have two issues with locks on my rs.

the rear trunk lock will not unlatch the trunk. you turn the key like normal and nothing happens.... no battery in car but it should still unlock right?

2nd issue:

the ignition is almost impossible to get the key out once it's in.

ex: once you turn the key forward to starting position you cannot turn it back without pressing the key in very hard while pulling it back. same goes for turning the key forward once you first insert the key, you have to press the assembly in hard and turn it back then you can turn it forward to start position.

the car has been sitting for 2 years so naturally some issues are abound.... any ideas what these problems could be and how to fix them?

 

I know I couldn't get my trunk open after it was sitting for awhile without the car being on ( no engine but power to everything ). After I turned it on, the motor started working and I can open it with car off now.

 

hmm...

what about the steering column lock. anyone have ideas why it would be hanging up and worse case senario what am i looking at to replace?

 

For the second issue, that's a classic sign of a bad ignition lock cylinder. But, try putting some graphite lubricant in the lock cylinder and trunk lock, and see if that makes it any better. I had a similar problem with mine (key would move to run position, but wouldn't go back at all), and I had to replace it. It's not really hard to replace, you just need two special tools (you can buy of rent them at any auto parts store)and it'll cost less than $100 for a new ignition lock cylinder from the dealer, including 2 new keys. Does your RS have VATS? Just curious.

If you want a step-by-step of how to replace it, just let me know, I have a little write-up on it. And, e-mail or PM Trickster for service manual info. and pictures. It makes it a whole lot easier that way.

 

$100... the car barely cost me that.



if you have it i'd appreciate it.... i'll try the graphite. thanks for the suggestion and yes it has vats.

 

The two special tools your going to need is a steering wheel puller and a lock ring compressor, A.K.A. retaining ring compressor. I know that the following sounds like a lot, but it can be done in 2 hours if you know what your doing (I didn't at first )Here's the write-up:


First, disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the SIR fuse from the fusebox. Take the knee bolster off (the two plastic pieces under the steering column). They are held in by 5 torx screws. Then, look near the bottom of the steering column and find a large yellow wire. There are two yellow connectors that hold it together, disconnect them by removing the small green piece that holds them together and prying. Now your airbag is disabled. Now you can remove the airbag by unbolt the 4 torx bolts behind the steering wheel (the top left hand bolt is going to be tricky, FYI). Slowly take the airbag out to where you can see behind it and remove the yellow connector from the airbag and the horn button. Make sure to lay the airbag up while it's out of the car just in case it deploys. Then remove the nut that holds the steering wheel on and use a steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel.

Now you will see the airbag coil. Use the lock plate compressor to push it back and remove the snap ring with your snap ring pliers. Slowly pry the coil out and let it hang by the wires. Now use the lock plate compressor again to compress the lock plate and remove another snap ring. Remove the lock plate and cancelling cam. Remove the hazard light switch (1 torx screw in the middle of the switch). Now, move the turn signal to the right turn signal position and you should see and remove 4 torx screws holding the mechanism in (and 1 more torx screw that holds the mechanism to the turn signal arm). Move the turn signal mechanism out of way and you should now see part of the lock cylinder.

To remove the lock cylinder, disconnect the the two white wires wrapped in an orange loom with black connectors under the steering column, remove the buzzer switch next to the lock cylinder (it's held in with 1 torx screw and is white plastic with two metal contacts on it and can be removed with needle nose pliers after the screw is out), and then put the key to the RUN position and remove the lock bolt which is directly under the center of the lock cylinder. Now slowly remove the ignition lock cylinder by pulling it out while routing the 2 white wires with the orange loom carefully through the steering column and out (NOTE: Tie a small piece of string around the old wires as you pull it out, so that you can use the string to guide the new wires through the steering column when installing the new one). And the installation is pretty much the reverse.


One note though, make sure you mark the locations of the steering wheel, airbag coil, lock plate, and cancelling cam, so they can be installed as the same way they came out. Make sure you don't drop any bolts in the steering column (or the whole column has to come out). And you should also readjust the airbag coil while it's out (to do this, depress the yellow button on the back of the coil and turn it in the direction of the arrow on the unit until it stops, and then turn it the opposite direction 2 1/2 times and you're done). I may have left out some details, or you may have some more questions, so just post or PM me, I will try my best to help you out.

 

my old 84 Z28 had about the same simptoms Kandied....it eventually pooped out and the ignition was locked...I couldn't even turn the key. So....I just replaced the steering column....bought a used steering column and installed it in a few hours

 

If im getting rid of all the air bag stuff and vats would it hurt to use a older column.

 

Nice car Kandied91z
About the trunk lock. It sounds like the lock itself or the cable is begining to seize up. It could be from the cold weather and the gunk/moisture built up over time. I would try to lubicate it as Ben suggested or replace it if you have to. If it's from the cold then I would suggest WD-40 instead. It will displace the moisture inside the lock if it's there. I've used this on a few cars when the locks would freeze up with the cold weather. Check your cable from the lock to the trunk latch as well. Once the trunk lock fails you won't be able to reach it from the inside. Then you'll have to pop it out with a screwdriver. I had to pop mine open because the previous owner changed the door locks and forgot to change the hatch lock. It didn't have a remote to open it with. (They also pried on the rear hatch and bent the lower part of the hatch so it wouldn't seal out the water any longer. )