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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 12:45 PM
  #1  
arnold sandoval's Avatar
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 86 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700
door panel

Is there any way to remove the door panel with the window rolled up? The driver's side power window on my 86Z rolls down about 2 inches then stops, then does nothing but a clicking noise.
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Old Jul 2, 2005 | 11:24 AM
  #2  
Tranny's Avatar
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From: Goose Creek, SC
Car: 87 Trans Am
Engine: 434 being built
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:73
I have the same problem

I ordered a new motor for mine & am still waiting on some hints on removing it. I have a tool that prys out the plastic clips. that makes it vary easy. The clips are across the bottom & you'll need to replace them if they don't go back in tight. The top plastic rail you have to push it in toward the window & then lift up. The rail & the panel are attached together. First the bottom clips then you can work the rail.
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Old Jul 2, 2005 | 12:43 PM
  #3  
Sonix's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
It's probably the hardest thing on the car to remove. Both sides on my car are broken now. If you can roll the window down, yea, it's easier, you can wrap your hand over the top and pinch in and pull up.... Your best bet? get someone to stand on the outside of the door. and you stand on the inside and push in and up on the plastic at the top to release the top latches.... The bottom/sides take the trim remover tool (or screwdriver) and are a cinch...
Good luck.
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Old Jul 2, 2005 | 08:10 PM
  #4  
arnold sandoval's Avatar
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 86 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700
Thanks for the replies, however I am still struggling with the panel. I should mention that I've removed the panel before but that was with the window down. Now is there any way to remove the bottom panel from the top rail while they are still on the car and if so how is it done? Also, I have the whole panel loose with the exception of the top rail! Again thanks
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Old Jul 3, 2005 | 02:08 AM
  #5  
bru333's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 575
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From: Smithfield, NC
Car: 1987 Camaro SC
Engine: 2.8L MPFI (rebuilt)
Transmission: 700R4 swapped to T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open
You can't remove that top rail with the panel on the door.

Try sliding the whole thing toward the latch end of the door, that's how I got mine off.
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Old Jul 3, 2005 | 09:03 AM
  #6  
89_ho_rs's Avatar
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From: Eastern Connecticut
Car: 1989 RS Camaro
Engine: 350 Carb(soon a 400)
Transmission: 5-Speed/th350
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73
The driver's side power window rolls down about 2 inches then stops. can you get a little movement with the window? just enough to get the plastic up on one side? and then just work your way down.
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Old Jul 3, 2005 | 05:05 PM
  #7  
1982TA's Avatar
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: SBC 400
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 2.77
My window motor died one day as soon as I rolled it up. I was joking to my friend and said wouldn't it suck if it wouldn't go back down...sure enough it died.

It is a PITA to get the panel off with the window up, and I was surprised I didn't break the black panel trim. Anyway, try to get all of the clips out of the bottom of the door panel. Work your way round the bottom and up to the middle. The tricky part is trying to push the top of the door into the window. Since the window is kind of rounded it is very tricky. Start at one end and work your way across trying an upward pushing motion. I got so PO'ed that I starting hitting it as hard as I could with the ball of my hand. If you feel it is going to break just back off...with a little work you can get it off. I got mine off and it didn't break. Just remember there are I think 3 clips holding the black trim on the top of the door. I don't know if I explained this very well, but just be patient.
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Old Jul 3, 2005 | 06:52 PM
  #8  
Tranny's Avatar
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From: Goose Creek, SC
Car: 87 Trans Am
Engine: 434 being built
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:73
How did you switch motors?

I placed a request a week ago & had 38 veiws & nobody could tell me how to change the motor out. I know it has rivets & I've ordered one big enough because I can't seem to reach to replace with a nut & bolt but how about the spring & is there a technique?
Should the window be up or down or anything I should know?
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Old Jul 3, 2005 | 08:37 PM
  #9  
89_ho_rs's Avatar
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From: Eastern Connecticut
Car: 1989 RS Camaro
Engine: 350 Carb(soon a 400)
Transmission: 5-Speed/th350
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73
i read that someone on here said you can go to a pro window installer and they have the rivets and the big gun to put them in. He said he gave them like 20 bux or so and they did it. He had everything apart and all they had to do was the riviting. Just an idea.
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Old Jul 3, 2005 | 10:27 PM
  #10  
1982TA's Avatar
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: SBC 400
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 2.77
replacing rivits isn't hard. You can get a rivet gun at like Lowes or Home Depot for like 10-15 bucks. I have one, but I got it from work
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Old Jul 4, 2005 | 09:28 AM
  #11  
Tranny's Avatar
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From: Goose Creek, SC
Car: 87 Trans Am
Engine: 434 being built
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:73
To Small

The guns at Lowes & Home depot are way to small. A window repair place is a good idea. Napa has something I ordered to check out. It has an insert that go's in thats threaded so you can insert up to a 1/4 -20 bolt. It should be here tomorrow & I'll let you know how it works. I can see many other uses for it.
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Old Jul 4, 2005 | 10:11 AM
  #12  
1982TA's Avatar
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: SBC 400
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 2.77
Re: To Small

Originally posted by Tranny
The guns at Lowes & Home depot are way to small. A window repair place is a good idea. Napa has something I ordered to check out. It has an insert that go's in thats threaded so you can insert up to a 1/4 -20 bolt. It should be here tomorrow & I'll let you know how it works. I can see many other uses for it.
I don't know...I haven't bought one there since I already have one. Mine has the threaded insert and I have many different sizes that I can interchage. I figured they were the same at Home Depot from what I saw anyway.
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Old Jul 5, 2005 | 05:31 PM
  #13  
Tranny's Avatar
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From: Goose Creek, SC
Car: 87 Trans Am
Engine: 434 being built
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:73
very large...

Yea the ones I looked at had about five sizes & a wrench to change them out with but its largest size wouldn't fit the big rivet that fits the motor & door. Today I was so busy I didn't get a chance to call the window replacement shops. Maybe tomorrow...
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Old Jul 5, 2005 | 07:31 PM
  #14  
1982TA's Avatar
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: SBC 400
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 2.77
I've been meaning to change out my drivers side motor since it was stuck in the up position. I've had my door panel off for months now but anyway I had my cosole tore apart and I was putting the switches back in and as I put in the drivers side the window went down! I thought maybe the motor was good and there was just a bad connection. Well, then it wouldn't go back up. I started getting pissed because I was going to wash my car and I didn't want to store it with the window down. I was checking all the connections and they were fine so I got mad enough and hit the motor with my pliars. Sure engough it worked for me to put the windows back up. I know I have to change out the motor, but now if it gets stuck all I have to do it hit it a little and it seems to free it up
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Old Jul 6, 2005 | 04:47 PM
  #15  
Tranny's Avatar
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Goose Creek, SC
Car: 87 Trans Am
Engine: 434 being built
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:73
window repair

I called around today & all the window repair shops will replace the motors if you supply the motor. the highest cost was $75.00. To replace the scratched passenger & drivers side window"NEW"! it was $135 dollars for each side & $50.00 to change the motor out. The whole window unit has to be taken out & a hole drilled & a bolt installed because the window is under spring tension. They said it could even take a finger off! I feel this cost is not bad not having to deal with these things so I'll stick with gas motors & let them deal with this thing...

Last edited by Tranny; Jul 6, 2005 at 04:50 PM.
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Old Jul 6, 2005 | 05:58 PM
  #16  
1982TA's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: SBC 400
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 2.77
Im sure it's not that hard. There was a Tech article on here that shows how to do it step by step. Not sure if it's still here. All you have to make sure is that the regulator is locked out. Just stick a couple of screwdrivers in the regulator holes to keep the spring tension, and therefore keeping your fingers

By the way, I found the article...
Power Windows 101

Hope this helps. If you want to save money try it yourself.
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Old Jul 6, 2005 | 06:37 PM
  #17  
Tranny's Avatar
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Goose Creek, SC
Car: 87 Trans Am
Engine: 434 being built
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:73
Great help

Thank you for your help. I've posted threads & had no responces. This tech did say he would have it done to his RS by someone if it needed done again! & I have NO PATIENCE... But Thank you for your help.
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