne sell full (doors, hatch, rear glove box, t-tops) lock sets for our cars. Kind of pricey, though.