Sand blasting ground effects.

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Aug 16, 2005 | 12:21 AM
  #1  
Is it possible to use a low pressure on a sand blaster along with soft media to media blast polyurethane parts like a bumper cover? I would think it'd be easier to hit tight curves and such, and i have a blaster handy.
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Aug 16, 2005 | 12:28 AM
  #2  
theres no issue using a sand blaster, high pressure or low pressure do not matter.

i used to work in a bumper reman shop, we sandblasted all the bumper covers with a high pressure unit, as long as you don't hold the sandblaster in 1 spot for too long it'll never cause a problem and it will give you a nice job
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Aug 16, 2005 | 12:59 AM
  #3  
Excellent, i'm working on reconditioning some polyurethane parts, didn't want to have any issues, any suggestion on media/pressure setting to start?
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Aug 16, 2005 | 01:06 AM
  #4  
medium grit sand works fine for plastic parts, pressure, crank it up to a it over half and giv'r, if thats not enough just crank it up a bit more, the worst thing that will happen is you will "burn" the plastic, that can be taken out by hand sanding with a 150 grit.


i also recommend using a 150 over the whole peice before you start fixing or painting
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Aug 16, 2005 | 01:15 AM
  #5  
Excellent, thanks for the advice
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Aug 16, 2005 | 01:17 AM
  #6  
Last thoughts, any idea how long you can blast for witha #40 pressurized blaster, harbor freight style? Just lookin for a rough time as i dont get my compressor until thursday.
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Aug 16, 2005 | 01:23 AM
  #7  
honestly couldn't tell ya, hopefulyl someone else could.

just remember, you can't really do any damage to the parts that can't be fixed so don't be worried about it too much, just take your time and do it properly
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Aug 16, 2005 | 07:31 AM
  #8  
Your blast time will really depend on the size of your compressor and the requirements of the pressure blaster. If you do you sand make sure you are wearing proper safety equipment. If you can find it, coal slag would be a good alternative and barely more expensive than sand, not to mention it has virtually no free silica. Also, this is probably common sense, but try the back portions of the parts first.
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