Stupid question from a guy that works in a bodyshop
Stupid question from a guy that works in a bodyshop
Yes, i could ask the guys i work with but i would ike to see a step by step instructional on how to get small dings out, do i HAVE to pull them first, can i just sand then putty, then sand?? what type of putty do i use, fiberglass, polyester? both? an help is appreciated, ill try to attach some pics any help is greatly appreciated thanx, Joe, by the way, this car wa sold to me for $400 by my sis-in law with 185k miles running strong, but has alot of those types of dings in just about every panel lol, think i got a good deal? how much is it to rebuild my 3.1 v6 91 birds engine around?
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Those dings are small enough that you can use glaze putty to fix them. You will need to rough them up a bit with some sandpaper, make sure all dirt and wax are gone, hit each ding with glaze putty, block sand, primer, block sand, and paint. Dings will be gone.
Glaze putty is just like semi-paste form primer. Those dings are not deep enough to need bondo, IMHO.
Troy
So Cal
Glaze putty is just like semi-paste form primer. Those dings are not deep enough to need bondo, IMHO.
Troy
So Cal
Hail Damage...
Call the local Paintless dent removal guy. He should be able to make those smooth out like they were never there. Then if you paint it, you'll never have to worry about the sanding marks or the filler showing through. You also won't have to worry about the filler cracking down the road someday.
Call the local Paintless dent removal guy. He should be able to make those smooth out like they were never there. Then if you paint it, you'll never have to worry about the sanding marks or the filler showing through. You also won't have to worry about the filler cracking down the road someday.
thats right, never thought of that, we got a guy that comes to our shop all the time, ill have to get an estimate and see what happens, although i do plan to get it painted. thanks all for your help, Joe
and actually the damage was caused by it being parked under a nut tree, big friggin nuts too, found some around the engine bay, almost look like chestnuts
and actually the damage was caused by it being parked under a nut tree, big friggin nuts too, found some around the engine bay, almost look like chestnuts
Last edited by brooklynyte; Apr 19, 2004 at 12:24 AM.
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Originally posted by brooklynyte
...and actually the damage was caused by it being parked under a nut tree, big friggin nuts too, found some around the engine bay, almost look like chestnuts
...and actually the damage was caused by it being parked under a nut tree, big friggin nuts too, found some around the engine bay, almost look like chestnuts

As said above, I would take it for paintless dent repair.
i work at a body shop so if i fudged it up i could always take it there, but the paintless dent removal sounds like the best idea, like someone said, i dont have to worry about anything crackin down the line
unless your paint has already cracked, then it has to be repainted, and im not so sure about how good paintless jobs turnout, you might always notice something wrong when u look at it in the glare.
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if u work at a shop, how do you know so little about the business, i work at a body shop and im only 19, and i do frame pulling and everything that everyone else does, and yeah, dent master will remove those, but it will be easier to putty them up and prime the whole car since your gonna get it painted...
well, i would know a little more but i wasnt hired to do "everything that everyone else does" i was hired to detail cars and dont have too much extra time to talk to the non-english speakng body guys, its not that i dont know how, i just dont know what type of putty/grit paper.
Originally posted by jaredjames
unless your paint has already cracked, then it has to be repainted, and im not so sure about how good paintless jobs turnout, you might always notice something wrong when u look at it in the glare.
unless your paint has already cracked, then it has to be repainted, and im not so sure about how good paintless jobs turnout, you might always notice something wrong when u look at it in the glare.
I removed a grapefruit size dent from the rear 1/4 of a 4th gen and it's almost not noticable. The only reason it is, is because the person never brought the car back to me so I could finish. It got dark and I couldn't see to finish at the time.
PDR is supposed to be a cheaper alternative to body shops. If the quality isn't there, then what's the point?!
hey good to know, but if it was the cheaper way to go and had the same results why don't we see more PDR shops than body/ paint and refinish shops?
and don't say it's because people are damagin parts too badly that can't be fixed by paintless.
and don't say it's because people are damagin parts too badly that can't be fixed by paintless.
Paintless Dent Removal is a fairly new trade in the US. It's about 15 years old. There are still alot of people that have never heard of it. The body shops do body work, but smaller dings and dents can be done by PDR. The technique to accomplish this is hard to master. Body work can be easier.
Removing the dent with PDR requires the metal to be reshaped and massaged back into it's original shape. Body shops can slap on the mud, smooth it out, sand and paint.
The one major benefit to PDR is the panel still maintains it original paint and matching or blending panels is not an issue.
There is a crossover point where it's cheaper to do body work than PDR. It all depends on the extent of the damage.
In this case, the whole car can be fixed for around $800. Slap on the bondo/filler, sand, add in labor and paint and $800 covers not much in a body shop. I leave the body shop work to the professionals, but dings and dents can be done quicker and cheaper.
Removing the dent with PDR requires the metal to be reshaped and massaged back into it's original shape. Body shops can slap on the mud, smooth it out, sand and paint.
The one major benefit to PDR is the panel still maintains it original paint and matching or blending panels is not an issue.
There is a crossover point where it's cheaper to do body work than PDR. It all depends on the extent of the damage.
In this case, the whole car can be fixed for around $800. Slap on the bondo/filler, sand, add in labor and paint and $800 covers not much in a body shop. I leave the body shop work to the professionals, but dings and dents can be done quicker and cheaper.
I removed a grapefruit size dent from the rear 1/4 of a 4th gen and it's almost not noticable. The only reason it is, is because the person never brought the car back to me so I could finish. It got dark and I couldn't see to finish at the time.
And the paint never cracked?!?!?
Still if the guys paint has cracked it HAS to be repainted, otherwise water will leak inside and rust it.
If it's laquer paint which it might be this has definitely happened.
I'd like to learn paintless, im sure it's just moving the metal until it workhardens in it's original shape, and rubber blocks and such.
paintless dent repair would ONLY work if the paint has not cracked, and isn't there a problem with flaking or peeling, because the paint has flexed so much it no longer holds.
And the paint never cracked?!?!?
Still if the guys paint has cracked it HAS to be repainted, otherwise water will leak inside and rust it.
If it's laquer paint which it might be this has definitely happened.
I'd like to learn paintless, im sure it's just moving the metal until it workhardens in it's original shape, and rubber blocks and such.
paintless dent repair would ONLY work if the paint has not cracked, and isn't there a problem with flaking or peeling, because the paint has flexed so much it no longer holds.
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From: montgomery PA
Car: 90 camaro
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some times not always dry ice works to take out small dents. You just hold the dry ice on the dent until there is frost around the dent and just sit it in the sun nad the dent should pop out by its self. Do this on a nice warm sunny day. Alot of times this work very well and dry ice is cheap.
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