JB WELD as body filler?
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Car: 1984 Trans Am 15th anniversary
Engine: L69
Transmission: 700r
Axle/Gears: 3:73
JB WELD as body filler?
I have heard storys of people useing JB weld to fix holes in hoods and other areas apperatly it stands up to a beating.Anyone tried it?
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From: Bowdon, GA.
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
you'll have to "back plate" the hole, then use alot of JB weld to fill in the hole.
JB weld would not be my pick, it's too thin, too soupy.
To fill a hole in w/o a welder, I have always taped a pc. of sheet metal to the back side of the hole, then filled with bondo. Then once done and hard you can remove the tape
Never had one crack or fall out on me yet, and i filled many many holes over the years doing such things as shaving side mirrors off, truck side trim, antt. holes, etc
JB weld would not be my pick, it's too thin, too soupy.
To fill a hole in w/o a welder, I have always taped a pc. of sheet metal to the back side of the hole, then filled with bondo. Then once done and hard you can remove the tape
Never had one crack or fall out on me yet, and i filled many many holes over the years doing such things as shaving side mirrors off, truck side trim, antt. holes, etc
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From: So. Ohio
Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: L98 350
Transmission: 700r4
I've used the JB weld to fill holes and "weld" in patch panels now and then. Pretty good stuff for about anything I've tried it on, but it gets pretty expensive to use as filler. Seems to hold paint ok after sanding it. Guess it depends on what you're doing with it but a back up panel is always a good idea even for smaller holes.
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From: edgemere, md
Car: 87 GMC Sierra
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto
i didnt want to start a new thread, not trying to highjack it. i have a hole about 7inch round in my floor pan and i am on a budget, what can i use to fix it
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
My Auto Body Repair instructor tells me that over half of the fixes he made at his old shop were someone's attempt at doing it themselves. Don't use JB Weld. Just don't. Even if it works... why? Why not just do it the right way the first time?
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Joined: Jan 2002
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Car: 1984 Trans Am 15th anniversary
Engine: L69
Transmission: 700r
Axle/Gears: 3:73
Originally posted by iroc87matt
i didnt want to start a new thread, not trying to highjack it. i have a hole about 7inch round in my floor pan and i am on a budget, what can i use to fix it
i didnt want to start a new thread, not trying to highjack it. i have a hole about 7inch round in my floor pan and i am on a budget, what can i use to fix it
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Car: 1984 Trans Am 15th anniversary
Engine: L69
Transmission: 700r
Axle/Gears: 3:73
Originally posted by iroc87matt
thanks, i know it sounds ghetto but, would a stop sign work or sheet metal?
thanks, i know it sounds ghetto but, would a stop sign work or sheet metal?
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Bakersfield, under a ton of dust...
Car: A few
Engine: All Eights
Transmission: All kinds
Sounds like someone found a stop sign "just laying around"
On topic: I used JB to eliminate the antenna on the Mustang. I formed a piece of sheetmetal underneath the hole, taped it into place, and JB'ed the repair area (allowing some JB to get under the repair panel of course). It sanded smooth and with few pinholes, which I filled before shooting the car. With paint. heh
Going on two years with no repair visible. It's as if the car never had an antenna. And with the level of suck attained by local radio, I don't miss it...
K
On topic: I used JB to eliminate the antenna on the Mustang. I formed a piece of sheetmetal underneath the hole, taped it into place, and JB'ed the repair area (allowing some JB to get under the repair panel of course). It sanded smooth and with few pinholes, which I filled before shooting the car. With paint. heh
Going on two years with no repair visible. It's as if the car never had an antenna. And with the level of suck attained by local radio, I don't miss it...
K
Originally posted by iroc87matt
thanks, i know it sounds ghetto but, would a stop sign work or sheet metal?
thanks, i know it sounds ghetto but, would a stop sign work or sheet metal?
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Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Tomball, TX
Car: 89 TTA
Engine: Turbo 3.8
Transmission: 200R4
Fiberglass or body filler is probably better to use than JB Weld for a good fix.
Just curious, but does anyone use lead? Seems that no one does that anymore.
Just curious, but does anyone use lead? Seems that no one does that anymore.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by soulbounder
Fiberglass or body filler is probably better to use than JB Weld for a good fix.
Just curious, but does anyone use lead? Seems that no one does that anymore.
Fiberglass or body filler is probably better to use than JB Weld for a good fix.
Just curious, but does anyone use lead? Seems that no one does that anymore.
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From: Sicklerville,NJ
Car: 87 Buick Grand National
Engine: 3.8 SFI Intercooled Turbo
Transmission: 200R4 3000 Stall
hey guys- about the lead- my senior year of highschool i had work release with no job
so i had nothing else better to do but work on my 70 chevelle wagon. it needed some filler and i had lead sticks laying around and my toarch. it took a couple weeks to get it down to where i could do it and make is astheticaly pleasing- but it worked and thats a year ago and its still there 100% solid. its all about patience. dont rush it and dont heat the metal up too fast and too much. ill try and get some befor after pics if i can find them. after leading- use a flap disk and it makes it look like its not even there.
so i had nothing else better to do but work on my 70 chevelle wagon. it needed some filler and i had lead sticks laying around and my toarch. it took a couple weeks to get it down to where i could do it and make is astheticaly pleasing- but it worked and thats a year ago and its still there 100% solid. its all about patience. dont rush it and dont heat the metal up too fast and too much. ill try and get some befor after pics if i can find them. after leading- use a flap disk and it makes it look like its not even there. I also vote for fiberglass.
If anyone is using lead, just be aware that it is poison and not just in state of california.
matt, if you use up that stop sign, there are 4 or 5 around here that are just pissing me off. I wouldn't mind if someone made real use out of them.
If anyone is using lead, just be aware that it is poison and not just in state of california.
matt, if you use up that stop sign, there are 4 or 5 around here that are just pissing me off. I wouldn't mind if someone made real use out of them.
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From: edgemere, md
Car: 87 GMC Sierra
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto
Originally posted by VILeninDM
matt, if you use up that stop sign, there are 4 or 5 around here that are just pissing me off. I wouldn't mind if someone made real use out of them.
i didnt steal it, my dad used it on his first car
matt, if you use up that stop sign, there are 4 or 5 around here that are just pissing me off. I wouldn't mind if someone made real use out of them.
i didnt steal it, my dad used it on his first car
[i]
matt, if you use up that stop sign, there are 4 or 5 around here that are just pissing me off. I wouldn't mind if someone made real use out of them.
[/B]
matt, if you use up that stop sign, there are 4 or 5 around here that are just pissing me off. I wouldn't mind if someone made real use out of them.
[/B]
what do you mean? a real use? you mean sitting at points where your car would really get going isnt a real use??
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: So. Ohio
Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: L98 350
Transmission: 700r4
Now if we could find a use for those worthless red lights all over the place. Nothing worse than sitting at a red light at 1 AM with not a car in sight except the cop that's waiting for me to run the light.
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Several years ago, I filled a section of floor panel (probably 10 in by 2) with POR-15 filler--which can be molded, sanded, drilled--along with their mesh. Still in place and apparently holding well. Highly recommended. You might consider checking their web site for more info.
JamesC
JamesC
Last edited by JamesC; Jan 12, 2005 at 10:22 AM.
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From: St. Louis, MO
Car: 1986 IROC
Engine: 305ci DEAD FINALLY! 350 almost ready to go in!
Transmission: 700R4/Coming out TH-350 going in!
Originally posted by Gnarley_Boarder
yeah lead seems to be a good route to go does anyone actually do it hto?
yeah lead seems to be a good route to go does anyone actually do it hto?
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
If you do use JBweld, use the quick 15min one. The regular is to sloppy n drippy. takes forever to set and will run n drip.
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From: So.west IN
Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
I have heard storys of people useing JB weld to fix holes in hoods and other areas
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...eyword=10021ZP
It's good stuff.
thanks, i know it sounds ghetto but, would a stop sign work or sheet metal?
I would try to get a piece slightly larger than the hole.
Take some avaition snips and cut off the rusted edges of the hole and cut the patch the same size but, an inch larger all the way around.
You'll need to have/get a good grade silicon (such as GE SCS1000), rivet gun and acording sized drill bit in relation to the rivets used.
Place the patch over the hole (from the topside) and drill the patch/floor around the perimeter of the patch panel (every 2" or so).
Make a mark so you know where to line the patch back up (if your forgetful like I am), take the patch up and lay a 3/8" bead (of silicone) around the hole (going over the rivet holes you drilled).
Place the patch back in place and press untill the silicone squeezes out then rivet away.
Clean up the excess silicone top & bottom side and put a little extra over the rivets to help seal water out.
Paint or undercoat as desired.
Or...
If you have a welder... make patch panel the same size as the hole. Weld patch in place. Clean weld. Paint.
Just my opinion though....
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From: north plainfield, nj
Car: 05' GTO
Engine: 6.0L
Transmission: A4
if your that despret us JB weld if not find someone to help you repair it.
i plan on doin all lead work on my car when i strip it down this spring, im goin to try and only use a thin skim of body piller on the body to just make sure i didnt miss anything.
i plan on doin all lead work on my car when i strip it down this spring, im goin to try and only use a thin skim of body piller on the body to just make sure i didnt miss anything.
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From: NOR CAL USA
Car: 89 iroc-z 5.7tpi 350,
Engine: 5.7tpi 350,
Transmission: T-56
Re: JB WELD as body filler?
Originally posted by Gnarley_Boarder
I have heard storys of people useing JB weld to fix holes in hoods and other areas apperatly it stands up to a beating.Anyone tried it?
I have heard storys of people useing JB weld to fix holes in hoods and other areas apperatly it stands up to a beating.Anyone tried it?
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