I spent close to a year getting the hood open..thanx to members advice, I did it!!!!! As of today, the hatch won't open!!!!
This is my son's RS, and I'm tryin to put it back on the road..Hi brake lite is out!! anyway, i jumped the switch., and to my surprise I heard a relay click...Under the console??!#@%$! I can see it with a mirror, but I can't get to it...should I assume that if it clicks, it's good?? If not, what's the best way to remove the console?? The hatch has worked b4 today..The LID fuse tests OK...The key turns in the lock, but nothing happens...is this key switch actually an electric switch??? I tell ya what, this car looks good and is fun to drive, but holy crap, these things are moody!!!
Needs new brakes agin , too!!!!
Dana ..Pembroke, Ma

 

when i was at the junkyard and needed to open the rear hatch, i just turned the key and lifted. the hatch came open no problem. the cars at the junkyard had no battries so i dont think it needs electricity to open...

 

On a Camaro the hatch release releay is below the console next to the parking brake. On a Firebird it is behind the dash next to the hatch release button. Yes clicking it good. That is the relay energizing, so that tells us you have 12v to the relay. You can use the key to open the hatch. Remove the hatch surround trim panel. The hatch release solenoid is attached to the pull-down unit with a 10mm screw. Make sure that the ground wire is connected from that screw to the ground location below the pull-down unit. If not there the hatch solenoid won't energize, since it is electrically isolated from ground by the guides. Remove the 10mm screw holding on the solenoid you'll see a tab that the solenoid pulls. Spray the latch and inside the square hole with silicone or WD40 and blow off with compressed air. Test that the latch releases by pushing that tab to the left. Then ground the solenoid and test that it operates. Reassemble everything remembering to attach that ground wire.

Lon

 

Thanx for the reply...but the key turns in the lock, and the hatch won't open...Dana

 

Then either the latch is jammed or the cable that should be attached to the back of the lock cylinder isn't connected or is broken. All is not lost. Remove the rectangular hatch light. Inside you'll be able to see the 10mm screw holding on the solenoid. Remove the screw and let the solenoid drop down. In that square hole you'll see the tab to press to the left as I described previously to release the hatch. Once you've got it open, remove the hatch surround trim and investigate the problem with the hatch release solenoid.

Lon

 

have ypu tried pulling up on the hatch when you open it with the key? Maybe the motor is bad and the shocks are bad so it won't pop up ?

 

Gonna try this today......Dana

 

very common

and you'd be suprised at how many people have had this same problem only for me to walk over and open it with the key

no one ever expects the hatch to wiegh damn near 75 pounds when the shocks are bad, and they sure as hell dont expect to be lifting that much to open the trunk

so they often just assume it's not opening

 

..ya. I tried pulling up on it as I turn the key to 3 o'clock position...no movement..this is all of a sudden...it opened fine last week...

 

..hey, LONSAL, you seem to be the Big Kahuna on these hatch deals...I read in one of your posts that the Solenoid and Motor are 2 diff circuits w 2 diff fuses...like I said, the LID fuse tests good...is that the sol circ or the motor circ?? Dana

 

Hatch release solenoid is powered on the same circuit as the PDL's, horn, interior lights, power antenna (if equipped) and cigarette lighter. It is a 20 amp fuse in the #11 slot (third column from the left, third row down from top). The hatch pull-down motor is powered in Camaro by a 15 amp fuse in the #3 slot (third column from left, first row down). On Firebird it is a separate fuse next to the fuse block.

Lon