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priming car

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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 12:10 PM
  #1  
89firebirdguy05's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Car: Firebird
Engine: 2.8
Transmission: 5spd
priming car

Im about to start the process of priming my car. I would like to kno the steps or just what type of primer to use. I dont quite know the differences between the different types of primers maybe someone could tell me.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 12:21 PM
  #2  
qytum's Avatar
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From: Manassas , V.A
Car: 92 Formula
Engine: 5.0L TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi
do you have the car down to metal? If so you will need you use an epoxy primer so that it seals. When i did my bird, i put on 2 coats which used about a 1/2 gallon. Sand the first coat, and sand the second if you plan on putting paint on now. Someone probally has a more detailed or better method out there because i have just started this painting stuff.

--Good luck!
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 01:49 PM
  #3  
carfixxer's Avatar
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From: Beaufort, S.C.
Car: 87 GN & 87 T
Engine: 3.8 V6
Transmission: 200r4
Also what color are you painting your car?
Dark color darker primer light color lighter primer,
I learned the hard way....you wont have "coverage problems" later, especially on base coat/clear coat jobs.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 01:51 PM
  #4  
89firebirdguy05's Avatar
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From: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Car: Firebird
Engine: 2.8
Transmission: 5spd
yea.i have a black car....im going to sand it down to bare metal probally. then put it in primer untill i can afford paint. I am going to repaint it black again. but the black now has like green and purple flake in it.. and i want to paint it with close to the same color flake
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 02:10 PM
  #5  
carfixxer's Avatar
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From: Beaufort, S.C.
Car: 87 GN & 87 T
Engine: 3.8 V6
Transmission: 200r4
Like gytum stated you need a special primer for bare metal.
Are you doing this with spray cans or in a booth?
You need an etching primer, dont cheap out!
they do have these in aerosol cans though, Dupicolor makes it.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 02:34 PM
  #6  
Token's Avatar
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
I really like PPG's epoxy primer (black) because you don't have to use any etch with it. Degrease the whole thing and spray two or three coats on (flash of 10 minutes). Let it cure and wetsand and block it with 400-500 then 600. Paint it from there.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 02:59 PM
  #7  
89firebirdguy05's Avatar
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From: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Car: Firebird
Engine: 2.8
Transmission: 5spd
sweet.. so how much does that black primer run from ppg? would i have to take it down to the metal? or could i just sand off the top coat to the primer? I think im goin to do parts of the car at a time.iand just do it in my garage and sand off the over spray. What do you guys think?
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 03:10 PM
  #8  
Token's Avatar
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by 89firebirdguy05
sweet.. so how much does that black primer run from ppg? would i have to take it down to the metal? or could i just sand off the top coat to the primer? I think im goin to do parts of the car at a time.iand just do it in my garage and sand off the over spray. What do you guys think?
Well the hardener contains isocyanates, so technically it's illegal to spray without a proper booth... just don't tell anyone. and wear a respirator!

you're going to want to sand it down to a good base to work off of... factory paint sucks. painted in Van Nuys with crap paint. Just block sand it all off with 80 grit then 150, and possibly 240 if you want. I think I just ended with 150, and sprayed.

You're going to want the PPG DPLF and its recommended hardener. A gallon of DPLF is about $80-90, and the hardener is another $30. Very very good stuff.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 03:21 PM
  #9  
VILeninDM's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Rochester, NY
I am reading about all this stuff myself. A good place to get info and ask for it is www.autobodystore.com. They have basics tutorial pages and a crappy bulletin board with a lot of knowledgable people on it
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 04:26 PM
  #10  
JeffW's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,985
Likes: 1
From: Massachusetts
Car: candy blue 85 z28
Engine: 305 tpi LB9
Transmission: 700r4 crazy beefed up one
Axle/Gears: ones with teeth
when i painted mine i sanded with 80 grit on a d/a. then two coats of omni epoxy primer. no need to sand before coats if done within the p sheet directions. after epoxy is when you will put on your highbuild 2k primer that will be the sandable coat that you will want to wet sand, if you need any filer put it on the epoxy without sanding the epoxy. the bond is great and the filler is protected.

now the fly in your plan.....primer does not protect the body from moisture. so if you planning on driving the car in primer you will have to strip the entire car again and do the primer over before paint. primer wil soak in moisture and pull it to the steel. not a good idea. if its sitting in a garage you can have it in primer for about forever.

if you want to see the steps i took search for "project resurection"
think there are 7 parts some were combined by the mods.

Wear the proper resipratory protection when sanding a good fiber mask made for it will protect you and when spraying use the proper mask or fresh air mask/hood. you only get one set of lungs.

take your time on the prep its the end result of the job if it sucks the paint will suck.

Jeff
Attached Thumbnails priming car-c-documents-settings-jeff  
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Old Apr 3, 2005 | 12:14 AM
  #11  
burn rubba 83's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 30
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Car: 83 camaro z-28
Engine: 355
Transmission: 4 speed auto 700 r4
all i have to say is mar-hyde 2k primer it's high build and is great stuff to me it's the best .
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