you want to use "like" metals. Thats why I was told to never use metal valve caps on TPMS wheels unless they came in with them on lol

 

Yup. You have to keep those two metals isolated.

 

the way to get around this is paint both the steel and aluminum so moisture cant get inbtween the aluminum and steel and cause it to corrode the aluminu

 

we didnt do that, we just changed the tires lol

 

Ok I've been working on lightening up my front end and little by little it's coming together. Right now I have my eye on a front disc brake kit that weighs 33.5 lbs. and that includes the four piston calipers, ceramic pads, the rotor, and the complete hub with bearings and all. My question is, how much of a weight savings is this? How much does the entire above mentioned STOCK assembly weigh?

 

Zombie thread

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...9-post391.html

I just remembered today after looking something up that I was going to share Blackenbird's spreadsheet. Here's the google doc's link:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...kE&usp=sharing

Let me know if it doesn't work. I'm not particularly interested in updating it, but if somebody wants to I'll add them as an editor or they can create their own sheet.

 

IIRC my leather one weigh 60lbs driver side and 40 pass side.

 

my 4th gen t/a power leather seats with 3rd gen tracks were 53# driver 33# passenger.

 

Here's some weight reduction, I was doing some work to the rear wheel-houses, some of the undercoating, dirt was over quarter inch thick in some places. Judging by the weight of the garbage can, I removed at least 20lbs of crap. Besy way I found to get it off was to use a slightly dulled blade in the sawzall, bend it in the middle, it started falling off in chuncks

 

Offhand anyone know the weight diff between aerowing and older 2 post spoilers

 

Finally got to weigh my cloth power seats. With the seat and the rails is 53lbs per seat!
I bought kirkey pro street alum seats and they are 15lbs with the cloth cover and without the seat rail!

Also weighed my stock rear carpet = 13lbs

The upper back seat weighs = 22lb

The lower back seat weighs 4lb/piece

Anyone know how much a stock gas tank weighs?
Any benefit to a getting a fuel cell?

 

Since I have the interior out of my car here are some weights.

Complete dash (no wires) - 26lbs


Middle console - 10lbs

Arm rests(both are 5lbs total )

Front carpet is 19lbs (have all the backing on it still)

 

Aren't there metal supports attached to the dash or are they left behind in the car? I can't remember. When I removed the dash from my camaro I remember it being rather heavy. I would have assumed more than 26lbs...

 

This is on a 1987 GTA budget bracket build we're doing. We wanted to take as much weight off without losing function of the power windows. We got the driver's side door lightening done. 15lbs saved out of the door itself. the c-channel crash bar is 12lbs by itself. i highly recommend removing it if you have door bars in your roll bar.


this is the passenger's side door, which i haven't touched yet.







here is our driver's door in the "after" state.

 

good lord matt. my door sounds hollow as it is when it closes and its all stock. i bet it sounds like kicking a can when you close it now.

lots of work, but 15 pounds a side? worth it!

did firebirds or different years get an updated crash bar? all the ones ive seen are tube. mine is tube in my car.

the one in the pass side pic looks like some kind of hat post or channel, which im sure is up there in weight over tubing.

 

Where is that excel spreadsheet? I am thinking about picking u a 92 V6 Camaro with no options or a dedicated drag/Mile car.....she needs to be very light.....2800 would be great with my 200lb ****.....

 

crash bar update was in 1988. 82-87 got the c-channel, 88-92 got the round bar. the c-channel weighs 12lbs, while the round bar is only 6. it's up to you whether it's worth the effort. my car has a 1990 door on the driver's side, and a 1987 door on the passenger's, lol, so i'll be removing them both so to make them weigh the same. it's at the end of a long winter update list for my car.

 

2800lbs with 200lb driver is going to be a stretch on a stock type suspension/stock floor board thirdgen, but not impossible. tubular chromoly everything, lexan, fiberglass, and attention to details will get it there. you must look at every part of the car and determine if things can be trimmed, drilled, removed, or replaced with something lighter. being THAT light is a lifestyle, not something you can do on accident, lol. if 200lbs is as light as you personally can get then you have a big task on your hands. i have personally lost 65lbs in my quest for being lightweight. my end goal is 3000lbs with me in the car. currently i'm 250, but hope to be 225 by the time racing season starts. i believe i can get to 3100lbs with driver this year as a result of my latest lightweight efforts.

 

Fo Sho!

185 is my fighting weight at about 9% body fat, so yeah.....lol

My 1992, no option B4C weighed 3300 with me in it, but I was 160 back then....lol

 

cool deal. i know guys who spend thousands getting weight out of the car, then completely ignore the fat guy in the driver's seat. what good is a lightweight car if you weigh 400lbs? lol!

 

finally I got to weight my car today after all winter taking some weight out....
it came at 3090# without me im 180#
I lost about 177# from last year.

 

2970lbs with out me
Stock k member, 8 point chromemoly cage racing seats factory carpet 4gal cell, S&W anti roll bar. Moser 12bolt

 

next things on the list are
*remove stock front seats for lighter ones
*remove insolation between the carpet/floor
*rear crash bar removal

 

Who's k member and rack and pinion you using?^^^

 

the k member and a-arms a good friend of mine did it, he's done like 10 or so for his customers...he has a chassis/fab shop.
the rack I got it from ebay for $74 I mounted myself and I fab the steering linkage and tie rods.
I used to have manual box...im glad I went to rp waaayyy nicer feel on the road.
between k member a-arms and rp I saved about 120lbs.

 

Thanks for the reply,
That's my next step is the bmr k member coil over,,rack and pinion,strange brakes kit.

 

did you go with the mustang rack because it was cheap? could have saved a few more pounds with a pinto setup.

 

old thread but i ask anyway. does anyone knows what 4th gen seats weigh with 3 gen sliders vs 3th gen stock seats? by the way, is the rear seat on a third the samt as a forth gen?

 

4th gen camaro cloth seats were a solid 10lbs each lighter on thirdgen tracks for me. rear seat is similar enough that it will work with little or no mods.

 

Did you use manual sliders? Is it any weight difference between 4th gen back seats compared to 3th gen? Or any difference at all? Just wondering why anyone want to change if so

 

yes they were manual sliders. no idea on the rears.

 

I removed this spare tire jack cardboard box tire rack latch motor latch rail latch rack old heavy carpet sound deadonating guessing -50lb

 

 

Necropost! My 1991 RS gutted to hell with steel hood and stock hatch weights 2780 without me and 1/4 tank of gas. With me it weights 2960.

 

Can you show a pic of your car or the scale?

I find it hard to believe that you have that weight with a steel hood.

 

i fully believe it. i'm assuming he's on a 10 bolt and has zero safety gear.

 

Thats correct lol It's a death trap and it has the stock rear end.

 

I plan to return to the scale to take a picture because i forgot but i really dont find the stock hood to be that heavy. The rear hatch tho, that thing weight a ton!

 

My stock GTA hood was 69lbs, my fiberglass hood was 39

 

My Aluminum 82-4 trans am 87-92 formula hood weighs 20-21 lbs

 

I'm building a street/strip car. No A/C, heater, PS, wipers, front sway bar, etc. Is it illegal to remove the front bumper/crash bar? Only be cruising the streets on weekends and down to local track.

 

If it is, my state owes me a few years worth of fines I suppose, even though it wouldn't be hurting anyone except for myself. I haven't had crash bars or sway bars on my daily driver in about 5 years. Or the car that's being built. As long as you're fine with the risk, I don't see the harm. I'm not having any real luck on finding any laws on the matter right now. I'll have to do some further digging.

 

It's kool! I just wanted know how many have done it. Like i said its gonna be a weekend cruiser into town and down to the track. Is it a simple unbolt and everything bolts back up no issues? I've read its like 25lbs? Old girls definitely shed some pounds lately.

 

I realize this is an old thread but I’m sure it’s always referred to. Here is the difference between a stock battery & lithium battery (18lbs)

 

I'm in the market for a new battery.. Does this battery work well? What is the lifespan of one of these things and does it charge well?

 

Just noticed it's 30AH battery.. The optima RED TOP I've got current is about 44AH - This battery has a 40AH version which is closer to the RED TOP's capacity, but damn pricey @$829! :O

 

Yes it’s very powerful and even has “jump start technology” in it. It comes with a remote control like a car key fob. If it ever dies, simply press the button and it restarts itself. I’ve only had it for a couple months but so far it’s like a reg battery, just HALF the weight. They are very pricey though, $750!

 

How is that possible (for it to just jump start itself?) Is there some backup internal battery inside that holds a charge only when needed with the button? If so, then that's an extremely cool design, but yes, pricey. Lithium batteries last about the same as lead acid ones though IIRC.

 

Yes pretty cool technology. Antigravity batteries has a video on YouTube, check it out to find more information how how it works.

 

The way I've seen it done is a super capacitor. Charge the supercap and you get about 3 to 5 seconds of crank time. The supercap is pretty much unaffected by cold weather too, so can be a handy dandy piece of equipment in winter. Another way is to have an automatic disconnect so the battery doesn't discharge below a certain state of charge.

Li-ion batteries have a waaaaaaay longer service life than flooded lead acid batteries. But they have to be treated right to get there.