shaved handles
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Springfield, Oregon
Car: 85 Z28, 88 GTA, 68 Cutlass S
Engine: 305TPI X2 ;), Chevy 250
Transmission: T5, 700R4, powerslide >:(
Axle/Gears: posi, and posi w/discs :D.
shaved handles
i really want to smooth out the Z and shave my door handles. already shaved the body moldings ("trim" if you will) and i think itd look 10X sleeker to get rid of those door handles.
just wondering how i might want to do this? theyve got kits online all over the place, but what pressure kit should i get? how long will it take? (i plan on painting at the same time) and how much is it gonna set me back?
and has anyone ever had the infamous "power gone so i cant open my doors" problem?
just wondering how i might want to do this? theyve got kits online all over the place, but what pressure kit should i get? how long will it take? (i plan on painting at the same time) and how much is it gonna set me back?
and has anyone ever had the infamous "power gone so i cant open my doors" problem?
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Cheektowaga., NY, USA
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI LO3
Ok, lets see, first, welcome to the boards. Second, this topic has been discussed a billion times on here..if you use the little search button, it'll give you a way to find it. A lotta people will yell at newbs for that...figured i'd spare you some complaints...movin on..i was looking into this myself. If you can install the kit yourself, it will save you some time. Most body shops charge 50-70$/hr...they'll have to weld a plate over top of the handle hole, sand, prime, and paint. Both sides, it'll cost a little. Power gone, well, you drive a hatch back. All ya gotta do is open the trunk, and crawl through..or reach something with a hook through and slide the latch.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 852
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From: Springfield, Oregon
Car: 85 Z28, 88 GTA, 68 Cutlass S
Engine: 305TPI X2 ;), Chevy 250
Transmission: T5, 700R4, powerslide >:(
Axle/Gears: posi, and posi w/discs :D.
hey thnxs, yeah im new. sorry. *oops*
yeah, i just need to know what door poppers to get. i can weld a plate over the handle and all that body work, not a problem. i can instlal the kit also, but i just need to know what door poppers to get!
yeah, i just need to know what door poppers to get. i can weld a plate over the handle and all that body work, not a problem. i can instlal the kit also, but i just need to know what door poppers to get!
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Spicer, MN
Car: '83 Berli, '84 Berli, '84 Z28 HO
Engine: L69, LG4, L69
Transmission: TH700-R4, TH700-R4, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.08, 3.73 Posi
just a quick little bit.. why go with door poppers. if you want to be unique then do a shaved handle that actually still functions (basically have clearnaces tight enough so you barely see a line and have it set like a push button. to unlatch the door. might look interesting and you would not have to worry about if your battery went dead on you.
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From: Queens, NY
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: Custom Forged 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9" 4:11's Detroit Locker
i have the electric life kit...thats what boyd and chip and all the big guys use in their cars....i never had a problem with it...200 bux from summit...i think i have the 35 lb solenoids...dont go higher then that...youll start snappin stuff and there is no need to get anything bigger...since its only replicating you pulling the handle...
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 852
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From: Springfield, Oregon
Car: 85 Z28, 88 GTA, 68 Cutlass S
Engine: 305TPI X2 ;), Chevy 250
Transmission: T5, 700R4, powerslide >:(
Axle/Gears: posi, and posi w/discs :D.
Originally posted by Angelis83LT
just a quick little bit.. why go with door poppers. if you want to be unique then do a shaved handle that actually still functions (basically have clearnaces tight enough so you barely see a line and have it set like a push button. to unlatch the door. might look interesting and you would not have to worry about if your battery went dead on you.
just a quick little bit.. why go with door poppers. if you want to be unique then do a shaved handle that actually still functions (basically have clearnaces tight enough so you barely see a line and have it set like a push button. to unlatch the door. might look interesting and you would not have to worry about if your battery went dead on you.
you got me interested, tell me more
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Spicer, MN
Car: '83 Berli, '84 Berli, '84 Z28 HO
Engine: L69, LG4, L69
Transmission: TH700-R4, TH700-R4, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.08, 3.73 Posi
yea. sorta. never actually looked at a lambo door. But i have a lambo door kit and i wanted to shave my handles before i put it on. anyhow. I will try to draw something up of my idea.. that i have in the works on my car (extra doors and no where near finished.. my welder took a crap). But in my opinion it would work better because it unlatches the door itself with the push of the handle and then in my case it would raise up like a lambo.. all mechanical. no electric. Now on a normal car, it could work two ways. 1 u push the door handle and it unlatches the car and a poper pushes it out. or 2. You push the handle and it has a spring door on it that allows for a finger hold to pull the door open. I have designs for both... I like the sleek looks. but leaving something up to selinoids is not my favorite.. especially if your batt goes dead.. because then you are all messed up..
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From: Woodstock, GA
Car: 1987 Trans Am
A little on the shaving process:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/715283/9
And the electrical end of things, using a VPA kit and poppers from Summit:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/715283/10
Shannon (Redraif) has had her kit for nearly 5 years, with very few problems. I have basically the same kit, only mine (being newer) has a 10 function remote, so I can use it to pop the hatch, roll down the windows, etc...whatever I can think of.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/715283/9
And the electrical end of things, using a VPA kit and poppers from Summit:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/715283/10
Shannon (Redraif) has had her kit for nearly 5 years, with very few problems. I have basically the same kit, only mine (being newer) has a 10 function remote, so I can use it to pop the hatch, roll down the windows, etc...whatever I can think of.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 852
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From: Springfield, Oregon
Car: 85 Z28, 88 GTA, 68 Cutlass S
Engine: 305TPI X2 ;), Chevy 250
Transmission: T5, 700R4, powerslide >:(
Axle/Gears: posi, and posi w/discs :D.
I went to Germany this summer and saw a few cars out there...
anyway, this is the lambo style door handle, you can kind of see it in this picture, its the best ive got though.
anyway, this is the lambo style door handle, you can kind of see it in this picture, its the best ive got though.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 852
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From: Springfield, Oregon
Car: 85 Z28, 88 GTA, 68 Cutlass S
Engine: 305TPI X2 ;), Chevy 250
Transmission: T5, 700R4, powerslide >:(
Axle/Gears: posi, and posi w/discs :D.
ok so maybe i lied, i also have this pic where you can see it not being popped. i think this is what your talking about.

lt1 guy, did you do all the work yourself? how much time does the entire process take, including the wiring, welding, instalation, all that good stuff.

lt1 guy, did you do all the work yourself? how much time does the entire process take, including the wiring, welding, instalation, all that good stuff.
Last edited by purpleZ-28; Sep 8, 2005 at 07:27 PM.
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From: Woodstock, GA
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Redraif did the wiring and popper installation on both cars; it probably took a couple of hours on mine. The shaving itself I did (on my car...my dad did the welding on hers). It really doesn't take very long, but the parts you do need to spend the time on are cutting the patterns for the filler pieces (to get an exact fit, so you don't have to use weld to fill in the gaps), and cutting the actual patches. Really take your time welding them in, just putting little tacks and doing them far enough away from each other so that you don't get any warpage. As long as you don't warp the panel welding it, the rest is easy....just fill as needed, sand, and prime. I could probably do the whole shaving job, start to finish, in about three hours, not including drying time for the filler and primer. Someone who welds automotive sheetmetal more often could probably do it quicker than that.
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,121
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From: Spicer, MN
Car: '83 Berli, '84 Berli, '84 Z28 HO
Engine: L69, LG4, L69
Transmission: TH700-R4, TH700-R4, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.08, 3.73 Posi
Yea. that was sorta like what i was a thinking.. gives you that nice sleek look without dependancies on electricity.. although i will admit. the whole auto door opener would be a wonderful thing to have. I can think of a few times when my arms were full I could have used a popper to open the door lol
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 852
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, Oregon
Car: 85 Z28, 88 GTA, 68 Cutlass S
Engine: 305TPI X2 ;), Chevy 250
Transmission: T5, 700R4, powerslide >:(
Axle/Gears: posi, and posi w/discs :D.
so first i would need to install the popers. and then go ahead and shave the doors after that? sounds like a done deal to me!
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Connecticut
Car: 90 firebird
Engine: 350 5.7L
Transmission: Th-400 w/ Manual valve body
Axle/Gears: 4.10 Richmond gears
my pass. handle is missing, and drivers handle is only attached on one side. Theres not enough room to do vette handles, but those lambo ones are sick. There gonna be perfect, if i can find them under $8,000. The only downside to exotic cars...
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