I have always wondered about the exhaust myself. Especially after the wye and after the catalytic converters.

 

I read in this thread maybe that 4thgen power seats are lighter than 3rd gen non-power.

 

I've read that too... Probably by alot too. I just don't know by how much and if you need to use the 3rd gen seat tracks, with the 4th gen seats. I've heard that is the lightest seat combo.

 

I had cloth 4th gen manual seats in my car. I took them out & put in leather 4th gen power seats. The 4th gen power ones were a LOT heavier than the 4th gen manual seats. I ended up taking the power ones out & putting the manual ones back in.

I have a set of cloth 3rd gen manual sitting here & they felt heavier that the cloth 4th gen set of manual ones. But I never weighed any of them.

My understanding is that the 3rd gen seat tracks are taller than the 4th gen seat tracks & I certainly don't want my seats any taller than they have to be.

But in any case...The power 4th gen seats were heavier (me carrying) than my manual 3rd gen ones.

 

Interesting! In that case, Manual 4th gen seats with 4th gen seat track are probably the best ones to get (if my 200lbs body is lower, that lowers the CG in the car too, albeit only slightly). I'm still curious to know if the 4th gen seat tracks are heavier than the 3rd ones.

 

Im not too sure about 4th gen seat weights but I have been checking into summit racing seats. The brackets are 3lbs aluminum, the sliders are 4.5lbs steel, and the seats are 12lbs. Im assuming the cover is maybe a pound max. That 20 lbs a seat with that setup. I will be taking out my seats for the heck of it (because Im not ready to buy the new seats yet) and weigh them. My passenger is manual and my driver is full power. Both cloth. Im sure they are about 40 and 55 lbs respectively.

hellz_wings, I like where your head is man. You and I have the same ambitions, but I'm pretty sure Im going to be the lightest street legal, daily drivable car around here once Im done!

 

Got another question.... The s-10 steering box weighs 23lbs and the one stock weighs 29lbs. All the s-10 steering boxes I found were like 130 bucks and up! I only found one for 80 bucks. So heres my question, couldnt I just delete the power steering pump and all the hoses connected to it and all the brackets, yet keep my original steering box and just plug the holes where the hoses connected with bolts? (see the attached pic)

I would rather do this if it is possible and save the 80 or 130 bucks and shed that 6lbs somewhere else! So can I do this???

By the way, I spent like two hours with degreaser, a wire brush and a garden hose taking off 26 years of power steering fluid, grease, oil and dirt from these steering components so they look pretty clean in this pic!

 

Yeah, but that just sucks. A power box without power is 10 times harder to turn stopped and at slow speeds than a non power unit.

 

I would do it right and get a non-power box, actually I wouldn't remove power steering at all.. I would hate to drive the car in a low-speed area like a parking lot without PS..

 

It really is not very bad if you have the proper box. I drove my friends 69 camaro with manual steering close to the same time I was running without a power steering pump in my third gen, HUGE difference. The manual steering was very very manageable compared to the non functioning power unit. Not bad at all compared to the functioning power unit.

 

My bad it's been awhile since i've driven a non-power gm steering box.. I'm sure if you do some pushups tho it might help hehe :P

 

I love push ups!

Anyways, does anyone know of differences in the boxes? I think I read something somewhere about the 84 and below having 3 bolts up top and not being ideal, and the 85 and above having 4 bolts and it is much better for what we are trying to do here.

Any idea? Also, what would be the highest year to go with?

 

I got mine in 2005 for $50 on ebay

 

Looks nice! I found some at a junkyard, but gotta go make sure thay are manual, for $40.00 and I get a $13.00 core charge. Then pick the best looking one. Not too bad.

 

Hey Blackenedbird, I took out both seats. Heres the numbers... 1985 Z28, driver seat, cloth, power, brackets and slider, 42lbs. Passenger seat, cloth, manual, sliders and brackets, 32lbs. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks, but question....

Power & manual in the same car? I've never had power seats in a 3rd gen, didn't want it, but assumed both sides were power in a car.

I PM'd a Mod of this Forum & never got any response about putting up the Condensed list. Since I did not start this thread I cannot simply add it to the first post & if I were to add it here it would be buried 9 pages nine deep.

I think I'm just gonna start a new condensed thread referring to this one. But the Excel chart has gotten rather big for just a screen shot to show the whole thing. And I broke it up into sections to make finding items easier, in case anyone wanted to look for say....A seat weight. Just look in the Interior list. I did have to take a few liberties of defining certain parts to go in a list section rather than have 15 different lists of parts. So please....No complaints of "That doesn't fit in....." As I said, I took liberties & put it in the "best" list section that I could.

Anybody want this Excel file emailed directly? I could do that & people could ask for updated versions later whenever they wanted to check for an updated version, just not sure how fast it would really be changed much. I did just get a front pair of 89 GTA/TTA power seats today that I can weigh to add to the list.

 

ya power and manual. its the same in my 99 tahoe and my 03 aviator. I guess the driver gets to be spoiled!

anyways I would definately start a new thread and just title it something very similar.

I would like that doc emailed to me as well so I will PM you my email address...

thanks again for all the effort!

 

I finally got around to weighing my factory notchback and my original rear glass. The rear glass is 105lbs. and the factory notch w/spoiler is 85lbs.

 

WOW! thats huge ! alot of weight that sits high up.. Someone needs to make a street-able carbon fiber or fiberglass factory looking rear hatch.. I know speedglass exists right now but apparently it scratches easily.. although I never drive the thing in the rain... I wonder if it would be worth it

 

With or without spoilers & what spoilers? I already have a weight of 90 lbs for the hatch only w/no spoiler.

 

Define easily. Percy's speedglass is very scratch resistant. I was given a few pieces of their speedglass that was coated, I had to vigorously rub on it with an SOS/brillo pad to scratch it. Normal cleaning and driving with the glass wouldn't scratch it. I plan to replace my side and hatch windows with speedglass and immediately have it tinted 50% all around. I'm keeping stock glass up front though.

 

I weighd my 3rdgen power leather seats one day for giggles, 60lbs driver seat 40lbs for pass seat both with tracks. If I remember stock manual cloth is half that total.

 

That makes sense though because the glass in the windshield is actually used for structural support as well. I would love to replace the door windows with speedglass.. I need to change them anyway, they are scratched and chipped. Although I am concerned with the glass vibrating or actually sealing up properly with the weatherstripping..

As for scratching, I guess it's not going to happen unless someone scratches it on purpose. Does anyone have pics of speedglass camaros?

 

It comes in different thicknesses. Anybody happen to know off hand the thickness of stock glass windows?

 

The glass hatch weight was with the factory 3pc spoiler and the inside interior piece. The Notch weight was with the factory pedastal spoiler and 1/4" rear Lexan window installed.

 

I took out my STOCK 1987 IROC Z28 door bars last night and weighed them on a digital scale. 10.5 pounds EACH

TOTAL OF 21 pounds off the car (pretty high center of gravity too, so it will corner MUCH better)

 

You should replace those doors bars with aluminum ones if you drive it on the street just in case you get hit from the side..

 

What exactly are the doors bars. Since I plan to go to a dual door bar setup for my roll cage (Drift Spec) I'd be okay in removing these for street use. But I'm a little fuzzy on what they look like exactly. I haven't been inside my doors so I'm unsure which part these are. Thanks.

 

They are the crash-support bracing attached to the inside of the outer door skin running from front to rear.

 

to make them similar in strength, they would have to be 3 times the thickness, which defeats the purpose. leave the stock ones in or cut them out. there is no inbetween, IMO.

 

The weight savings may be negligeable, but I do believe that some weight savings could be had. This is probably only for the ultimate weight reduction third gen and as a last resort, but GM used aluminum front crash bumpers, which are 9lbs lighter than the steel versions. Why did they go to steel from aluminum? Probably a strength issue.. Although the steel one doesn't do much of anything anyway, so might as well put a lighter aluminum one just to have something in there. Aluminum will absorb some impact, although much less than steel. If you have a roll cage then a door crash bar is not necessary as the bar from the roll cage will protect the driver anyway.

 

by the time you cut the steel ones out, and figured out how to make brackets to bolt in the aluminum ones (cant weld aluminum to steel) youve wasted a whole weekend and cut up your car to save less than a pound. my car is a drag car and i havent cut my door bars out. a rollcage is primarily designed for rollovers. if you get t boned in a hard accident on the street, or plowed at the track in the door, it could get ugly if you just have a basic rollbar or 10pt cage in the car.

the aluminum supports were for the 4cyl cars. most of them also got 4.10's from the factory to help out off the line.

 

I took an aluminum bumper from a z28... and ive seen them on other z28's obviously not 4 cyl cars

 

I have one that came off a L69/auto '84 Z28 so yeah.....Not just 4-cyl cars.

 

my car has a full roll cage and is a race-only car. If I am hit in the door, i put my backup door on and keep going.
Knock on wood...

 

my 87 iroc. weight was in 3204 without me.

full dash no rear carpet. no rear seats.
no heat or a/c box. only accesory is the alt.
electric wp
stock wheels
glass t tops
and this is with the heavy ford 9inch which is approx 100 lbs atleast heavier than a 7.5inch 10 bolt
gigantic truck enegizer battery ( minimum 60lbs)
eletric driver seat. and power everything still all functioning.

after 5 pages i couldnt read anymore.

what can i do to my dash.
engine bay
wheels?
im going to add sub frames and cage so im adding weight as well.

 

If you can't read four more pages, you probably shouldn't be attempting to cut weight from your car.

 

I purchased a front aluminum crash bar on Ebay and got it for 60$. It's in great shape. There are alot of benefits to having this IMO as the weight sits so far front, which is polar weight that sits outside the wheelbase... I relocated the battery as well but removed the spare and jack so in the rear the weight remained the same or less but in the front there is 40lbs less weight because of this). I can't wait to weigh this thing when it arrives and then weigh the stock steel one to see the difference.

 

The aluminum impact bar I have is 12.25lbs without the eggcrate

 

The rubber part is interchangeable between steel or aluminum, and it's attached by rivets I believe. I think the steel stocker was 21lbs IIRC. I recall someone claiming it was 9 or 10 lbs lighter than the steel one.

 

Would be nice if the original post was updated with all the parts that have been added and weighed for a clean, quick and simple way of checking this thread. Maybe section them off as well. Interior, Exterior, Exhaust, Engine, Accessory etc. Would be easier to figure out what needs weighing as well. I heard someone ask about the stock exhaust, I have my full exhaust still minus the air tubes. So manifolds, y-pipe all the way to exhaust tips can be weighed if needed.

 

My stock formula front bumper support weighs 35lbs.
I have one on it now that weighs, 1lb.

 

That's probably not much of a "support" lol.. You fabbed a bar I presume?

 

Yup, no "real" support at all. 1" square aluminum tubing with a slight curve bent in it for the lower bumper push pins to attach.

 

I did basically the same thing to my 88. I replaced both the front AND rear crash bars with aluminum stock from the metal shop here in town. It took almost 65-70lbs off of the car. Although life will suck if I ever get in to an accident lol.

 

I put lead in my rear bumper... can you guess where I play with my car??

 

Just weighed the OEM rear carpet for a 92 Firebird. 17lbs.
Dimensions are approximately 60" x 44". Ozite Black carpet at 18oz / square yard would weigh about 2.3 lbs.

 

Also weighed the following wheel /tire combos (tire size 245/50R16).
88 Formula 16x8 w/ 50% tread Hankook Ventus HRII 50lbs
87 GTA "non-dimpled" 16x8 w/ new General Altimax HP 42lbs

 

With or without the jute padding?

 

Let's see. Lead was used for straight line stability in cars. Drag Strip? The Texas Mile?