3rd Gen Driver Manual Seat Track - 6.8lbs
4th Gen Driver Manual Seat Track - 12.0lbs
4th Gen Driver Power Seat Track - 15.0lbs

 

are the seat racks interchangable on those seats?

 

Yup.

 

bringing this one back to the top.

Last night I installed an 83 model aluminum front bumper when replacing my skin. I didnt weight the 2 bumpers because I was in a hurry, but noticable difference in picking them up. Almost direct bolt, I had to sawzall 2 small cunks of the plastic crush zone off the 83 style. Then the 91 skin just snugly fit over it.

Today I noticed I didnt seem to drag quite a much going on-off bridges.

Ac delete pully is in the mail

My old car I never weighted, but I think it would have surprised many. Wish I would have now before parting it out.
91 hardtop, v6, t5, non-lock, non-window, ac delete, smog delete, radio delete, speaker delete, srs delete(with sensors and ecm), rear spoiler delete, foam removed from front and rear section carpet, all padding stuck to body removed, part of the firewall foam cut off, aluminum drums. When I put the same rear coils in my new car, it sits about 1/2" lower due to weight.

 

Try to figur eout how I got my car to weigh so little.

 

obviously it's only the front end.

 

Nope. The whole car's on the scale. Try again.

 

Not sure what your weight started out at but 1540 kg = around 3400 lbs so you have some savings there.

 

Yes, it's in KG. Give the man a cookie..LOL. Actually, it's 3388 lbs to be exact that's with subframe connectors, and T-roof glass on, 3 amps, 2x12" subs, stock hood, full power options. No AC or smog, aluminum heads, headers.

I went to a different truck scale that splits axels so I could weigh the front & back separately. After getting the weight of both, I calculated my weight distribution to be 52.4%/47.6% which is pretty good. If I'd switch to an fiberglass hood, and relocatre the batery to the back, I'd probably get sub 52 front.

 

I did the steel bmumper aluminum bumper swap, it will shed 14 lbs!!convert your car from power steering to manual steering and you will shed 23lbs!!! that was the single biggest weight reduction alone I have done so far, and I have done alot to shed weight. hopefully my engine bay pic will turn out here and you can see how much stuff I have shed to reduce weight, and it looks really good also

 

I'm not gonna do the power steering, I take my cornors to hard, and this state is FULL of them.

Will be doing ac delete, with heater box(already got one). Just needed the pully.

Most likely will do alumn water pump, and possibly alumn heads.

May play with making custom glass hood with this damaged 83z one I snatched a few years ago.

 

Re gutted my Camaro tonight. We pulled EVERYTHING except for the dash. It's sitting with 1 drivers seat in it right now. I couldn't believe how much Jute I had missed in there, we got about 25 pounds worth of jute and the black tar sound deadener out of it. The plastic panels don't seem like they weigh alot but when you start piling them up it adds up quick. The rear hatch carpet weighs a ton and it's even stripped of its jute. My little 10in JL sub weighed a little more than I had thought as well. The jute behind the dash where the heater core lives was heavy as heck, it was absolutly soaked with coolant from the old heater core blowing out on me a while back. I haven't weighed the car yet to see what we removed but I can tell you it's sitting about an inch higher than it used to! Anyone ever noticed how darn heavy that panel under the dash is! It's probably 10 pounds alone, what did they build that thing out of iron? Anyways enough ranting for tonight I need some sleep before the sun comes up.

 

I just did what you did, pulled out about 19lbs of padding. Thats with that heavy black mat and all the padding under both sections.

My new carpet weighed 17lbs vs 20lb factory carpet. I didnt replace my rear section but your right that stuff is also heavy.

4th Gen seatbelts only use 1 retractor and i saved about 3lbs total switching to those.

All and all this weekend i yanked close to 25lbs out of my car.

I also have a 8" JL Sub in the hatch of my car and it weighs 13lbs by itself! i couldnt believe it.

Your about to go to sleep, when i just woke up and am heading out for work... Thats funny

 

Unfortunatly I just woke up here what 5 hours later. I drove the car today and it's silly fast. I remember last time I had the thing stripped out it felt super quick now that it's done again I can tell you it really does make a difference.

 

Whats the lightest stock firebird hood?

BTW

I have !air, !a/c, !jack !spare tire, !underpadding. and I plan to do a whole lot more.

 

bringing this thread back from the grave......

anybody weighed a cd player and front and back speakers? I dont listen to music very much when i am in the car and figure why not?

 

I dont know how much weight i removed but I tore out the ac heater sys. and I got to take a slug hammer to all the vents and all the guts of the sys. I smashed the blower motor and all. I only put the outside of the dash back and the controls just to give it a stock look. I tore out all emisions and cruze contorl and wiper sys. I took out the pas. seat. I took out front swaybar and put thin carpet in. It is a dragster but I want it to look somewhat stock. I have tooken all stock exhast sys out. put my much shorter lighter in inculding headers. damn thoes stock ex. man. are damn heavy compaired to the headers. I tooken the bumpers off. I just have the skins on. Probably more but cant think. Tell me if anyone knows how much more a t-tops car weighs compaired to a hard top or a conv. I searched through the forums but there is alot to go through so I may have missed it.

 

Wait you seriously took a hammer to it?? wow

 

Ya I did take a slug hammer to it. I didnt want to spend hours taking off the screws just to throw it all in the trash. So I decieded to have some fun! The bad thing was cleaning up all the small pieces.

 

yea, i took out the a/c, swapped headers in, put in aluminum heads....now the front end sits at least 1" higher than before! 'guess i'm gonna need some lowering springs! i figure i took off at least 100lbs.....

 

Whats the weight of the STOCK DOORS?

 

yea i tok a crow hammer to my a/c and heater on black friday and it was pretty fun.

 

the answer really varies alot.do the doors have power locks? power windows?power mirrors,exactly what year is the door shell.the door shells vary b/c of the impact bar that is inside of them.some of the impact bars are just bent sheet metal and some are actually tubes which of course are heavier.ground effects mounted on the door may ad some weight but very very little, not enough to make a diff imo.another thing on doors that has varied from one year to another are the door triangles. I have never weighed these up but there are distinct diff in these door parts as well.door panels and related parts also changed through out the years to, which def have an effect on the weight of the door. just alot of varibles with door weight.

 

lol I can beat you there, just dont pay any atenshion to the marked areas they are just a natural weight reduction... RUST HOLES!

 

I cleaned-up my engine bay too.....aluminum heads, headers, a/c delete, aluminum WP, etc...and afterwards the front end stuck up an extra inch and a half! Looks like i'm gonna need some lowering springs just to get the stance balanced! I'm sure at least 150 lbs. was shed......

 

The weight of stock 1989 Trans AM doors is just slightly heavier than ridiculous. I would honestly put that door at 70 pounds or so but I don't have a scale handy. Also I've been told that 90 up doors are longer than the previous model doors; I haven't verified this yet but if they are that sucks for anyone wanting to swap the 82 doors onto their 90 or newer car.

 

my 82 Trans Am WS7 305 th350:


have removed or am removing(most are removed already):

-all of the a/c components except the control panel and the gutted box(except heater core in it)

-all emissions systems parts, charcoal canister and parts, overflow tank, reservoirs, cruise control servo and parts,
-all computer and harness parts, console, sterio and speakers,
rear seats, entire rear carpeting and padding, all interior panels except door panels,
-some of the front carpeting and all padding and jute, jack/tools,
front sway bar,
-alot of the metal material from the front steel bumper support,
-front GFX and parts, dashpad,
sunvisors, headliner and related parts, armrests,
-all parking brake system parts, fender vents and bumper grilles, headlight motor assemblies, parking lamps,

plan on:
custom aluminumized dual exhaust pipes full length,
so no more cat converter and no more super heavy stock rear mufflers and super heavy thick wall split rear piping setup anymore

getting alum rear drums and alum wheels

getting lighter rotors, and possibly alum calipers and water pump as well

hopefully a lightweight battery to mount where the rear seats were

am definitely putting in lighter front seats and dumping the stock PMD's,
i plan on either later s-10 ones
or i am just going to use the '94 grand am front buckets that i have sitting here- these are manual and are VERY lightweight
i may just put only the driver side one in and call it done though

then i will go and weigh the car at the sand and gravel place near here once the exhaust is on soon,
it is ready otherwise,
virtually
it is even insured and plated - ready to drive legally

it should be pretty light plus other mods/removals that i have done/i forgot about/or that i am going to do additionally


less weight= less fuel use to a degree
and i only weigh 135 on a heay day, i cant shave anything off of myself, hmmm,

im good to go

i would have to say this car HAS to weigh under 3000 at this point, these cars are not very far past the 3000 mark in stock loaded form, so...


this car is missing alot of parts, and i mean LOTS, yet is perfectly driveable as is and thereis quite a bit more to remove yet, soon!



next step will be taking off the door panels and stripping off braces and junk from the doors and cutting some metal out of the inner quarter panels trunk area, and then putting the car on the lift and trimming extra metal from the rad support and so forth from underneath with the shears and such


heavy doors, yeah i know some doors that are heavier; 69 fairlane ones; i jut loaded up two complete ones for scrap, into the back seat area of the 85 cutlass supreme i hauled in the other day
HEAVY doors, alot thicker guage steel back then in the old days on the old school cars

yeah,,

even the 81 and older F body doors are alot heavier, noticeably, they are freaking pigs,
but all of these doors severely out weigh the doors on the 85 elky ss we are restoring,
we put brand new GM hinges on that car, the doors are actually pretty light, way lighter than i was expecting to feel



good luck

 

Wow, you're really strippin' her down! aluminum heads and headers would really take-off alot of weight too. I stripped all the emissions/AC stuff, and the computer stuff, but I also put in aluminum heads and headers...now the front end sits 1" higher than it used to! gotta go to lowering springs just to get to stock height!

 

no headlight assemblies, no parking light, removing bracing...where is this car legal, in your yard?? no overflow huh, you carry an extra bottle of water at all times in case you overheat, or would that be to much weight.you know the real trick is to make the car as comfortable as possible even after shedding as much weight as possible. you would never catch me driving or riding in a car like this. the only REAL good reason to strip a car like this is for all out professional/competition drag racing.say what you want but this is not going to be a comfortable street car.

 

Now when you say frount clip do you mean the alum or metal bumber too.??? Pics please

 

i was reading this just now, and on the first page it says that the t-tops way 16.5lbs. a piece???? they dont feel that heavy...i was thinking more like 8-10lbs. a piece. Anyone else know?

 

Anyone ever swap the "canned ham" power steering pump for one of the aluminum FWD style ones? What about R&P steering to get rid of the linkage garbage?

 

The canned ham PS pumps don't generate as much pressure because they are for Rack units. If there was one used with a regular power steering box we could consider it.

As far as fitting a rack unit onto a thirdgen, the biggest problem is the distance from the rod end to the ball joint pivot on the stock spindle. The rack units available in the world, none of them has the travel needed for a full lock to lock.

Before you get all crazy, let me tell you that there are rack kits out there for thirdgens. The thing is that they compromise the lock to lock turn in so badly that you would need a whole empty walmart parking lot to drive in a circle with the wheel turned all the way one way or another.

 

i'm not gonna list all the things i've removed since i last posted in this thread cause i can't remember what i posted and what i didn't. suffice it to say, i have an iron headed sbc in the car with sfc's and a moser 9" rearend now. car weighs 2975lbs w/o me. i'm looking to shed another 50lbs or so off the car by the beginning of racing season. i'm gonna try to get some off my person as well, lol!

 

how come your car is lighter than mine matt still have wipers, heater, defroster and radio like my street car? No 6 point MS roll bar either i'm guessing. heh.

 

um....i have wipers no 6 point though.

 

Wow this is sweet stuff. This should be a Sticky

 

I just drove my car with the manual Pinto rack on it today, it's not NEARLY as bad as your'e making it out to be. You do lose some lock to lock turning but it works out ok, you can still maneuver the car.

 

If it is of any consolation, I did come up with an idea for a CNC machinist to make a inside extension to bolt to the steering arm of the spindle to fix the problem.

Also you can run an aftermarket spindle/coil over setup made just for drag racing that fixes the problem as well.

I myself went with the compromise of a manual box, which is not lighter than a rack, takes more turns lock to lock, but gives up nothing in the turning radius.

 

I've got a bump steer kit, and a 1 off coil over setup on the car now, I really need to get pictures but I just had surgery Monday so it's kind of rough getting under the car. I'm not really sure how much turning radius I've lost yet but I made 2 pretty sharp turns going in and out of driveways and it was better than I had anticipated.

 

nice weight to save some sheetmetal from up front.
any progress or finished pictures?

 

I don't get it. are you parting this car out or is this the way you actually drive this car???

 

front seats alone probly wiegh 45 lbs each they're the heaviest thing I pulled outta my car so far. And the carpet is super heavy too.

 

3RD gen 1 pieces steel driveshaft - 15lbs
LS1 aluminum driveshaft - 12.5lbs
4TH gen two piece V6 drive shaft - 26lbs

All were weighed with yolks and U-joints.

 

People I talk to here in town don't believe me on much my car weighs and then I pull out the slip where I got it weighed. 2900lbs flat without me in it. (180lbs). Here's all that I've done.

AC delete.......everything

Heater core and system........everything

Front accessories replaced with March pulley system. (the whole March
setup weighed LESS than the stock pullies alone)

No interior. Removed the dash and everything not useful behind it.Made my own dash and door panels out off styrofoam and cheap walmart carpet.

Aluminum drums

Aluminum driveshaft

everything under the hood that wasn't needed.

I made my own bumpers bars out of aluminum from the metal shop. they collectively weigh about 20lbs.

Stock SMC hood with some weight pulled out of it. the hood weighs 22lbs.

Gta wheels and kuhmo tires.. 40lbs a piece.
Some other little things here and there but that's all I can think of off the top of my head.

 

Sorry if I missed it but how much did the heater unit weight?

 

Also what did you pull out of that SMC hood to make it weigh 22 pounds?

 

What about aluminum trans pan and diff cover? I've got a TA aluminum diff cover, but didn't weigh it compared to the stock piece.
What are the factory transmission pans made of? Seems like the aftermarket pieces would be lighter....

 

The factory pieces unfortunately are lighter, because they are made of flimsy thin sheetmetal. The TA cover is aluminum, but it is heavier to provide a little stiffening of the housing. The finned aluminum trans pan provides better cooling. So both aftermarket parts are a small amount heavier but for very acceptable reasons.

 

I've just skimmed thu this thread, but has anyone mentioned using aluminum hubs?

Also, what about replacing the side mirrors with something lighter?
I picked up a pair of ~5" round mirrors I'll be installing later from Autozone (or maybe it was Advance). Didn't buy them to save weight, but just because the stock ones stick out so far.

My car right now is at 3240, w/ 1/2 tank of gas, driver and gear.
I'm 175lbs. Goal is to get the car to sub 3000lbs dry w/o driver, 3150 loaded
I figure if I lose 25lbs myself, that'll be a good start. Next on my short list is removing the charcoal canister. So far, my list of weight savings is long but distinguished.

Still comtemplating spending money on an AL driveshaft (3-4lbs?) and bumper support (someone told me that saved them a whopping 6lbs.) I'm also hesitant to buy a 82-83 hood because I don't think it'ld go well wik my paint job Gotta have my priorities!