now i've been reading every thing i can find before painting my car next week

i need to finalize what and when.


whats first filler (polyester)(evercoat zgrip)
or
1st is epoxy primer (This is what autobodydepot said? and then filler)

(update) found that either is ok but for best finish expoxy prime first or etch and the filller then seal and prime ( reasoing is water could get into primer and cause rust under primer if a scratch should happen to get to filler)

2 2k primer

3 block with what grit 400

4 guide coat and sand again in x pattern to find highs and lows(fill with same filler evercoat z grip)

5 wet sand 600 g

how do you wash this wet sanding crud off?

5a seal

6 clean with chemical (forgot whats it called)

7 Tack rag

8 paint base coat let sit less the 6 hours (hok says 12 ok in tech) (autobody depot says 6 or less is best)

9 candy coats up to 5 let tack between coats to non stringy
no wait time between 9&10 other than tack
10 clear coats 2 or 3? let dry

how long next day?wet sand with 1500 or 2000
( how to clean)
clear coats again.

i also have not recieved my tech sheets yet they are shipping with the paint House of color candy 3 stage

thanks Jeff

 

JeffW,

Your steps are right, Kinda vague though, I don't think you'll do everytining next week. especially for the first venture into the world of autobody.
How bad is the car? Rust? damage?, someone else's paint/body work?
Take it step by step, don't rush, and you'll be ok.
Disassemble the car.
Get the metal straight, FIRST.!!! fix all chips and rust .
etch and prime,
block sand, STARTING with, AT LEAST 120 grit and a longboard, maybe 150 grit if the body work's real close.
guide coat,
re-prime, block sand AGAIN, with 220, or 240
repeat if low spots still exist
guide coat
finish prime block sand AGAIN 320 grit
guide coat
wet sand 5-or 600 grit removing ALL scratches.
seal & shoot

good luck

 

#6 would be wax & grease remover
#7 tack rag / cheese cloth [picks up lint from the rags used for the W&G remover]

paint away

I think that is one step lots of people skip. They assume its clean enough. They have washes it several times along with block sanding and skip the wax & grease remover.

A guy at a limo place went nuts when I touched his primer job once. I was just checking out his smooth job and he seamed clueless for the need to wax n grease remove before painting as long as you don't touch it. And was upset that now he had to???

on a $40,000 limo I would not skip any steps.

Course if your doing a maco job [I know you ain't] then its really mute. even a dirty garage / drive way paint job will only last 3-4 years no matter how well prepped.

 

thanks kevin and gumby you guys are a wealth of knowledge.

i did place a vugue list for just that reason it is easy for me to research each step that way. Kevin not sure if you've seen the pic the car is striped of all unneeded parts int ect..sanded entire car with 80g down to bare and oem primer, front end is all new parts fenders hood bumper covers. all iffy area for prep and sanding att his point is the doors both had some prior repairs. Im sure the long board will show me the way to get these smooth as it is a very important long arae that can reuin the paint job. Or ill never be able to show a side pic when done

Thank again

 

Yeah,
Our saying around here is; "The longboard never lies!!"
These cars are great for showing off the lines and reflections.
When you're doing the long bodyline between the wheels, attack it from one side at a time (either the top or bottom) and your guide coat will...well, ...uh, guide you.