Chip proofing... grrrr
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 680
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From: Cleveland Ohio
Car: Formula, a big red brick.
Engine: A Ford 351 Windsor... ?
Transmission: Dodge 727
Chip proofing... grrrr
So I have some surface rust built up underneath that "Textured" chip proofing top coat - how difficult is it to sand that crap off? I was thinking it would be a 80 grit DA job, but wasn't sure....
... I'm very much a novice and newbie to body work - but do have a DA and Straight AirFile
... I'm very much a novice and newbie to body work - but do have a DA and Straight AirFile
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 680
Likes: 0
From: Cleveland Ohio
Car: Formula, a big red brick.
Engine: A Ford 351 Windsor... ?
Transmission: Dodge 727
Okay, I'll try to describe it for anyone whom hasn't seen this stuff, or refresh your memory if you have.
It is on the rear quarter panel, and the bottom half of the body line, behind the rear tire, but not on the bumper cover. It is where pebbles and stones might fly and hit if you accelerated on a gravel road. It is meant to protect the paint from chipping due to stones hitting the body. It has a rough textured appearance, much like that of 80 grit sandpaper - but colored to the body color. I've also seen truck beds done with similarf material in place of plastic liners. It''s simply meant to protect the paint.
It is on the rear quarter panel, and the bottom half of the body line, behind the rear tire, but not on the bumper cover. It is where pebbles and stones might fly and hit if you accelerated on a gravel road. It is meant to protect the paint from chipping due to stones hitting the body. It has a rough textured appearance, much like that of 80 grit sandpaper - but colored to the body color. I've also seen truck beds done with similarf material in place of plastic liners. It''s simply meant to protect the paint.
ohhhh ok, yeah I know what you're talking about now. yeah a DA should definitely do it, it'll probably gum up the disks for the first few, but I'm sure 80 grit would do the job. Just be careful of the rest of the area as it'll make quick work of paint/urethane/sheet metal
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 680
Likes: 0
From: Cleveland Ohio
Car: Formula, a big red brick.
Engine: A Ford 351 Windsor... ?
Transmission: Dodge 727
Well, due to my inexperience, what would you suggest to take the rest of the paint down to factory primer/sheet metal... 120, 160? 200?
I'm doing so minor body fill's over small corrosion divits, and repainting the whole car, so I'm going to be doing everything and I'm sure my questions may keep some busy (or just plain annoyed
)
I'm doing so minor body fill's over small corrosion divits, and repainting the whole car, so I'm going to be doing everything and I'm sure my questions may keep some busy (or just plain annoyed
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