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shaved door handles

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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 06:00 PM
  #1  
TheJuggla's Avatar
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From: Andover,MN
Car: My olds 88, but soon my camaro (Not in Winter)
Engine: 305 swapping to 383
Transmission: not sure as of yet, putting in 700R4 soon
shaved door handles

I'm looking to get my door handles shaved, thants to some jerk popping out my lock, though it was before i bought the car... Anyways i have a friend that says that he can do this for me, but i want to know how hard it is and what it involves?
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 07:43 PM
  #2  
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From: MN
Car: 1986 Camaro SC (Supercool)
Engine: one composed of various metals



now that it's out of the way, it's not very hard. Just get a kit from somewhere like autoloc or vpa, the instructions may suck, but it involves a solenoid, something to hook the solenoid to the latch (cable, or hook)....some basic wiring, and the process of welding in the old holes.
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 08:21 PM
  #3  
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From: Iceland
Car: Trans Am 83 , Recaro Edition
Engine: 350 SBC
Transmission: 700-R4
I would watch out for one thing though. I hear about this guy who filled up the gaps in the door that the handles left behind with bondo or something alike. That created a big lump of bondo that would expand in heat and crack the paint. So be sure your friend is talking about welding and not putting a big lump of bondo in there and please post some pictures when you´r done because i´m considering this mod too.
Good luck mate
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 08:27 PM
  #4  
qytum's Avatar
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From: Manassas , V.A
Car: 92 Formula
Engine: 5.0L TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi
also beware that most tracks will not let you run if you have shaved handles.

As far as doing it, summit sells some good priced kits. Search for how to install
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Old Apr 30, 2005 | 01:19 AM
  #5  
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From: Hawaii
Car: 89' Firebird / 87' Formula
Engine: 3.4 / 5.0
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / 3.42
Just don't let that battery die on you...my friend had that stuff on his Honda or something...the battery died....and...well....................
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Old Apr 30, 2005 | 11:36 AM
  #6  
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From: Manassas , V.A
Car: 92 Formula
Engine: 5.0L TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi
actually since you have a hatch, you wouldn't have a problem. All you would have to do in craw through the hatch when doors won't open. Pain in the *** but at least you won't have to bust a window
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Old Apr 30, 2005 | 02:45 PM
  #7  
1989karr's Avatar
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From: Hawaii
Car: 89' Firebird / 87' Formula
Engine: 3.4 / 5.0
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / 3.42
Originally posted by qytum
actually since you have a hatch, you wouldn't have a problem. All you would have to do in craw through the hatch when doors won't open. Pain in the *** but at least you won't have to bust a window
Yup yup...thank goodness we have the hatch!...my friend had some hatchback though...and that keyhole was also shaved i think
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Old Apr 30, 2005 | 09:39 PM
  #8  
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From: South Bend, Indiana
Car: 1986 z28 and 1997 Disco
Engine: Lg4 305
Well about the bondo issue, that was a sort of crappy way to do it in the first place. Bondo is ok but you should probably cut most of that divit, leave just a little bit of the dip so that you keep some of the strength. I instead cut the entire door handle pocket out and when I welded up a piece (from the inside of the door) but the door buckled a little so I would probably leave a little of the original pocket for strength or just be very careful and slow when you do the welding. In the end we got the door all smooth and ended up using barely any filler.

I got a kit from Summit then, I think the VPA kit. It is a pretty nice kit and I cant see any problems in it yet. We did fab up our own hooks to go from the solonoid to the door lock that were beefier than the ones they give you but I've pretty happy with it. The door springs that actually do the popping of the doors do a good job also. I have got the entire system wired up yet though, we just supplied some juice to the solonoids and made sure the doors would open. If you want any pics of the VPA kit just ask, I think I have a few.
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