A few body questions
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Manchester, NH
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 191ci 6cyl
Transmission: 700r4
A few body questions
Where can I get an aftermarket front bumper cover?
Is there any place I can get a section of the rear quarter panel to weld it besides a junkyard? If not would forming the outter edge of the wheel well in tiger hair fiber glass be a good solution to much rust?
Is there any easier way to take rust off other then sanding by hand? I've been using a dremel with 80grit but I don't think I'll be able to get everything... I don't have a compressor so sand blasting is outta the question.
Also is there any easy way to get the trim off the rear hatch so I can paint it and put it back on?
Is there any place I can get a section of the rear quarter panel to weld it besides a junkyard? If not would forming the outter edge of the wheel well in tiger hair fiber glass be a good solution to much rust?
Is there any easier way to take rust off other then sanding by hand? I've been using a dremel with 80grit but I don't think I'll be able to get everything... I don't have a compressor so sand blasting is outta the question.
Also is there any easy way to get the trim off the rear hatch so I can paint it and put it back on?
Last edited by Nocturnall; Sep 21, 2004 at 02:41 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 692
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From: North Carolina
Car: 1984 TRANS AM AERO (PAINT SO DEEP
Engine: 305 CARBED
Transmission: 700 R-4/Vette Servo mod
classic industries
shermans
See if you can get your hands on a 90 degree angle grinder... small and very handy. (sorry, operates on air though) Has many different kinds of discs and wheels to grind up the steel.
You still won't get all the rust out of the pits, needs to be blasted.
Got any buds that will float you a compressor for a weekend?
Your fiberglass solution is a short term repair only.
shermans
Is there any easier way to take rust off other then sanding by hand? I've been using a dremel with 80grit but I don't think I'll be able to get everything... I don't have a compressor so sand blasting is outta the question.
You still won't get all the rust out of the pits, needs to be blasted.
Got any buds that will float you a compressor for a weekend?
Your fiberglass solution is a short term repair only.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,985
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From: Massachusetts
Car: candy blue 85 z28
Engine: 305 tpi LB9
Transmission: 700r4 crazy beefed up one
Axle/Gears: ones with teeth
rear window trim is not a good idea to take off best to paint it in place. electric grinder would help you kinda like a mikita, there are 100's of cool attachments for em, i got a air blue point and i do all kinds of stuff with it grinded like it was designed for but then i got cutoff wheels from home depot and cut off suspension parts with it very nice, and the spark show was impressive too
Jeff
Jeff
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From: Woodstock, GA
Car: 1987 Trans Am
If the car is mobile, you could take it to a professional blaster...shouldn't cost very much. I would do this, see what you have (it will "find" whatever rust you have, and leave holes, so you'll be sure to cut out enough of the old rusty metal). I wouldn't use fiberglass of any kind to repair rust on an exterior surface; cut a patch panel (new aftermarket or a piece from an original) and MIG it in (if you don't have access to a MIG, you can at least prep the area, trim the new panel, and take it to a bodyshop...that way the labor charge will be minimal).
Keystone is a good source of aftermarket sheetmetal and bumper covers for thirdgens; they have distributors all over the country. Unique Industries is another.
Leave the rear hatch trim on; its nearly imposible to get off intact. Clean it up the best you can with a wire wheel on a drill, or sandpaper, prime and paint.
Keystone is a good source of aftermarket sheetmetal and bumper covers for thirdgens; they have distributors all over the country. Unique Industries is another.
Leave the rear hatch trim on; its nearly imposible to get off intact. Clean it up the best you can with a wire wheel on a drill, or sandpaper, prime and paint.
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