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por 15 temp

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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 01:45 PM
  #1  
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From: west michigan
Car: 89 RS
Engine: lo3
Transmission: 700R4 w/ B&M shift improver
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt posi
por 15 temp

Not sure if this is the right place to post this, but i need an answer real quick.

I'm painting my rear axel with black por 15 rust preventitive paint (not sure if there is any other kind but) and i'd like to do it asap, only problem is i live in michigan and the weather is well, the way it always is in michigan. Today it warmed up a little though, its prolly right around 50 degrees. I was wondering if i can paint with por 15 in this temp. I know lots of other types of paints say its gotta be a certain temp before you apply it, was wondering if this was the same way. All the instrcutions they sent me said nothing about temp, so i was just curious before i mess something up.

thanks a bunch,

-chillen
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 08:30 PM
  #2  
Sunny RS's Avatar
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From: Anoka MN
Car: 89' RS
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: slipping 700r4, soon probuilt
i believe its suposta be around 65* outside for it to adhere
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 04:56 AM
  #3  
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From: Connecticut
Car: 86 IROC w/Danko bodykit, 1988 iroc vert, 1989 k1500 pickup 6" lift and 35" tires, 2002 chevy tahoe z71
Engine: 383 stealth ram, 305 tpi, 350 tbi, 5.3l
Transmission: T56, 700r4, 700r4, 4l460
make sure you dont get that stuff on you...you will be sorry
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 05:26 AM
  #4  
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Originally posted by smokefan
make sure you dont get that stuff on you...you will be sorry
(nod) thank g-o-d for natrul oils on are hands, or that s*it would never come off, if you do get some on, itll be a good 3 to 5 days or more before it makes its way off, just wear some rubber gloves!
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 05:36 AM
  #5  
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From: Grand Island, NY
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Yes you can put on por 15 as long as it is not freezing. In fact on their web site they tout that you can apply it were regular paints you cannot. Because it cures by a chemical reaction with moisture it does not relese solvents it will work at colder temperatures. However, at colder temps it will take longer to cure.
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 05:26 PM
  #6  
john5.7 87Iroc's Avatar
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From: Pineville, NC US
Car: An '87 Italian Retard Out Cruisin'
Engine: LS1 install in progress
Transmission: 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
I emailed them months back when I was poring my floor boards, etc... about this same question. reply " Por15 is moisture cured, so with higher humidity and temperature the Por15 will dry faster. With cooler temperatures and lower humidity it will take longer to dry. Por15 should not be applied or dried in temperatures in less than 45F. Warmer temperatures are
ideal."
Too bad my POR liked to stick to my skin for a month but did't like to my metal too much. Used it on 6 seperate occasions with proper prep, followed directions to a t, and the crap is WAY less resistant to srcatches and nicks than any of the factory paint on my car
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 04:43 AM
  #7  
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From: Grand Island, NY
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Originally posted by john5.7 87Iroc
I emailed them months back when I was poring my floor boards, etc... about this same question. reply " Por15 is moisture cured, so with higher humidity and temperature the Por15 will dry faster. With cooler temperatures and lower humidity it will take longer to dry. Por15 should not be applied or dried in temperatures in less than 45F. Warmer temperatures are
ideal."
Too bad my POR liked to stick to my skin for a month but did't like to my metal too much. Used it on 6 seperate occasions with proper prep, followed directions to a t, and the crap is WAY less resistant to srcatches and nicks than any of the factory paint on my car
That is weard??? Mine you could not get off if your life depended on it!
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 01:20 PM
  #8  
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From: Manati, PR
Car: Trans Am "GTA"
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Auto
You do know that POR 15 only adheres to bare metal. So for your floor pans you should have scraped the paint or used some sort paint remover before the metal ready & POR 15.
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 04:05 PM
  #9  
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From: Pineville, NC US
Car: An '87 Italian Retard Out Cruisin'
Engine: LS1 install in progress
Transmission: 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
Originally posted by Alexcoqui
You do know that POR 15 only adheres to bare metal. So for your floor pans you should have scraped the paint or used some sort paint remover before the metal ready & POR 15.
Like I said, I DID follow the directions and every last bit of paint and primer, oil, etc...... was removed and cleaned exactly as the directions and the emails between me and POR stated. Temp was well above the 45F limit and low humidity. Used marine clean and metal ready as directions stated. Applied thin as directions stated, waited proper time and feel between coats, made sure no moisture got into can...... you get the idea, I did my research, emailed them questions I had beforehand, and followed every direction to a t. I painted 6 different things on different occasions all on metal prepped accordingly, and one on wooden speaker box. the box is the only thing painted that turned out decent but not great.

Maybe I got a bad can or 2 , but next time I will probably go with RUST BULLET or another company that I cant recall right now, Both who have great feedback on other boards, and are cheaper and dont require all the extra prep $$$$ like metal ready. STill have a 3rd small unopened can of POR15 that I will give a 3rd chance to once weather gets warmer.
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 04:18 PM
  #10  
john5.7 87Iroc's Avatar
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From: Pineville, NC US
Car: An '87 Italian Retard Out Cruisin'
Engine: LS1 install in progress
Transmission: 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
Originally posted by novass
That is weard??? Mine you could not get off if your life depended on it!
Wish I could have said the same for mine. I spent 2+ weeks HAND sanding the entire floorpan.( drill and dremel both broke the day before I started and had no $$ to buy new ones) so It just makes me mad that after all that wasted time and effort, the stuff just didn't come out right. I would have been better off leaving the original paint on. At least the paint took effort to sand off whereas a piece that I painted with por15 sanded off way too easily.
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Old Feb 16, 2005 | 04:18 PM
  #11  
john5.7 87Iroc's Avatar
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From: Pineville, NC US
Car: An '87 Italian Retard Out Cruisin'
Engine: LS1 install in progress
Transmission: 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
Originally posted by novass
That is weard??? Mine you could not get off if your life depended on it!
Wish I could have said the same for mine. I spent 2+ weeks HAND sanding the entire floorpan.( drill and dremel both broke the day before I started and had no $$ to buy new ones) so It just makes me mad that after all that wasted time and effort, the stuff just didn't come out right. I would have been better off leaving the original paint on. At least the paint took effort to sand off whereas a piece that I painted with por15 sanded off way too easily.
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 03:44 AM
  #12  
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From: west michigan
Car: 89 RS
Engine: lo3
Transmission: 700R4 w/ B&M shift improver
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt posi
well i put it on, seems to be doing alright so far. It was prolly 50* in the garage, give or take 5*. They replied with the email after i painted it, said it should be at least 50*. Judging by an earlier post where someoen said por15 emailed them back with the 45* thing apparently not even they are in agreance at a minimum temp. When i get back home (at school now) i'll let ya know how it turned out. seemed good to me though.

-chillen
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